Stable Management

Eleanor Blazer

Lesson Eight

THE FACILITY

LAND

Not all areas allow horses. If you are building a new stable, check with your city or county zoning department. If you live in a subdivision with a homeowner’s association, check the rules and regulations. There may be rules or laws about operating a business in the area. There may also be rules about how many horses per acre owned.

It takes at least two acres of well managed pasture to sustain one horse, depending on the region in which you live. In an arid area it may take as many as 20 acres to support one horse. Even then drought, rain, snow, mud and other environmental conditions will make it mandatory to feed hay.

Being able to rotate or rest the pasture is a must. A dry lot or “sacrifice” area should be available for times when the horse needs to be kept off the good pasture. These are times when the ground is soft, chemicals have been applied, new seed has been planted, or the horse has grazed the plants too close.

A large pasture should be divided into smaller lots. This will allow the areas to be rotated and maintained. When the plants have been grazed to a height of 3 inches the horse should be removed and the pasture rested for a least 30 days.

Horses are selective grazers. They will eat what they like first. This will soon allow the undesirable plants to choke out the preferred growth. When the horses are removed to allow the pasture to rest the un-grazed forage or weeds should be clipped and not allowed to re-seed.

Pastures that have been ignored or allowed to grow up in weeds will need to be renovated before they can provide a horse with good quality forage. In the fall the weeds should be sprayed with herbicide (for example: 2, 4-D amine or ester), a soil test should be taken, and lime applied as indicated by the test. The lime will help bring the pH of the soil up to the needed level of 6.0 to 7.0. The following spring the pasture needs to be plowed, fitted, seeded, and a starter fertilizer applied. The horse needs to be kept off the newly renovated pasture for at least 6 months. Allowing animals to graze before the seeds are established will damage the new seeding. Check with your local county extension office for assistance.

Established pastures need a maintenance program. Control weeds by clipping them before they go to seed. Herbicides can be used, but they will have grazing restrictions – read all labels and follow all directions.

A soil test should be taken; if the test results show an acidic condition, lime should be applied. A routine fertilization program needs to be implemented in order to keep the desired plants healthy. Do not allow the plants to be grazed shorter than 3 inches in height. Over-grazing will kill the desired plants and allow weeds to take over the pasture.

Over-seeding an established pasture without tilling the ground is not very effective. A seed bed must be prepared so the new seeds will make soil contact. Once the weeds have been controlled and the pH adjusted, mow the pasture short, use a no-till drill, or scrape the ground with a disk or harrow, then broadcast the seed. Apply a starter fertilizer and keep the horses off it until the new seeding is established – a minimum of 6 weeks. Then follow the suggestions for rotating pastures and limiting the grazing time. Spring or early fall is the best time for over-seeding.

Frost seeding is another method of introducing new seeds to an established pasture. It is done best in March in areas where the ground has frozen during the winter. The theory is the thawing and re-freezing of the soil will allow the seed to make soil contact. If frost seeding is going to be done it is recommended having the existing vegetation clipped short, the pH adjusted, weeds controlled, and fertilizer applied in the fall previous to frost seeding. Legumes work better than grasses when attempting to frost seed. Grass seeds are soft and will probably rot before they have a chance to germinate. Clover varieties work the best, as trefoil is slow to establish and alfalfa does not germinate well in low temperatures.

The type of soil and geographic location will determine the types of plants for the pasture. Available moisture, growing season, and nutrients in the soil all play a factor when choosing the types of forage.

As with any change in diet, horses not used to pasture or experiencing a change in forage type must be introduced slowly to the new feed. Introducing a horse not used to fresh green grass or allowing horses on pastures during periods of rapid forage growth requires management. Laminitis or colic can occur if the grazing is not controlled.

One recommended method of adapting a horse to new or lush pasture is to feed hay prior to allowing the horse pasture access. Then limit the grazing time to avoid digestive problems. Over a period of 2 weeks the amount of time the horse is allowed to graze can be increased gradually. Horses or ponies that are cresty-necked, easy keepers, or have had laminitis in the past should not be allowed to graze on lush, rapidly growing pasture. A grazing muzzle may be used if they cannot be kept off the pasture.

Observation of horses on pasture is critical. Severe weather, flies, loss of edible forage can cause horses to spend less time grazing resulting in weight loss and health problems related to nutritional deficiencies.

Good pasture management also means controlling the manure. Manure should be picked up at least twice per week. If this is not possible mow or harrow the pasture to break up the manure piles. This should be done when the horses have been removed from the pasture – during its rest period. Breaking up the piles exposes the parasite eggs to the elements and aids in killing them.

If you do not have enough land for pasture, a turn-out area must be provided. Horses need to move around in order to maintain good digestive function. Horses are healthier when they can be out in fresh air. Vices such as cribbing, weaving and eating manure may be avoided when horses get plenty of turn-out time. Provide hay in the turn-out area to simulate grazing.

Keeping a horse confined in stall 24-hours a day is not good horsemanship and very cruel.

FENCES

Fences and horses do not mix, but fences are a necessary evil. There is no such thing as “horse-proof” fence. Here is a partial list of fence types and their pro’s and con’s.

Barbed wire: Barbed wire should never be used with horses. If a horse becomes entangled or runs into the fence terrible wounds will be the result.

4-point barb A wound caused by barbed wire.

Hi-Tensile Wire: Hi-tensile single-strand smooth wire should never be used with horses. It was designed for cattle and sheep. 12.5 gauge hi-tensile wire (the most common sold) has a breaking strength of 130,000 to 265,000 pounds per square inch. Tendons, muscle, ligaments and flesh will not survive if a horse becomes entangled in this wire. It will cut a horse to the bone and become lodged in the bone if the horse continues to struggle.

There have been thousands of horses killed or euthanized after becoming entangled in hi-tensile fence. It should never be used as a common fence line between horse pastures. If a horse kicks through it at another horse or even in play there is no escape from injury.

It is also very hard to see. In the picture below, with the buffalo, the fence is hard to detect.

Hi-Tensile Fence – Hard to See

This mare was lucky – the hi-tensile just peeled the skin and flesh down to her ankle.

(She kicked through the fence at another horse.)

There are also coated hi-tensile single strand wire products on the market. These fences are a little safer and easier to see…but the wire will not break if the horse gets entangled.

Electric Fence: There are many types of electric fence products on the market.

The hi-tensile smooth wire (mentioned above) can be electrified…do not use hi-tensile with horses, even if it is electrified.

There are galvanized smooth wires available that are not hi-tensile. These are normally available in 14 and 17 gauge (the lower the number, the thinner the wire). Horses can still be wounded if they become entangled in this wire. It is hard to see if there are not streamers or a high visibility product also being used. This fence is usually strung along the top of a permanent fence to keep the horses from leaning over the fence.

Top strand electric – notice the horses staying back.

A popular electric product is fence tape. These products have tiny strands of wire interwoven in the poly material. The tiny wires carry the current. This fence has high-visibility, unless it is white and there is snow on the ground. Because of the width special insulators and accessories must be used.

Fence Tape

Electric fence is high maintenance. The fence must be kept free of vegetation and not allowed to touch things that short it out. It is a good idea to set up the fence in zones, so one section can be checked for shorts, eliminating a lot of trips to the barn to shut the fencer off while checking the fence.

Follow the directions that come with the fence charger. Having a good ground is the most important step when installing electric fence.

Horses respect electric fence. The use of at least one strand in conjunction with other products may extend the life of the permanent fence.

Board Fence: There is nothing prettier than a freshly painted, well-maintained board fence. (Think of Kentucky and the long stretches of black board fences.)

If a board fence is chosen for use with horses, be prepared to paint and repair when needed. Splintered, warped boards are dangerous around horses. Protruding nails and board ends that curve into the pasture present dangerous situations for horses.

Horses love to chew wood, adding to the maintenance of the fence. An electric wire along the top will keep them back.

Black board fence

with non-climb fence attached.

Vinyl Simulated Board Fence is an expensive alternative to the traditional board fence. Vinyl board fence is low maintenance and fairly horse friendly. A single strand of electric fence along the top board will aide in protecting the fence.

Vinyl Simulated Board Fence

Woven Wire/Stock Fence: Woven wire, stock fence or field fence is a popular fence used for horses, cattle, sheep and goats. It is fairly economical and comes in large rolls (330 feet). It is available in several heights (47 inches is preferred for horses) and hole sizes (6 inches and 12 inches). Woven wire also comes in several wire gauges with the top and bottom wires heavier than the filler wires.

Woven wire can be “walked-down” by horses because of the spacing between the wires. The vertical wires are usually 6 or 12 inches apart and the horizontal wires are usually 6 inches apart. This space allows a horse’s hoof to be placed in the hole and the fence smashed down. A single strand of electric wire can protect the fence.

Woven wire – 6” x 6” inch spaces.

Non-climb Horse Fence: Introduced by Red Brand Fence many years ago, the non-climb horse fence is a fairly safe method for securing horses. The major drawback is horseshoes getting caught if horses paw or kick at the fence. It is a wire fence with small holes, eliminating horses trying to “walk” it down. A single strand of electric along the top will keep the horses back and extend the life of the fence.

Non-climb horse fence spacing. Non-climb horse fence with a top board.

Pipe: Fences made out of pipe are very sturdy and low maintenance. The spacing of the pipe needs to be considered – can the horse get his head back out if he puts it through? Pipe fence is very unforgiving…horses can be injured or killed if they run into it or become entangled.

Pipe Fence

Round-pen Panels: Horses should not be left unattended in round pens. These pens are designed for training purposes. Most round pens are not anchored down…the circle (round) configuration allows each panel to hold the next one in place. Do not use the panels that are not squared at the corners. The rounded corners leave a gap between panels in which a hoof or head can be caught. Some panels have the bars spaced far enough apart that a head can be pushed through, but may not be retracted easily or safely.

Round-pen panel with squared corners. Round-pen panel with rounded corners.

A good web site to visit for fence ideas is:http://www.rammfence.com/

SHELTERS

Run-In or Loafing Sheds:

A shelter that blocks the wind; offers the horse protection from rain, freezing rain, snow, bugs, direct sun, and wind; provides a dry, clean place to stand or lie down is good enough for healthy horses. It is their owners who want an airtight structure.

Large loafing shed

Loafing shed with storage area.

Loafing shed with small paddock.

The best shelter for a horse is one in which he can come and go as he pleases. If there is more than one horse, several shelters may be needed to avoid the alpha horse keeping the lower ranked horses out of the shelter.

The shelter should be well ventilated and easy to clean. Manure needs to be removed daily. The ground in the structure and surrounding area needs to be maintained so it will stay dry and free of rocks. Rubber mats will aid the cleaning and maintenance.

If a loafing shed is provided there should be a method of blocking the entrance in case the horse needs to be contained in the event of injury.

“Mare Motels”: Mare motels are covered paddocks. They are very popular in warm areas. The structures allow plenty of air movement, shade, protection from rain and bugs. For more seclusion solid partitions can be used, but these limit the air flow. Portable stalls can also be set up under the roof. Usually part of the horse’s living area is under roof and part is exposed. Visit Custom Barns for more ideas.

Mare Motel

Pole Barns: Pole barns are very popular. Most horse barns and indoor riding arenas are the pole type. They can be plain, with just a few stalls and a tack room. Or very fancy, with a wash rack, lounge area, kitchen and attached to the indoor riding arena. Contact your local builders.

Pole Barn

Modular Barns: Modular barns are barns that come in pre-made sections. Most companies have sections that are delivered and “hooked together”. These make very nice affordable shelters for horses with a center aisle. Visit MGC Buildings or Barnmaster for more information.

Modular Barn

Fabric Covered Buildings: Fabric covered buildings are becoming more common. They are available as kits (you set it up) or the company assembles the unit. Compare prices of the fabric covered building to other structures; once a good foundation is installed you may be close to the price of a wood and steel traditional building. Visit Cover-All for ideas.

Fabric covered barn

Before starting construction check zoning laws and speak to qualified contractors in your area. Find out if you need a building permit. Be sure the structure you choose is appropriate for your geographical area (can the roof hold the snow load; will there be sufficient air movement when it is hot). Make sure the spot you build your barn is in a good location - not at the bottom of a slope where water run-off will be a problem.

Providing your horses with a clean, dry, safe home is very important. As you visit other horse facilities observe how the horses are stabled. You do not want your horse standing knee-deep in mud and manure without a clean dry area to rest…and you do not want to be slogging around in muck trying to care for him.

STALLS

Box stalls are convenient for horse owners, and pretty much the standard for show horses, but in either case, not the first choice of any horse. Box stalls can become “solitary confinement,” and horses don’t like that—they are herd animals, gregarious, curious and friendly.

If you are caring for horses in box stalls, be sure the stall is safe and comfortable. The walls should be smooth, without gaps and without open spots around the base.

HORSES HATE SOLITARY CONFINEMENT

Box stalls must allow the horse to look out. If the door and windows of the stall are enclosed, find a way to open the stall door, keeping the horse behind webbing or stall guard. A horse needs to see his neighbors and he needs to be able to look around and observe area activities. Horses are prey animals and become nervous and neurotic when confined. Do the best thing for the horse and yourself; avoid the consequences of horse confinement—stall vices: weaving, pawing, cribbing, wood chewing, ulcers, self-mutilation and a generally bad attitude.

Stalls should be large enough the horse can lie down and move around comfortably. Ten by twelve foot stalls, or larger, is best.

Stalls should be checked daily for maintenance work.

If the horse is kept in a box stall be sure you insist on “excellent” ventilation—not just good, but excellent. Horses must have fresh air and plenty of it if they are to remain happy and healthy.

If the horses are being housed in pipe pens, wood corrals, or behind wire fences, the stable manager should check the enclosure twice daily for maintenance work.

Pipe pens and wood corrals should not have common walls. There should be at least five-feet between pens. Separating pens will be considered by most as totally impractical, however, good stable management requires horses be separated. When horses are confined, they tend to become very territorial—they will kick at neighbors, bite neighbors and lunge at neighbors, all as a way of protecting their castle and its contents—food. Keep the pens separated and you’ll have less injury to horses and less maintenance; both will save you and the horse owners grief and dollars.

Feeding in pens should be the same as in box stalls. If the pens are fully covered, then there is little problem where water buckets are hanged. However, if the pens are only partially covered, but sure water is in the shade. Water left in direct sun can become so hot the horse will not drink….if the horse doesn’t drink, the horse doesn’t eat. (Anytime you observe a horse not eating, check his water first. Automatic waterers are always getting plugged.)

Hay and grains should be fed in a manager on the ground and not under or too near the water buckets. Damp grains and moldy hay can become very toxic.

Pens should be cleaned completely once a day, usually in the morning. The pens (as well as box stalls) should be “run” in late afternoon to pick up manure dropped during the day, leaving a clean stall for the night.

A second cleaning is usually not necessary if the horses are turned out during the day. Short time turnouts—one to three hours—don’t count. Horses on short time turnouts should have their stall “run” in the afternoon.

The facility will dictate to some degree how turnouts will be handled. Try not to turn out two horses together. Stalled horses love to kick and play with a friend during turnout. While it is nice for the horses---at first---it generally results in pulled shoes, kick wounds, bites and unfortunately too often, damaged bones or joints. Turning stalled horses out together is not worth the risk.

It is highly advised you walk the facility at least once a week - inspect the fence and look for things in need of repair. I put a pair of fence pliers in my pocket, so I can make minor repairs - if possible.

MANURE MANAGEMENT

Horses produce a lot of manure. According to Colorado State University a 1,000-pound horse will produce about 40-plus pounds of manure per day, plus another possible 50 pounds in soaked bedding. The majority of this weight is moisture.

Stockpiling manure and removing it all at once is the most common method of disposal. The drawback to this method is the unsightly pile, flies, odor, run-off and complaints from the neighbors.

When deciding where to put the manure, consider possible contamination of water (ponds, creeks and wells). A 50-foot grass buffer strip is recommended between the pile and water sources.

A manure pile holding area can be helpful. This structure features a concrete floor; berms that offer drainage control and walls that will keep the pile in one spot. The walls also help with the aesthetics of the stable.

Manure Containment Structure

The majority of stable managers just pile the manure in a huge heap behind the barn. If you chose this method still consider it’s location in relationship to water sources and where the run-off ends.

Once the pile reaches immense proportions (or the neighbors start to complain) it’s time to get rid of the pile.

The easiest way to get rid of the manure is spreading it on your own land. This requires a tractor, manure spreader, a front-end loader (or a strong back and manure fork) and land.

There are some drawbacks to spreading raw manure and bedding on your land. The horses will not eat grass that has manure on it. If there are weed seeds in the hay you will be seeding your pastures or fields with weed seed. It is possible you will be spreading internal parasites to your pastures (a good de-worming program is mandatory). If the manure is mixed with sawdust or wood shavings the grass or crop in the field will be stunted.

If you don’t want crops stunted, you must treat the daily amount of manure collected. Treat it as you take it from the stall. You need to add nitrogen in the form of ammonium nitrate or ammonium sulfate fertilizer at the rate of ½ cup per day to 40 to 50 pounds of manure. Just sprinkle it on the manure mixture after it’s been loaded in the wheelbarrow or spreader. Do not use urea fertilizer because the nitrogen can be lost into the air.

Composting manure is the best method. Composting can be time-consuming and it takes planning, but the advantages far out-weigh the effort.

Composting will eliminate the carbon to nitrogen ratio unbalance. It reduces the total amount that needs to be dispersed and concentrates the beneficial nutrients. The heat generated by composting kills parasites, bacteria and insect eggs. Fully composted manure will not attract adult flies. Plus composted manure is easy to get rid of….people love it for their gardens.

For information on how to compost manure go to Oklahoma Cooperative Extension Service’s fact sheet BAE-1729. Click here.

Be careful you do not spread too much manure on a field or pasture. Contact your local Cooperative Extension office for assistance. They can conduct soil tests to determine how much you can spread without creating a problem. It is possible to over-fertilize.

Another option to get rid of the manure pile is to pay a farmer or commercial hauler to remove it.

Do not fill in low areas with manure. It is organic, and when wet will turn into a bog. The bacteria and parasites it contains create unsanitary conditions. Make sure you remove manure from your turn-out area, dry-lot or riding arena and preserve the good footing you have provided for your horse.

FEEDERS AND WATERS

Do not use mounted feeders in a box stall. Horses were designed to eat from the ground. Construct a manger on the floor close to the door or a window so the horse can relax while he eats instead of feeling trapped in a back corner. (For the nutritional needs of the horse, be sure to complete the course, Nutrition for Maximum Performance.)

Most automatic water devices for box stalls are too small. Insist on a large bowl waterer, and hang additional water buckets in the stall. Install a water flow meter on each automatic unit. These meters will tell you how much water the horse is consuming – if you remember to check the reading.

Water buckets are better than automatic waterers because they allow you to observe the amount of water the horse is drinking each day. Water buckets should be cleaned and filled in the morning and again in the evening, with periodic refills during the day. During hot or humid weather it may be necessary to provide two buckets of water per horse in each stall. Keep in mind a horse needs water more than he needs food. And he’ll digest his food better if he has plenty of clean, fresh water.

HOURS OF OPERATION/PETS/CHILDREN

If you are running a boarding or training stable you should post when the facility is open for “visitors”.

Each stable is different. It is possible the boarders or horse owners at your facility are responsible and you won’t mind them coming and going at their leisure. But for security reasons and your own “peace of mind” hours should be implemented.

If hours of operation are posted be sure they are fair to all involved. Allowing some clients free access and restricting others will cause friction.

While addressing hours of operation you should also decide what your pet and children policies are going to encompass. Are dogs going to be allowed? How will you handle unruly children? It’s best to have rules in place in advance.

In a later lesson we’ll look at boarding contracts, where many of these concerns are addressed.

ASSIGNMENT:

1. If you already have a stable tell me about it using the material described in this lesson.

If you do not have a stable please design a 6-stall barn.

Send a drawing (of either one) with your text documents.

In a text document describe the size and type of stalls, layout, construction and materials. Draw the barn, showing how the sun shines upon the barn and the location of various elements of the barn. Think about where you live and the ease of doing chores during inclement weather. Give details on where the tack room, wash rack (if you want or have one), feed room, hay storage, bedding storage and other features of the barn are located.

Tell me how the water will be supplied to the horses.

2. Send a report with the details regarding the area around your current stable or the 6-stall horse barn design. How will manure be managed? What types of fences will be used? What are the sizes of the pastures or turnouts? What is your plan for pasture management? Where will horse trailers be parked? Is the hay stored in a separate building and is it readily accessible? Do you intend to have a covered or uncovered arena (or both), and where will it/they be located? Include a drawing of the area to illustrate your document.

3. If you already have a stable tell me what you would like to change or wish you had done differently.

*The drawings do not have to be to scale or blueprint quality.

*Feel free to send a video – this is not mandatory.

E-mail your assignment to: elblazer@horsecoursesonline.com or FAX to 830.438.6192