STABLE MANAGEMENT

By Eleanor Blazer

 

 

 

LESSON NINE

 

FEEDING HORSES

 

          A major duty when managing a stable is feeding horses.  A stable with a reputation of having skinny horses or reoccurring colic issues will not attract business nor is it a humane way to treat horses.

 

          The equine digestive system is very delicate.  The quantity and quality of feed plays a big part in the horses’ health and the success of a well run stable. The first step to providing good nutrition is to understand the unique digestive system of the horse.

         

 

THE EQUINE DIGESTIVE SYSTEM

 

          Equine lips have almost a prehensile (adapted to wrap or fold around an object) ability.  They can separate oral additives from grain, chose the tender shoots of grass and untie a lead rope. A horse's meal starts at the lips which gather feed and make it available to the teeth.

 

          The upper premolars and molars (back teeth) are set wider than the lower arcade.  This configuration keeps the teeth from meeting squarely when the horse is not chewing.  In order to make good contact the jaw must move back and forth.

 

          This side to side movement and the natural misalignment of the upper and lower teeth causes the teeth to wear at an angle. Malocclusion, a term used to shearedmolartabledescribe teeth that do not meet properly, occurs.  Points (sharp edges), ramps (excessive lower premolar height), hooks (a tooth overhangs the opposing tooth, waves (the arcade of teeth becomes uneven) and other tooth wear patterns develop.  An equine dentist or veterinarian can attempt to eliminate tooth wear problems so the horse can chew comfortably.

 

          Another unique characteristic to equine teeth is they do not grow - they erupt.  Teeth are formed soon after foaling and the entire unused tooth is stored in the dental socket until needed. 4 ½ to 5 inches of tooth lies below the gum line in a young horse.  This amount must last the horse his entire lifetime. As the exposed surface wears away it appears that the tooth is growing, but the fully formed tooth is actually being forced up from the dental socket.

 

          The equine dentist or veterinarian attempting to correct malocclusions must be careful not to become overzealous when grinding down the exposed surface.  An inexperienced operator with a power float can take years off a horse's life expectancy.

 

          Once the horse has moved the feed back to the molars he begins to chew.  The chewing action stimulates three pairs of salivary glands.  A horse will produce five to ten gallons of saliva per day.

 

          The production of saliva is very important to the digestion of feed.  Saliva contains buffers that protect the stomach from acids, and contains some enzymes that start the breakdown of carbohydrates.  Saliva moistens the feed so it is easy to swallow.

 

          Horses being fed a complete feed (grain and forage in one product) or a diet consisting of mostly pellets do not get enough chew-time.  Horses in a natural environment will graze 18-20 hours per day, producing large quantities of saliva.  Horses in confinement are lucky to get four hours of chew-time.

 

          Horses that bolt their feed may not chew feed long enough, reducing the amount of saliva produced. Several large rocks placed in the feeder will slow down the concentrate consumption and cause the horse to chew for longer periods of time.  This will also decrease the chances of choke caused when feed is not being moistened or broken down before swallowing.

 

          Providing adequate amounts of long-stem fiber (grass, hay, hay cubes or chopped hay) will aid the production of saliva.  Pelleted products will not achieve the desired result.  The product must contain particles at least three-quarters (3/4) of an inch long. 

 

          Once the horse has sorted, chewed and softened feed with saliva he swallows.  The slurry travels down the esophagus and into the stomach.

 

         The esophagus, a muscular tube about fifty inches in the average horse, leads to the stomach.

          

         A horse chokes if a foreign object blocks the esophagus.  This object may be an apple, corn cob, hay cube, a wad of improperly chewed feed or baler twine.  Horses can choke on most anything…

 

        The equine esophagus could also be blocked by a growth (tumor) or scar tissue from trauma (a previous choke episode or damage to the sensitive tissue because of a medical procedure).

 

         Symptoms of choke in horses:

 

                    • Heavy nasal discharge that contains bits of feed and white foamy saliva

                    • Excessive salivation

                    • Stretching and extending the neck

                    • Attempts to retch

                    • Inability to swallow

                    • Coughing and blowing out feed through the mouth and nose

 

 

         Call your veterinarian and remove all feed as soon as you see any of these symptoms.  Even though the horse can still breathe this is a medical emergency. Prolonged obstruction can cause scar tissue.

 

          Aspiration of fluid in to the lungs can cause pneumonia. 

 

          To prevent choke do the following:

             • Avoid large chunks of food - treats, apples, carrots

             • Avoid grass clippings

             • Avoid poor quality forage or hay (overly mature and stemmy)

             • Avoid feeding after sedation

             • Avoid leaving foreign objects within reach (remove the baler twine!)

             • Place several large rocks in the feeder if the horse bolts his feed

             • Soak the feed for senior horses, horses with poor teeth or a previous history of choke

             • Chose a feed designed to meet the nutritional needs of the horse and can be offered as gruel

              • Make sure the horse is receiving proper and regular dental care.

 

 

         After passing through the esophagus the feed now enters the stomach through a one-way entry.

 

         At the point where the esophagus and stomach join there is a very strong cardiac sphincter valve.

This valve prevents food from being regurgitated and does not allow the horse to burp.  The horse's stomach will usually rupture before this valve allows the material to be regurgitated.  A ruptured stomach will result in death.  Feed must be of the quality and quantity the horse can handle to avoid stomach distress.

 

         Once through the cardiac sphincter valve the feed arrives in the stomach. 

 

         The stomach of the horse is very small in relationship to the size of the horse.  The average horse's stomach only holds about 4 ½ gallons.  It fills fast and empties fast.  The stomach breaks feed down mechanically and chemically.

 

         The design of the equine stomach is such that a horse needs small frequent meals.  It fills quickly and empties quickly.  Feed usually only remains in the stomach for about 20 minutes.  Ulcers can result if the stomach is allowed to become empty.

 

          A horse's meal now enters the small intestine - a tube that is approximately 60 feet in length and holds about 15 gallons of material. 

 

          Most of the nutrients in the grain portion of the diet (non-structural carbohydrates) are absorbed in the small intestine.  The nutrients are broken down by chemicals secreted by the pancreas, liver and intestinal mucosa and are then absorbed through the small intestinal wall.

 

          Non-structural carbohydrates (NSC) or soluble carbs (starch and simple sugars) must be digested within the small intestine.  If large quantities of NSC's reach the large intestine colic may result. For this reason grain meals should be small and only fed if needed.  Overfeeding grain pushes the soluble carbohydrates quickly through the small intestine - allowing them to reach the large intestine before being utilized.

 

         At certain times of the year or day, and when a rain follows a drought, grass may also contain high levels of NSC's.  For more information on safely feeding horses forages visit http://safergrass.org

 

          The non-digested structural (insoluble) carbohydrates now pass from the small intestine and into the large intestine.  Any non-structural carbs not utilized in the small intestine also arrive in the hind-gut…and we hope there are not many.

 

          The total length of the large intestine is about 25 feet, but it holds approximately 30 gallons of material - twice as much as the small intestine. 

 

          A unique part of the equine large intestine is the cecum. 

 

          The cecum is a fermentation vat.  Within the cecum are microbes (bacteria and protozoa) that aid in the digestion of cellulose and fiber (structural carbohydrates).  The main source of cellulose and fiber is forage….what the horse is designed to eat and utilize.

 

          The microbes are somewhat specific as to what they digest.  A drastic change in diet or the arrival of non-structural carbohydrates disrupts the balance of bacteria and protozoa. Excessive fermentation occurs - producing lactic acid. This acidic environment kills large numbers of beneficial bacteria.  The unhealthy environment can lead to colic.  Poisonous toxins are also released into the bloodstream causing laminitis.

 

          The material not utilized within the cecum now travels into the colon. 

 

          There are some design flaws with the equine colon.

 

          The opening leading from the cecum to the large colon is only 3 to 4 centimeters...about 1 ½ inches in diameter.  This is a prime spot for blockages.

 

          The large colon folds back on itself several times.  It also has narrow passageways and blockages can occur in these areas.

 

          In addition to these problems the only thing that holds the colon in place is bulk.  So a hungry horse without access to forage and an empty colon is a prime candidate for a twisted gut (colic).

 

          The remaining material then travels into the small colon…another very narrow tube where blockages can occur.  The small colon also is free to move and can become twisted if empty.

 

          Any remaining moisture in the material is extracted; fecal balls are produced and deposited.     

 

The design of the equine digestive system requires plenty of good quality forage.

 

 

 

FORAGE

          PASTURE

          Horses are grazers. 

 

          In a perfect world horses would be free to graze, move from water source to water source, rest and graze some more.  They will graze 18 hours out of a 24-hour period.

 

          In our world they are kept in 12 by 12 stalls, fed twice a day, may have fresh clean water and allowed to exercise while the stall is being cleaned.

 

          If the horses in your care have access to pasture they will be happier than being secluded in a stall.

 

          Lesson eight discussed pasture and pasture management.

 

          As with any change in diet, horses not used to pasture or experiencing a change in forage type must be slowly introduced to the new feed.  Introducing a horse not used to fresh green grass or allowing horses on pastures during periods of rapid forage growth requires management.  Laminitis or colic can occur if the grazing is not controlled.

 

         One recommended method of adapting a horse to new or lush pasture is to feed hay prior to allowing the horse pasture access.  Then limit the grazing time to avoid digestive problems.  Over a period of 2 weeks the amount of time the horse is allowed to graze can be increased gradually.  Horses or ponies that are cresty-necked, easy keepers, or have had laminitis in the past should not be allowed to graze on lush, rapidly growing pasture.  A grazing muzzle may be used if they cannot be kept off the pasture.

 

         Observation of horses on pasture is critical.  Severe weather, flies, loss of edible forage can cause horses to spend less time grazing resulting in weight loss and health problems related to nutritional deficiencies. 

 

          HAY

          Horses prefer to be on pasture.  It is the closest thing to what is natural that we can offer them.  But, in modern times this is not possible for most horse owners.  There are many horses kept in the confinement of a stable or small lot with limited amounts of grazing opportunities.  So, we need to bring the forage to them, usually in the form of hay.

 

         Hay is grasses, legumes, or a mixture of the two that has been cut, dried (at least 80 per cent of the moisture removed), and packaged.  Cereal grains such as oats and barley may be harvested for hay.  This type of forage requires that the stems still be green and the grain in the soft dough stage for optimal nutrition.  If it is cut after it is mature the grain will fall off and the fiber left will be straw. 

 

         In order for the hay to be of good quality the forage must be of good quality.  It must be cut at the right time of maturity, processed correctly, and stored properly.

 

         As forage matures it looses nutrients.  The timing of the cutting is critical to the nutrition of the end product.  The leaves of grass contain most of the nutrients.  As the plant matures the stem grows thicker and the leaves become thinner.  The stem is made up of cells.  Lignin is a major component of the cell walls and helps support the stem.  When mature, the lignin is dead, hollow, and non-digestible.  The younger the grass plant is when harvested the more digestible the hay will be.  Grass should be harvested before the seed heads become mature.

 

         Legume leaves do not change as they mature and the stems are designed to be strong for support.  Legumes have more nutritional value when the leaf to stem ratio is high.  The nutrition available to the horse is in the leaves, not the stem.   The leaf to stem ratio decreases as the plant matures.  Once the legume plant is in full bloom the nutritional value has started to drop.

 

         When harvesting hay the goals are to process it when the nutrient value is at its highest and dry it so it will not spoil.  Hay needs to be baled when the moisture is less than 20%.  If the hay is baled at higher moisture levels it will heat, mold and the protein will decrease.  Stored wet hay can get hot enough to cause spontaneous combustion.

 

          Never feed moldy hay to a horse.

 

         The most common method of judging if the hay is dry enough to bale is by feel.  A handful of hay is pulled from under the windrow and it is bent or twisted.  The stems should be dry and brittle with no apparent moisture.  A more reliable method is the use of a moisture meter.  It is an electronic device that measures moisture in hay.

 

         The harvesting procedure is pretty much uniform across the country.  The forage is cut, conditioned, dried, and baled.  Different pieces of equipment may be used, but the ultimate goal remains the same.

 

hay_bale          Bales of hay are available in several sizes.  The most popular is the small square bales, which weigh between 30 and 70 pounds.  Most stables prefer this size, as they are easy to handle and store.

 

         Large square and large round bales, which can weigh from 500 to 2,000 pounds, are becoming more common.  They are less labor intensive to create and can be stored outside.  If stored outside up to 1/3 of the hay can be wasted.

round_bale

 

         Proper storage is critical to the nutritional value of the forage.  Moisture causes mold and overheating.  Hay should be stacked on wood.  Stacking hay on concrete or directly on the dirt floor promotes moisture absorption.  The storage area needs to be well ventilated, but not open so rain or snow comes in contact with the forage.  Restrict access to birds, rodents, and cats.  Their fecal material can contaminate the hay causing disease or make it unpalatable to the horse.

 

 

THE MOST IMPORTANT NUTRIENT – WATER

 

          The most important nutrient, water, is also the most neglected. 

 

         A horse can live several weeks without food, but will die in five to six days without water.

 

          The amount of water needed by the horse varies with circumstances.  Temperature, humidity, type of forage, age, over-all health, and activity level play a big part in water requirements.

 

           A healthy horse at rest, in a cool environment with low humidity, eating lush green grass, and not producing milk may only have a requirement of one-half gallon per one hundred pounds of body weight per day.  This means a horse weighing 1,000 pounds may only need 5 gallons of water in a 24-hour period.

 

         The performance horse or lactating broodmare may have a requirement of more than one and a half gallons per hundred pounds of body weight per day.  These horses need to replace the fluids being lost through exertion and milk production.  This 1,000 pound horse may need 15 gallons or more per day.

 

          Due to the wide range of water requirements and the importance of water to the digestive system, fresh clean water must be freely accessible.  Even a horse that has been working and is very hot should have access to water in a managed form.  Allowing a hot horse to have several swallows every five minutes while cooling out is recommended.

 

          Water consumption directly affects feed intake.  If a horse is deficient in water he will decrease the amount of feed he eats.

 

          Water is needed for digestion.  Lack of water is one of the main causes of impaction colic.  The feed in the digestive tract becomes dry and will not move through properly, resulting in a blockage and colic.

 

          The quality of water is very important.  If the horse has access to water, but he will not drink it or it is contaminated, then severe health problems can occur. 

 

          Water sources come in many forms; public water supplies, wells, ponds, streams, and run-off.

 

          Water from a public supplier is probably the safest as the system will have filtration, purification, and testing procedures are regulated and continuing. As long as there is not a breech in the line and the delivery system within the barn is clean, the water should be safe for consumption.

 

          Water from a well should be tested.  The health department or local agricultural extension agency can test water for bacteria, minerals, and pH levels.  These tests should be conducted annually.

 

          Ponds, streams, and water from run-off should not be used as the sole source of drinking water.  Fertilizers, herbicides, insecticides, bacteria, and other forms of contaminants can be present.  The water supply can dry up or become stagnant.  Blue-green algae growth in a pond can cause a type of poisoning which may result in the death of the horse.

 

          The availability of fresh clean water is one of the most important duties for which a stable manager is responsible.  Many colic episodes can be avoided. A clean, filled water container speaks volumes about the stable manager’s attention to details.

 

 

SALT

          A severe salt deficiency can cause a horse to die.

 

          Salt is an essential nutrient - the body needs it, but cannot manufacturer it.  Salt must be provided in the diet.

 

          An average sized horse (1100-pounds), at rest, needs about two ounces of salt per day.  Four - five ounces may be needed on hot days and during strenuous exercise when sweat is being produced. 

 

          Approximately six teaspoons equals one ounce. 

 

          There is some salt in commercially produced feeds.  If the product is fed according to the feeding directions an ounce of salt per day may be provided by the feed.  This is not enough salt.

 

          Salt must be provided in some form…block or loose.salt blocks 2

 

          I do not like salt blocks.  Blocks of salt were designed for cattle.  Cattle have rough tongues.  That is why many horses bite and destroy the blocks…they are trying to get the needed salt.

 

loose_salt      I recommend loose white granulated salt - it looks just like table salt.  Local feed stores will have it in 50-pound bags.  It will be more economical than the blocks.  You can also use salt from the grocery store.

 

          Horses that are salt starved must be introduced to salt slowly.  Salt poisoning is possible if salt is suddenly available.   Symptoms of salt poisoning are digestive upset and cramps.

 

          Salt is the only mineral which horses know they need.

 

          Increased consumption of salt will increase water intake.  A full salt feeder next to a fresh clean bucket of water is required in all horse areas - at all times.

 

 

GRAIN

          Feeding grain to horses can be a very dangerous practice.

 

          Horses do not have a nutritional requirement for grain!

    

          Grains contain soluble carbohydrates, which if not broken down before they reach the large intestine can cause problems.

 

          The equine digestive system is designed to utilize forage...long stem fiber (grass and hay). 

 

          The horse has a small stomach, which fills and empties fast.  He is a grazer…or trickle feeder.  Very little feed is digested in the horse's stomach.  Stomach acids simply start the feed breakdown and then pass it along.

 

          Most of digestion takes place in the small and large intestine. 

 

          The small intestine utilizes fat, the fat soluble vitamins A, D, and E, most minerals and the soluble carbohydrates and protein provided by the grain portion of the diet.  Feed passes very quickly through the small intestine and here is where the trouble can begin - if undigested soluble carbs reach the large intestine.

 

          The large intestine utilizes insoluble carbohydrates and protein from the fiber (forage) portion of the diet, but can't utilize soluble carbs.  The cecum (part of the large intestine) contains microbes which can break down the hard-to-digest long stem fiber - extracting the nutrients.

 

          We must keep the large intestine happy.  If soluble carbohydrates make it into the large intestine the microbial balance in the cecum is upset and gas colic may occur.

 

          So if soluble carbohydrates are dangerous to horses - why feed grain?   

 

          We feed our horses to provide nutrients required to maintain, grow, reproduce, heal and fuel the body.  If the forage does not meet those needs then grain or supplements must be added…or better forage offered.

 

          How do we know if a horse needs grain?  By observation.

 

          There are ten basic categories:

 

            1. Nursing foal: Creep feed should be provided, in addition to the dam’s milk.

 

            2. Young growing horses: A feed mix designed for young growing horses should be provided.

 

            3. Idle or inactive adult horses: grain will probably not be required, depending on the forage                       quality and availability.

 

            4. Working horses:

                   a. light work: grain may be needed, depending on the forage quality.

                   b. moderate work: grain may be needed, depending on the forage quality.

                   c. intense work: grain probably will be needed.

 

            5. Horse in reproduction:

                  a. breeding stallions: grain may be needed depending on body condition.

                  b. open mares or healthy mares in the first eight months of pregnancy: grain may not be                            needed, but make sure vitamins and mineral requirements are being met.

                  c. mares in the last three months of pregnancy: grain may not be                                                         needed, but make sure vitamins and mineral requirements are being met.

                  d. lactating mares: grain may be needed.  Lactation requires peak nutrition.

 

             6. Senior horses – a special feed may be required.

 

             7. Obese or easy-keepers (some ponies and draft types may be included here) No grain needed!

 

             8. Underweight horses: Grain will probably be needed.

 

             9. Horses with health issues: consult your veterinarian or equine nutritionist.

 

           10. Horses on poor quality hay, limited hay or poor forage: grain will be needed, but it would be         safer and better for the horse if plenty of better quality forage be provided.

 

 

          Know the horses under your care. 

 

          If there is an easy keeper in your stable, with no health issues and on good quality forage he will not need grain.  Free choice salt, fresh clean water and the forage is all he needs.  A vitamin/mineral supplement may be needed depending on the geographical location; for example - vitamin E and selenium.

     

          If it is decided to feed grain to a horse choose the correct feed for the age, activity level and forage being offered.  Read the feed tag and follow directions!  Feed small frequent meals in order to keep the soluble carbohydrates from being forced through to the large intestine.

 

          While reading the feeding directions, notice the amount to be fed is stated in pounds or kilograms.  Every feed room must have a scale.  Feed should be weighed and fed according to the feeding directions.

I have yet to see feeding directions that state “Feed your horse two scoops twice a day, along with two flakes of hay.”

 

          If you don’t have a scale, you need to get one.  You’ll need it for the assignment.

 

sccop on scale compressed

 

 

SUPPLEMENTS

          Supplements - the dictionary should define them as "big business for the horse industry", instead of "to provide for what is lacking".

 

          Many times supplements are used as an attempt to fix a problem quick and easy.  I have had many calls asking essentially the same question, "What can I give my horse to... calm him down…give him energy… cure his lameness… make him shiny…make him fat…make his hooves grow…?"  They are looking for the magic silver bullet, but there is none.

 

          Supplements can be vitamins, minerals, herbs, enzymes, or amino acids.  The product can be one ingredient or a combination of several. They can be natural or synthetic (produced in a laboratory)…or a combination of these.

 

          Before adding supplements to a horse's diet several steps should be taken.

 

                   1. Examine the current feed program. 

          The horse must have access to fresh clean water and free salt choice salt at all times.

          Make sure good quality forage is being provided and enough is being fed.  In most cases just increasing the hay will cure many problems (ulcers, thin horses, nervous horses, bored horses, horses that chew, horses that eat their own manure, frequent colic…the list is long).

          Determine if the concentrate being fed is the correct one for the horse's age, activity level, and current health status.  Is the product being fed according to the label…the correct amount to meet the nutritional levels desired? Does the product compliment the forage being fed?

         

• One important note.  If you are feeding a premium commercial grain product at the recommended amount, manufacturers do not recommend feeding supplements. These premium products are highly fortified and highly digestible …problems can occur with over supplementation. 

 

                   2. Is the health care program up-to-date?

               Examine the teeth.  Is the horse able to chew properly?

               Make sure an effective de-worming program is in place.

 

                   3. Observe the horse.                                                                   

               If he is in a herd situation make sure he is receiving his share of the feed.  If a horse is at the bottom of the pecking order he will be pushed to the back and not allowed to eat.

              Does he exhibit any health problems that could be related to diet…such as tying-up or laminitis?

               Is his coat healthy? Are his eyes bright and clear?  Is he carrying the desired amount of body fat? 

                  

 

          Before adding a supplement to the diet, blood tests and hair analysis may be used as an aid in searching for an answer.

         

          Make management changes before adding a supplement to the diet.

 

          Blood test results can help diagnose Cushing's disease, liver and kidney failure, infection, anemia, the presence of parasites, and many other health related problems.  

 

          Hair analysis is used to determine the mineral content of hair, which is believed to reflect the mineral content in the body over a period of time.  It has also been used to determine the presence of toxic metals in the system.

 

          Once these steps are completed and the horse given time to adjust to any changes, it may be possible a supplement is needed. Illness, stress, age, or providing a poor quality feed can warrant supplementation.  It is best to work with your veterinarian when using high doses or feeding more than one supplement.  Toxic levels and mineral imbalances can occur.

 

 

HOW TO PROVIDE THE FEED       

 

          HAY

          Visit most stables and you will notice hay racks in every corner of every stall.  Are these racks provided for the health and well-being of the horse or the convenience of the care-giver?

 

          Horses in their natural environment eat with their heads down.  This position allows nasal passages to drain and permits them to see almost 360 degrees. 

 

          Offering hay in an overhead hay rack creates health problems, and is most definitely not natural.

 

          Dust and hay seeds falling into the eyes causes irritation.  The debris is detrimental to the lungs and can lead to respiratory problems…or exacerbate an existing condition, such as heaves or COPD.

 

          Horses are prey animals and they must stay alert to avoid being eaten.  Even while in the “safety” of a stall the instinct is to survive.

 

         If the hay is placed at the back of the stall, so the horse’s hindquarters face the door, a stressful situation is created.  A horse may spend a lot of time grabbing a mouthful of hay and turning toward the front in order to face perceived danger.  Relaxation is not achieved - possibly leading to a horse that cribs and weaves.

 

         Scattering the hay around the stall simulates grazing.

 

         Instead of placing the flakes in one corner, break the flakes apart and scatter hay_on_floorthem. Burying the material under bedding can create the atmosphere of grazing.  This method of providing hay can slow a cribber or a weaver’s vice.  Looking for the hay takes some time and keeps the lips working.  Watch a horse eat and notice how the lips work to sort and gather.  Creating as close to a natural environment as possible can eliminate vices.

 

          Try this experiment.  Put hay in the hay feeder and put hay on the ground.  Notice which offering the horse chooses. 

 

          Do not place hay under the grain feeder.  Hay under the feed box will not allow the horse to use his eyes and puts the horse in a situation where he can bang his head.

 

          Observe a horse eating hay out of an overhead hay feeder.  Once hay is on the ground he will switch from the feeder to the hay on the ground.  Some horses will throw the hay out of the feeder…they know what’s natural.

 

          Horses fed hay in a dry lot or pasture should have their hay scattered.  This method of providing hay gives several benefits to the horses.

 

        Scattering the hay allows horses on the lower end of the pecking order to get their share.  dry_lot_grazing_bestScattered hay also simulates grazing as the horses move around looking for choice leaves.  Distributing the hay over a large area avoids creating the mud holes that appear around hay feeders.

 

          Outside hay feeders can be dangerous to horses.  In addition to dust and debris falling in the eyes (if the hay is overhead) horses can become entangled in the legs or framework of the feeder. 

 

          Placing hay in old tire casings can create a dangerous situation.  Overtime the steel belts and metal reinforcement fibers become exposed leading to sharp ends.  Horses have also been known to catch a fetlock on the edge and drag the tire.

 

          Horses, especially foals, can fall into low bin feeders.  These feeders are also hard to keep clean.

 

          Hay nets or bags are popular, but the high position allows debris to fall in the eyes and can create respiratory problems.  Horses often get feet entangled in hay nets.

 

          Hay bags are best for providing hay in a trailer; avoid the nets.  I recommend on long trips that you allow the horse to lower his head during rest stops so nasal passages can drain.

 

 

          GRAIN

          I also recommend the grain or commercial feed mix be offered in a low pan placed on the ground.  It is the most natural way for a horse to eat.

       

salt_water_hay

Fresh clean water, loose salt and plenty of hay.

 

       

SUPPLYING THE FEED

          It may be your job to buy the feed.  If you are managing a “for-profit” stable, this is an area that can affect the bottom line.  It is also an area that can be mismanaged and lead to long term problems.

 

          If feed prices increase, do not buy cheaper feed.  There is a reason it is cheap.  In the long run you will end up feeding more to maintain the health and fitness of the horses.  Increasing feed because it is of poor quality will lead to colic.

 

 

 

          Many stables will start to get “frugal” when feed prices go up.  Stable managers may start decreasing the amount of hay and concentrates horses are receiving in order to cut costs.  Starving horses is not the answer to economic problems.

 

          If your costs go up, you must pass it on to the clients.  This is where accurate bookkeeping is a big help.  Explain to your clients that feed costs are increasing and in order to maintain the same level of excellent care, the boarding fee must increase.  Most will understand and appreciate your care and concern.  If not, they may be at the wrong stable.

 

          In order to keep feed expenses low there are several options.  Consider buying in large quantities.  Most feed suppliers have volume discounts.  If you have hay storage, try to purchase hay when it is being harvested or buy large truckloads.  You may be able to work out a deal with a local farmer to buy all his hay and leave it stored in his barn.  A neighboring stable or group of friends may be able to buy feed together in order to take advantage of volume discounts.

 

          When buying feed concentrates (sweet feed, pellets, “grain”) be sure to keep them fresh.  Try to buy fresh feed every month during the heat and humidity of the summer.  In the winter it will keep longer.  Watch the freshness of the feeds at the feed store.  If the bags are covered in dust, shop worn and look old – refuse it.  Check the manufactured dates.  Don’t be shy – the health of the horses under your care and your reputation as a stable manager is at stake. 

 

          Click here to read an article about storing feed.

                             http://www.thewayofhorses.com/feed_storage_0708.html

 

 

          Rotate feeds.  When a new delivery of hay or grain arrives, use the old first.  Be sure to blend feed and gradually introduce any new feed to the horses over at least seven days.  This includes hay.  Every batch of hay is different from the previous batch.  It may have been harvested on a different day, from a different field or even from a different supplier.  The nutrient content will not be identical to the previous batch.  The sensitive equine digestive system must be given time to adjust to the new feed.

 

          I can guarantee, if visitors to your barn see healthy fit horses with clean filled water buckets and horses munching happily on plenty of good quality hay you will have a waiting list of new clients.

 

Click here to take the Quiz

 

 

ASSIGNMENT

1. Start with the lips, list the parts of the equine digestive system in the order feed travels.  Briefly describe what happens in each section.

 

2. Using the following steps send me a report of your findings while conducting your own dental exam.

 

a. Watch a horse eat.  Notice if he drops grain or tilts his head to the side while chewing or if he dunks his hay in the water. These are all signs of potential problems.

 

b. While standing in front of the horse - be careful he doesn't throw his head and hit you with the end of his nose....place your fingers on either side of his cheek about where his back teeth start.   Gently feel along the side of his jaw.  See of you can feel the top row and the bottom row. Go down the top row...gently palpating...notice if he seems sore when you touch a certain area.  Then do the same along the bottom row.

 

c. Lift his lips and check his front and side teeth.  Notice any chips and how they are aligned.  If he won't let you lift his lips to look at his front and side teeth you need to practice.  Notice if the gums are pink and healthy.

 

d. If you are able to reach in and pull the tongue off to the side – include in your report what is found.  If you do not know how to do this have your veterinarian or equine dentist show you.

 

         If you detect any problems you'll need to call a vet or equine dentist.  This is not a thorough exam, but it can help you decide if a more intense exam is needed.  Every horse should have their teeth examined at least once a year by someone that can check the back ones - those are the teeth that develop points, which can lead to chewing problems and utilization of feed.

 

3.  Please contact two feed suppliers.  Ask for prices on a horse feed – try to compare the same feed.  Ask if they offer volume discounts.  Tell me about your findings.

 

4.  Locate feeding directions for the feed you used in number three.  How much would it cost to feed an 800 pound adult horse at maintenance activity level per day?  Please include the math so I can follow your calculations.

 

5. Please send me a report about what your demo horse eats, how much, how often and how is it provided.  Be sure to weigh the feed – please don’t tell me he eats “two scoops of sweet feed and two flakes of hay”!  How many pounds does he eat? Are you feeding it according to the feeding directions?  Include all supplements and why they are offered.

 

 

          Please send your reports to elblazer@horsecoursesonline.com

          Be sure to include your full name and correct email address on all documents.

 

* For a more in depth study of equine nutrition and to learn how to balance a ration,

 please take the online course

 Nutrition for Maximum Performance.