Train for
Western Riding
Lesson 10
Nancy Cahill
Copyright Ó 2009
The Western
Riding Class
When your horse finally reaches the
place in her training that you are ready to show her, you need to make sure that
you set a pattern at home and work it in pieces as well as in its entirety.
You need to set your cones with extra
distance between them initially to give your horse more time to think about
changing leads one after another. This will give her a chance to be successful,
which will build her confidence. Then over time you can bring the cones closer
together until you have them the legal distance of not less than 30 or more
than 50 feet apart.
The
Line
When
you first begin to attempt the line, you may not be able to string several
changes together. This is normal. Don’t get frustrated.
Keep in mind when doing the line, one
good change leads to the next. If the
first change is not successful or well-done, then just as in the very
beginning, you need to stop and think of what went wrong. Don’t continue the line as you can expect the
next changes to be wrong.
Instead, walk back to where you started and
try again. Do not scold. When you are finally successful on that first line
change, proceed to the next. If the
second change fails, stop again and figure out where it went wrong. I don’t return to the first change as it
worked out well. I will just walk back
and give the horse several loping strides to approach the second change and
make another attempt at it. That is the
way to handle the whole line. As each
change is successful, add another.
The line changes will seem to come at
you very fast. When you were training,
there was lots of time to approach the lead change while traversing the arena.
Now the change comes about every seven or eight strides. My advice – relax
and wait for them to come to you – don’t rush.
Breath!
Cone
Strategy
Of course, you want to avoid running over
the cone. If you are showing, this is a disqualification. However, staying close to the cones does make the approach to each change much easier as
you won’t have as far to move. Keep in
mind, the line is a straight one and if you don’t try to stay as close to that
imaginary straight line as possible, you will find yourself farther and farther
from each center (between the cones) where all changes should be made.
As soon as you pass a cone in the
line, it is not necessary to move across the line immediately. Usually, there are 5 to 6 strides between the
cones in which you can work. Say you are
approaching the line on the left side of the cones. You are in your right lead.
As you pass cone #1, you must wait to begin moving over so that you don’t knock
over the cone. Keep in mind when you see
the cone go by, the back half of the horse still has to clear the cone.
As you pass the first cone, this is
stride one. On stride two, you would
begin to remove the weight from the outside (here, left side) by moving toward
the opposite side of the cone in front of you.
You are still on the left side of the cone. It is this stride that tells
the horse you are going to change leads. On stride three, you add more weight removal
as well as your elevation. Approximately on stride four (I say that because it
depends on how far apart the cones are set), you will perform the actual
change. The change and a one-stride half
pass movement will put you on the right side of the next cone.
As you are able to complete one lead
change after another, you will find that you have succeeded in doing all four
changes down the line. This is the hard part.
The lead changes that happen across
the center of the arena give you more time to approach and exit the changes.
They should be performed in the center of the arena and the horse should enter
and exit half-way between the side cones. Remember, no matter where the cones
are set in the arena, the center of the cones never changes!
The
Pole
Crossing the pole at the trot and the
lope are major parts of the Western Riding pattern. If you don’t make it across
the pole, it doesn’t matter how good your lead changes are. You will be heavily
penalized.
As you are training for the lead
change, you should also be training the horse to cross any number of poles at
the walk, trot, and lope. Although the
horse doesn’t cross the pole at a walk in this class, that is the gait at which
you start introducing the pole crossover.
I have poles all over my arena so that I can use them every day for
practice. Eventually they are crossed at
all three gaits until the horse is very comfortable and begins to see how to
adjust her stride in front of the poles.
After trotting the pole in the Western
Riding class, the horse will have a lope transition. Some of them will begin to
anticipate the departure into the lope, which is a 3 point penalty. To avoid this penalty, I actually practice by
setting the horse up to make a mistake at home. I’ll allow her to think I might
want to lope off after crossing a pole, and if she tries to, I stop and back very
slowly over the pole. You may have to do this several times to convince her
that you tell her when to lope and that she must wait.
They don’t get to make their own
decisions.
When showing green horses in Western
Riding, it is best to use a snaffle and a hand on each rein. It makes it much easier for the horse to read
your cues when you have the reins balanced.
It may take several years for the
horse to become consistent enough to perform the changes on a loose rein. This
is a high level event and one of the last ones with which a horse will become
comfortable.
The
Class
The breed
organizations that hold western riding classes are the American Quarter Horse Association,
the American Paint Horse Association, the Palomino Horse Breeders of America,
the American Buckskin Association, and the Appaloosa Horse Club of
America. Scoring and patterns for the
Western Riding are similar in all of these.
In the AQHA there are 8 approved
patterns. Cones or markers must be set
no closer than 30 feet and no farther than 50 feet. There is one pole that must
be crossed at a trot and a lope.
All three gaits must be utilized in
the pattern. The horse walks into the
arena quietly and at a designated point, begins the trot. A pole is crossed at the trot and then the
rest of the pattern is performed at the lope.
There are typically 7 or 8 changes required, except in the Green Horse
classes, where there are 5 or 6 depending on the pattern used.
The class is judged on quality of the
gaits, lead changes, manners, and disposition.
Credit is given for even cadence, smoothness of the changes, balance,
and reasonably loose reins. Scoring is based on 0-100 with 70 being average. Points per maneuver range from:
-1½
(extremely poor),
-1
(very poor),
-1/2
(poor), 0 (average),
+1/2
(good),
+1
(very good),
+1½
(excellent).
Penalties range from -1/2 to -5 with
the possibility of disqualification for reasons such as breaking the pattern
(going off course).
Using the methods you’ve studied and
given the needed time, you should achieve a quality lead change.
The more horses you get to ride and
train, the easier it will become for you.
Your end product should be a horse
that changes so easily and smoothing that it appears anyone could change leads
on her.
We both know it was just a little more
difficult to get to that level!
Assignment:
Load
a short video to YouTube, PhotoBucket or
another video hosting web site of you changing leads down the line;
send me the link to view the video.
Send
the video link to: nancy.orders@gmail.com