Stable Management

Lesson Six

The Sick or Injured Horse

Despite their size horses are delicate creatures. They seem to find ways to injure themselves, despite all we do to protect them. The unique equine digestive system makes them prone to feed related illnesses. There are also many diseases that can affect horses.

Stable managers must be able to recognize when a horse is in distress. Previous lessons have shown how to monitor vital signs and observe the horse. It is very important horses are inspected several times a day – the sooner a problem is recognized the more chance there is of a successful recovery.

This lesson covers some basic problems, teaches when to call the vet and what to do until he or she arrives. For a more in-depth study of horse health care take the online course Health and Disease Management taught by Dr. Jack Sales, DVM.

As a disclaimer, you should know the American Veterinary Medical Association has been and is working hard to make almost anything you do as a treatment to a horse illegal. Veterinarians are concerned they are losing income to chiropractors, healing hands, acupuncturists, aroma-therapists, Reiki practitioners and those doing equine massage. They don’t want alternative therapy competition. As ridiculous as it may seem, if you treat someone else’s horse, even in an emergency situation, you may be breaking the law, and it could come back to haunt you.

If you assist in an effort to save someone’s horse, be sure you state clearly that you are not trying to diagnose, cure or medicate the horse. Then don’t say anything more. Do what you can to benefit the horse.

EMERGENCY OR FIRST AID?

The first step to assisting a horse in trouble is decide if the problem is an emergency or can be just treated with first aid.

Emergencies are life and death situations. The veterinarian must be summoned immediately.

There are only three true emergencies, and they are all based on a time frame.

1. Profuse bleeding. A horse can lose a lot of blood, but can’t lose it for long. A heavy flow of blood that lasts longer than 10 minutes is very serious…the horse may not survive.

2. A horse that can’t breathe. Choke, poisons from plants or a snake can shut off a horse’s air supply…again, you do not have much time…quick action is needed or the horse may not survive.

3. Problems foaling. Mares and foals are in a life or death struggle if the mare is having major difficulties delivering. (Unless you are managing a broodmare facility, you will most likely not be involved with this emergency.) For more information about broodmares and caring for horses in reproduction take the online courses: Equine Reproduction and Stallion Management.

Many horse owners consider colic an emergency. Colic becomes an emergency if care was delayed because of a “wait and see” attitude. Observing and monitoring horses daily can keep most colics from becoming emergencies. Don’t delay treatment if a horse is showing signs of colic. (More about colic later in this lesson.)

Every stable manager should have their veterinarian’s phone number saved on their cell phone and posted in the barn. During an emergency, precious time can be saved if the number does not have to be looked up. Have a back-up veterinarian’s information available also.

* A note about your relationship with your veterinarian – I don’t recommend you give your own vaccinations. Having a vet come out twice a year to give vaccinations develops a good working relationship. He or she becomes familiar with the horses, the facility and you. If you need a veterinarian on a Saturday night during a snow storm, you will more likely get aid if the vet knows you and your horses. Make sure your vet bill is kept current; respond time is much faster if there is not outstanding debt.

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PROFUSE BLEEDING

If you have a wound with heavy bleeding your first action is to stop the bleeding.

It is great if you have sterile padding available, but if you don’t, use towels or a shirt, or whatever is handy and clean.

A compress should be bulky and be applied with a good deal of pressure.

Once in position, don’t lift the compress off to see if the bleeding has stopped. Leave it in place!

If the compress becomes completely soaked in blood, add more material to the soiled….don’t remove the first compress.

If possible, get the horse to a safe, quiet area. He’ll feel more comfortable in his stall.

And don’t panic. Remain as calm as possible and stay with the horse, keeping activity to a minimum. Your calmness will help reassure the horse, making him calm and lowering his pulse rate.

Call the vet. This is when having your cell phone and the veterinarian’s phone number in memory comes in handy. If you have to leave the horse to call the vet, have someone stay with the horse to hold on the compress and keep the horse from moving around.

When things are relatively quiet, get the horse’s vital statistics. You’ll want his pulse rate immediately, and then you’ll want to take it again after several minutes. Check the horse’s respiration, and if not a problem, take his temperature. Along with this information, gather any other information about the horse…his age, allergies, date of last Tetanus shot, etc. The more information you can give the attending veterinarian, the more quickly treatment can be provided. This is where the stall card and records are important - make sure you keep them current!

You can recall the vet and give him the vital signs as he is driving to the stable.

CAN’T BREATHE

Total restriction of the equine air passage is usually caused by complications due to choke, snake bite, and reactions to poisoning or vaccinations.

CHOKE

Choke occurs when partially chewed food gets stuck in the horse’s esophagus. Horses can still breathe if the esophagus is restricted. The problem with breathing occurs when the horse coughs excessively, trying to shift the mass. Saliva and particles of food can exit the nostrils, blocking air-flow and shutting down the horse’s breathing.

Choke seldom kills a horse, but not doing the right things can be very serious.

As soon as you recognizing the horse is choking, remove all grains and hay. Get the horse to a quiet spot in his stall, and let him put his head down. Call your veterinarian.

It is necessary to clear the obstruction in the esophagus. The obstruction will not come up, so you must massage it down toward the stomach. Keep massaging the neck and keep the horse as quiet as possible.

Do not try to get the horse to drink.

The veterinarian will generally sedate the horse, then pass a stomach tube through the horse’s nostril and flush water in and siphon it out again in an attempt to soften the mass, breaking it up and making it smaller. This can be an extremely messy job.

You want to keep the horse as quiet as possible. You don’t want the horse moving or jerking causing the tube or the moving mass to damage or rupture the esophagus.

Choke can be caused by horses eating too fast, not properly chewing food (possibly due to poor dental conditions), not producing enough saliva or by partial obstructions in the esophagus due to tumor or scarring.

SNAKE BITE AND POISONOUS PLANTS

Poisonous plants cause various reactions; swelling of the nostrils is the only one that can be treated with emergency first aid. Snake bites are similar…the only thing you can do as an emergency first aid is keep the horse’s nostrils from swelling shut.

If it appears the nostrils are swelling and closing at an alarming rate, find some small pieces of tubing, preferably something very soft, such as a rubber hose. The hose must be small in diameter. Drinking straws will work and can be inserted into the nostrils even when they are very swollen.

Insert the hose or straws as far into the nostril as possible without the horse throwing his head about and becoming agitated.

While you wait for the veterinarian, keep the horse as quiet as possible and keep his head down as much as possible; gravity helps keep the toxin from spreading. Keeping the horse calm slows the heart and the rate of passage of the poison within the body.

If you can identify the snake, do so; knowing the kind of snake may help devise a treatment plan. Determine when and what vaccinations the horse as had, including his last Tetanus toxoid.

Do not try to cut a snake-bite wound and apply suction.

Do not apply ice or heat to the wound.

Only about one-half of the horses bitten by snakes are actually envenomated in the right place with enough venom to cause life-threatening symptoms. If the horse’s nostrils are not swelling shut, simply keep the horse quiet until the veterinarian arrives.

VACCINATION REACTIONS

If a horse has a severe reaction to a vaccination the airway can swell. Other symptoms of severe anaphylactic shock are anxiety, diarrhea, a decrease in blood pressure, sweating, shock and collapse. Death is possible, even with treatment.

Epinephrine is given as an antidote. It must be given quickly and repeated every 15 minutes as needed. The usual dose is 1-2 ml of a 1:1000 epinephrine solution given intramuscularly or subcutaneously for mild reactions and 4-8 ml of 1:1000 epinephrine solution intramuscularly or subcutaneously or 3-5 ml of 1:10000 solutions intravenously via the jugular vein over a 3-5 minute period for severe or life-threatening reactions.

This is another reason to have a veterinarian administer routine vaccinations.

PROBLEMS FOALING

If you are responsible for the care of a pregnant broodmare please take the online course Equine Reproduction. There is too much information for me to cover in a section of one lesson. I will mention two instances that are life threatening to the mare and foal.

If the mare’s “water breaks” (a release of the allantoic fluids during the rupture of placental membranes) and the foal is not delivered within 20 minutes – call the vet. Do not wait until the mare is exhausted from straining. Do not attempt to “pull” the foal. The vet may advise you to get the mare up and walk her until he arrives.

The second emergency is premature separation of the placenta, also known as “red bag”. The mare begins labor and a red bag appears at the opening of the vagina. This is one instance you don’t have time to wait for the vet. The “bag” (placenta) needs to be cut and the foal pulled out. The foal will suffocate if immediate action is not taken.

The best utensil for cutting the placenta is a pair of scissors. Be careful you don’t cut the foal. Then call the vet.

MORE PROBLEMS

FRACTURES

There is little you can do in the way of emergency first aid when a horse fractures a bone. Most of the time we think broken bones mean the horse will have to be put down, but today, there are many surgical techniques that can repair some fractures.

If you think the horse has fractured a bone, remain as calm as possible and keep the horse as calm as possible. Call a veterinarian and take the horse’s vital signs. Do not move the horse unless absolutely necessary.

If there is bleeding, follow the steps to stop profuse bleeding.

If the horse seems to be “shocky” get a cooler or blanket and put over the horse. Give the horse a sip of water every now and then, stroke him, pat him and try to reassure him.

FIRST AID

Horses are constantly cutting, scraping, bumping, slashing or puncturing themselves. And you can be pretty sure the new problem will occur moments before the show class, the race, the event or the pleasure ride begins.

As we learned in lesson four, the first rule of first-aid for horses is to treat all injuries as soon as they are discovered. The initial treatment may be minor, such as rinsing off the injury with clear water. In any case, you must make your first treatment in such a manner as to be of benefit to further treatment and proper healing.

Don’t take action without thought. Putting the wrong medication on a wound may cause severe complications.

Don’t move too slowly….while what you have may not be an emergency; many injuries will do much better if they are treated within hours.

Wounds without a lot of bleeding may not be considered “emergencies,” but will benefit from quick action if they need to be sutured. To delay getting a wound stitched may result in contamination causing further complications. Leg wounds often fit in to this category.

Big, deep or ragged wounds on the face and body may need suturing. Have a veterinarian looks at such wounds as soon as possible. Do not put any kind of medication on such wounds unless it is water-soluble. All other wounds, scrapes, lumps or bumps are probably not emergencies—they may still need professional care. As the stable manager, you may be expected to administer immediate first-aid, but it is not your job to decide on any other treatment. Let the stable veterinarian or the owner’s veterinarian make decisions about treatment and after care.

If the injury falls into the “needs first-aid” category, take two actions—call the owner or the owner’s vet and apply the initial treatment while waiting for assistance. Initial treatment requires you to do three things.

1. Free the injured area of contamination as best you can. This usually means running cold, clear water from the hose on the wound. If running water is not available, get a bucket or pan of water and sponge the wound. It you can’t do that, don’t do anything.

2. Continue to run cool, clear water on the wound to keep it clean and keep the swelling down. If you can’t do that, don’t do anything.

3. If the wound is bleeding, apply a compress. A compress should be bulky and can be made of clean towels. The emphasis here is on “pressure” and “clean.”

Determine the status of the horse’s tetanus immunization. It should be on your permanent record chart—the one you keep on each horse. The veterinarian will want to know.

Never put a topical dressing on a wound that can’t be easily washed away; the wound may need to be cleansed before suturing. Use water soluble salves if you decide to apply an ointment.

All other wounds, scrapes, lumps and bumps are probably not in need of first aid, but rather “loving care.”

Major blows to the horse’s body, which may not show much on the surface, can often fall into the category of needing professional attention. A horse that falls, or runs into a fence or kicks a solid object, then shows some signs of lameness, or an inability to move normally, should be seen as soon as possible by your vet.

COLIC

Colic used to be the number one cause of death in horses. Due to better deworming schedules and health care old age has knocked it from that lofty position. But colic can kill and should not be ignored.

The more quickly you respond to the symptoms of colic, the more quickly the horse may get over the pain, and the danger.

Colic is the name given to any undiagnosed abdominal pain. Colic can be caused by any number of things, but most often is the result of a sudden change in feeds…from dry hay to a wetter hay, from hay to pellets, or a change in grains. Colics are often the result of damage done to the stomach by parasites. Impaction colic due to dehydration is also very common.

It is highly recommended to remove all feed and call a veterinarian immediately if colic is suspected.

Let’s review the signs of colic:

· Refusal to eat grain or hay

· Change in attitude

· Restlessness

· Pulse, respiration rate, or temperature may be slightly elevated

· Glancing back at the sides of the barrel

· Kicking at the stomach

· Pawing or foot stomping

· Yawning

· Standing in a stretched position

· Tail switching

· Stumbling

· Groaning or sighing

· Repeated laying down

· Stretching of the legs while laying

· Attempting to roll

A horse may have one or more of these symptoms. Know the horses under your care, so you can quickly identify a problem.

If you suspect colic, put your ear next the horse’s flank and listen for gut sounds. If you hear none, you’ve probably got colic. Get the horse moving…at a walk or slow jog. Movement sometimes helps get the gut moving. But don’t walk or exercise to the point of exhaustion, let the horse rest periodically. Do this while waiting for a return call or visit from the veterinarian.

Another common colic is caused by gas, and quick first aid can get the horse over the problem in a relatively short period of time without much distress.

Try this “first-aid” treatment if you suspect gas colic: almost any over-the-counter gas relief remedy for humans will work well with horses. Infant’s gas relief drops work great, and so do any of the adult liquid gas relief formulas if they contain simethicone. Don’t hesitate to give simethicone at the first signs of colic…it will do no harm.

Infant gas relief comes with a dropper; give four or five droppersful. If you use the liquid gas relief, give 20 to 40 CCs or one to two ounces.

After giving the gas relief medication, keep the horse walking or slow jogging. He should show improvement within 20 to 30 minutes if it is gas colic. If there is no improvement within 45 minutes, call your veterinarian. Make the call even though many colics disappear on their own; it’s better to be safe than sorry, and if the horse is a candidate for surgery, the decision must be made early.

TYING UP

Tying-up is the term used to describe the pain, cramping, and stiffness of the rear quarters. Research continues to unravel the causes of this affliction. It has been determined there is no single cause.

Symptoms of tying up:

· Muscle stiffness, cramping and involuntary contraction

· Discomfort and irritability

· Short strides

· Sweating

· Difficulty moving

· Abnormal vital signs

· Brown colored urine – this is a sign of severe muscle damage

Call the veterinarian immediately and do not move the horse – even a few steps.

Two basic forms have been recognized: Polysaccharide Storage Myopathy and Recurrent Exertional Rhabdomyolysis.

Polysaccharide Storage Myopathy (PSSM) is a syndrome that apparently occurs when excess sugar and polysaccharide is present in the muscle. (Polysaccharide is a form of carbohydrate where the sugar molecules are linked together chemically.)

PSSM usually occurs in a horse after a period of rest is followed by intense exercise. This is why it is sometimes known as Monday Morning Disease. Draft horses given the weekend off may show symptoms when put back to work.

A change in diet can assist in the prevention of PSSM. Decreasing the amount of soluble carbohydrates (starch and sugar) in the diet in very important. Avoid feeding grain, sweet feed, and commercial formulas that base the energy source on these ingredients.

Feed insoluble carbohydrates – plenty of good quality grass hay. Offer a feed designed to compliment the forage with the energy source based on added fat, not grain. Adequate and good quality protein is important for muscle repair and maintenance.

Recurrent Exertional Rhabdomyolysis (RER) has the same external symptoms as PSSM. The cause is very different.

RER is caused by an imbalance of calcium ions in the muscle cells. These ions control muscle contraction. Excessive loss if electrolytes through sweat leads to the imbalance of calcium and the resulting cramps.

The management of soluble carbohydrates is not as critical in the diet of a horse prone to RER as in one with PSSM. But, using fat as an energy source instead of grains is always safer. Providing a balanced mineral/vitamin supplement, good quality grass hay, free choice salt, and plenty of water is recommended for all horses.

It is very important not to move a horse showing signs of tying-up. Stop exercising immediately and do not force him to walk. Severe damage to the muscle will be the result of forced movement. Blanket him if it is cool and offer small frequent sips of water. Follow the advice of the veterinarian on subsequent care.

While you are waiting for the vet to arrive, take the horse’s temperature, respiration and pulse rate. Keep checking the vital signs every 15 to 30 minutes.

Allow the horse small amounts of water, if he will drink. Put hay down in front of the horse and allow him to eat if he will.

Don’t move the horse.

SUDDEN LAMENESS

Sudden lameness usually means something has happened to the horse’s hoof.

Your first-aid action is to stop the horse and determine the cause of the lameness. Check the hoof.

Start your examination on the outside of the hoof…look at the bulb of the heel and see if the horse has stepped on himself with a hind foot. If the bulb of the heel has been lacerated or smashed, it can cause the horse to go lame immediately. If the problem is not there, lift the foot and begin examining the bottom of the hoof.

Feel the hoof for heat.

PUNCTURE WOUNDS TO THE HOOF

Puncture wounds to the sole or frog are the frequent cause of sudden lameness. Be careful in examining the bottom of the hoof. If there is a puncture, hope the object is still in the foot—location of the puncture is essential.

The most dangerous place for a puncture is in the central part of the foot since so many vital structures are there.

Remove or not remove? That is the question....and there is no clear “yes or no” answer.

If the object is left in the foot, the veterinarian can see how deep it penetrated and rule out trauma to the deep interior of the hoof. Damage to the deep hoof tissue can cause blood supply problems, compromise the connective tissue and introduce containments which can lead to deep-seated infection. Infection to the synovial structures is very painful and may result in life-long lameness and arthritis.

Leaving the object in the foot can lead to it becoming deeper imbedded. What was a minor problem now becomes a big problem.

Each situation is different. If the object is not protruding and the risk of shoving it in further is non-existent, and the vet can be there within an hour, you may decide to leave the object alone. It’s your call.

After talking to your veterinarian, if you decide to remove the object clean the foot as much as you can.

Carefully pull the object from the hoof, pulling it out in the same direction that it entered. Remember exactly where the puncture occurred, as puncture wounds have a habit of disappearing. Making a note of how much of the object was below the surface will help determine how deep the wound.

Clean the foot again as best you can, but without using fluids that could seep into the wound.

Use a sharp hoof knife; trim away the edges of the puncture. This will help aid the veterinarian in finding the area of penetration. Be careful and don’t cut down too deep.

Clean the foot again as best you can, but without using fluids that could seep into the wound.

Now you need to flush out the wound with a bit of iodine or Betadine solution. Just pour the liquid on the wound; don’t try to squirt it down into the wound.

Any time you need to put the foot down, be sure to cover the puncture with something to keep it free of new contaminants.

If you can, wash the puncture area using peroxide. Then wash the remainder of the foot with soap and water so the entire bottom of the foot has been cleansed. Follow this cleaning with one more iodine or Betadine solution wash, then plug the wound with a cotton ball soaked in iodine or solution and cover the entire foot with a strong, waterproof bandage.

Schedule a visit by a veterinarian and know what the status is of the horse Tetanus immunization.

NO SIGN OF PUNCTURE?

If you do not find a puncture wound and you can’t find any other reason the foot should be causing the lameness, do not stop your search. Begin working up the leg, checking first for bowed tendon, bucked shins, a popped splint bone or a popped knee.

Once you localize the problem you can decide what action is possible. In any case, get the horse back to his stall without further damage, and then begin a treatment suggested by your veterinarian.

ABSCESSESS

Abscesses are pockets of infection that create inflammation, build up pressure and cause intense pain. The pain from an abscess in the hoof is excruciating.

There are many things that can cause an abscess in a hoof.

· A puncture wound that does not heal and becomes infected.

· Dirty, wet conditions which soften the sole can allow bacteria to enter the hoof.

· A bruise on the sole which results in broken blood vessels can become a breeding ground for infection.

· Dirt trapped under the bar of the foot can create an environment for bacteria, leading to an abscess.

· Severe laminitis can create pockets of infection as the coffin bone rotates and pulls away from the sensitive lamina.

Symptoms of an abscess are unexplained lameness, a bounding digital pulse rate, sensitivity to a hoof tester or a sharp rap on the hoof wall, swelling around the coronet band or pastern, increased temperature of the hoof or the appearance of pus emitting from the sole, coronet band or heel. The horse may have one or several of these symptoms. As time goes on more symptoms will appear and the lameness will increase. Many horses will refuse to move and some will be recumbent.

If an abscess is suspected, the attending veterinarian will try to locate the pocket of infection. If he or she can locate the abscess it will be opened and allowed to drain. The wound will be flushed with antiseptic, cleaned and a poultice applied to promote more drainage. The hoof will be bandaged to keep the area clean and hold the poultice in place. The bandage needs to be changed every day.

Soaking the hoof in an Epsom salt solution (add Epsom salts to warm water until no more will dissolve) for 15 to 20 minutes will help drainage. Be careful not to soak the hoof for more days than necessary as the hoof will become too soft.

If the abscess is not located, soaking the hoof in an Epsom salt solution can help bring the abscess to a “head”. When soaking a hoof be sure the solution is deep enough to cover the hairline. It is possible it will erupt through the coronet band.

I have found the best pan for soaking feet are the low black rubber feed tubs. They are safe and indestructible. There are also several styles of soaking boots on the market.

The best poultice I have found is Animalintex. These pads contain an antiseptic and a drawing agent, which are impregnated into cotton wool. They are easy to use. Following the directions on the package – you soak the pad in hot water, apply it to the sole and/or coronet band and wrap with elastic bandage (Vet Wrap, i.e.). I then use duct tape to protect the bandage and make it wear longer. A boot can also be used.

Another great drawing salve is ichthammol or black salve. Apply the salve to the area, place a paper towel or gauze pad over it, wrap with elastic bandage and follow with duct tape. Click here to see a video.

THRUSH

If a horse becomes lame because of a case of thrush it’s because he was neglected.

Thrush is a bacterial infection of the hoof. Horses kept in wet, dirty areas are candidates. Bacteria thrive in a dark, moist environment which lacks oxygen. The collateral grooves along the frog, can be a perfect location of the conditions are “right”.

The first sign a horse has thrush is usually the odor. Visual signs are a black pus-like discharge. Many times you’ll smell it before you see it.

If you suspect thrush don’t put off treating it. Clean the area thoroughly; iodine or betadine works well. Many horse owners use chlorine bleach. If you use bleach be sure you don’t get it on the skin (above the coronet band) or on your clothes.

Now the hardest part: move the horse to a dry area and keep him there. The area must be kept clean and dry. Turning the horse back out into a wet dirty paddock or stall will only make things worse.

Treat the hooves everyday. The thrush should clear up in about five days. If not, call the vet or farrier.

Cleaning the horse’s hooves should be part of your daily routine. It’s easy to put it off, but in the long run spending a few minutes each day will be much better for the horse and you.

SKIN AND COAT

In addition to cleaning the horse’s hooves everyday, the horse should be groomed. This does not mean you have to spend hours grooming, but a quick brush and inspection will alert you to any signs of problems.

Scrapes, nicks, lice, fungi, bacteria, sun burn, insect bites and allergic reactions need to be spotted early to aid successful treatment. Early detection will also give you time to keep contagious elements from spreading to other horses.

Click here to see a chart of possible skin problems. (Compliments of Equus.)

Daily examination of the horse will also keep you aware of body condition. During the grooming process pay attention to the amount of fat covering the ribs, around the tail head and behind the elbows. Click here for a body condition score chart.

EYES

The most common eye problems are debris (dust, dirt, grit), irritation from flies, scratches or a poke in the eye.

The good news is that most eye problems resolve themselves without much delay or treatment. The bad news is when an eye injury is serious there is a good chance for loss of sight or loss of the eye.

Your first goal is to determine the severity of the problem. If the eye is only 50 per cent closed, or less, then the problem is most likely mild to moderate. If the eye is clamped shut and the horse is exhibiting signs of pain and resentment toward your effort to help, the problem is probably serious.

Let’s start with mild to moderate. You need to see if you can determine the problem. If you need to look into the left eye, for example, stand at the horse’s shoulder and with your right hand on the halter, pull the horse’s head toward you. Place your left forearm on the horse’s face to help hold him and your arm steady. Now place you left index finger on the horse’s upper eyelid and your left thumb on the lower lid and press gently into the eyeball forcing the lids to open. Now examine the eye. (Use the exact opposite technique to look into the right eye.)

If the eye is full of dirt, you can often simply blow it out. Keep the eyelids open with your fingers, put your lips close to the eye and give a good blast of air. A couple of attempts will often clear the eye of all debris.

If you can’t blow the dirt or debris from the eye, then you may be able to flush it out. If you attempt to flush the eye, flush with an eye-wash.

If you cannot see dirt in the eye, then the eye may have been scratched. Sometimes you can see a scratch, at other times it requires the eye be stained. In either case, flush the eye with an eye-wash solution.

When you think you have cleaned the eye, confine the horse in a relatively dark place. The horse’s regular stall is best, if you can make it fairly dark. Leave the horse for two hours and then recheck the eye for tearing, squinting, redness or swelling. If the eye still looks irritated, make an appointment to get veterinary attention.

If you have decided the problem is serious, then immediately take the horse to a darkened stall and “patch” the eye. You can put a patch on the eye by using gauze-squares or a handkerchief folded into a large square. Place the patch over the eye and tape in place. Once you have the horse calm and the eye patched, transport to the horse to a veterinary hospital.

CONTAGIOUS DISEASES

Contagious diseases are illnesses that can be transmitted from horse to horse. These illnesses can run through a barn like a wild fire in the California hills.

The first step is to quarantine the sick horse. The second step is to wash your hands before handling another horse. Then call the vet, give him the vitals signs and review the vaccinations records.

Symptoms warranting quarantine would be elevated temperature and respiration rate, discharge from the nostrils or eyes, coughing, swollen lymph nodes, diarrhea and abortion.

The quarantine area should be a building or paddock with a shelter separate from the main barn. If this is not possible the horse should be put in a corner stall that does not allow immediate contact with any other horse. Any horses in the quarantined area should be cared for last, so not to contaminate healthy horses.

Good hygiene must be practiced. Thorough hand washing, disinfecting of buckets and avoiding the use of common grooming and stall cleaning tools is a must. If you are draining abscesses use disposable gloves (i.e. strangles) and dispose of all items in a receptacle away from the horses.

If a mare aborts care must be taken that the fetus, placenta and contaminated bedding is bagged and disposed of properly.

All new horses should be quarantined for two weeks. These horses should be monitored for signs of elevated temperature, coughing, swollen lymph nodes or diarrhea. This time can also be used to deworm the horse, update vaccinations and allow the new horse to acclimate.

For a more in depth study of contagious horse diseases take the online course: Health and Disease Management.

THE MEDICINE CHEST

If you are like most horse owners, your barn medicine chest is probably full of things no longer worth having. And what you need is probably buried or hidden by things which have dried out, been used up or are too old to be effective.

The first rule of medicine-chest first aid is to clean it out periodically and then restock. And don’t overdo it…you probably don’t need all the things your horseochondriac thinks you need.

You’ll need a thermometer. Get a good one. Thermometers are all hard to read, so select one on the basis of how easy it is to read.

You’ll need some blunt surgical scissors. If you don’t stick your horse with the scissors when he moves, you’ll probably stick yourself.

Keep at least one roll of sheet cotton for use as a compress or for wrapping a leg injury. Have a small bag of cotton balls and several rolls of gauze. You’ll need at least eight quilted pads for standing bandages, some self-sticking tape wraps (Vetrap), some masking tape for holding wraps and some duct tape for use on feet, or an eye patch.

A bottle of rubbing alcohol is required, as is your favorite non-irritating antiseptic topical dressing. (Be sure this dressing is water soluble…never put a topical dressing on a wound that can’t be easily washed away; the wound may need to be cleansed before suturing.)

You should have a bottle of your favorite liniment for use on sore muscles and to create a bit more circulation in legs to help relieve stretched or pulled tendons and ligaments.

Have a supply of clean rags and towels and soap. Dish soap in a plastic squeeze bottle is handy. A little Vaseline or mineral oil is good as a lubricating agent….and either will work as hoof dressing.

It is a good idea to have some Bute paste handy, but don’t use unless you’ve checked with your vet.

Have a drawing salve such as Icthammol and some type of medicated poultice for cooling inflamed tissue or drawing an abscess.

Epsom salts for soaking feet or even washing off a scrape are handy and last forever.

A bottle of iodine is a must.

Finally, keep a notebook and pencil handy. If a vet gives you directions for treating a wound, write it down. Keep notes of all dates various medications were given.

REVIEW:

Here’s a list of situations that require a call to the vet:

· Profuse bleeding that won't stop.

· Horse can’t breathe, labored breathing or other signs of respiratory problems.

· Choking

· Foaling problems

· Fractures – either suspected or obvious

· Wounds with ragged edges, deep penetration or in need of suturing

· Colic

· Tying Up

· Sudden lameness

· Punctures to the hoof

· Eye injury

· Abnormal vital signs – especially a temperature higher than 102 degrees F.

· Watery diarrhea

· Seizures

EUTHANASIA

The longer you are around horses and the more horses for which you are responsible, the greater the chances of having to make a life-ending and end-of-suffering decision.

Many researchers and animal professionals believe animals are not aware of the future - only the present. If this is true, animals in intense pain, with only some hope of recovery, may also need to be euthanized. Owners need to be prepared to make the decision based on how long the animal will be in pain, if quality of life after recovery will be comfortable and if they can afford the cost of treatment and future care.

We are all different in regard to how much suffering we can handle.

Watching a horse deal with intense pain for hours (or days) is very difficult. If pain killers are giving the horse some relief, and it is known the pain will subside soon, then euthanasia may be avoided.

You or the owner must determine how long to let the horse suffer, especially if the pain killers are not providing relief.

Quality of life must be considered.

Once the pain is controlled the question must be asked, "What kind of life will the horse enjoy?" This question also applies to horses that are not in pain, but may lead a compromised life.

Horses that must be assisted up after lying down may be candidates for euthanasia. Arthritis, weakness or a neurologic disease are some of the causes for losing the ability to stand unaided. It is up to the horse's care givers to decide if the horse is in pain and if they want the responsibility of being constantly available to help the horse stand.

A horse that is down and can't get up risks complications or death. If the incumbent horse is not aided quickly dehydration sets in, internal organs cannot function properly, the digestive system shuts down, muscles become hard and nerves can be damaged. If the horse is struggling he can injure himself.

Wanting to stand and be mobile is a horse's instinct. The inability to stand is a detriment to the quality of life.

An older horse with poor or no teeth and a compromised digestive system should not be allowed to slowly starve to death. Horses are designed to eat forage. Dental problems which do not allow a horse to chew hay and an aging digestive system will lead to decreased intake of nutrients.

The inability to move due to pain or other physical problems can lead to starvation and dehydration. The horse cannot move to eat or drink. He may not be able to compete with other horses for feed offered to a group.

If the horse's owner does not have the money to buy special feed, have the time to feed multiple meals or have room to keep the horse separate from others, then the horse's quality of life is being compromised.

Reoccurring illnesses such as pneumonia, colic and laminitis need to be addressed. Are the illnesses reoccurring quicker than normal? Is the horse recovering fully before the next onset? Is the quality of life decreasing?

With advances in equine medical care we can prolong life. But is it humane? Are we only putting off the inevitable to spare our own feelings?

If the horse owner is willing to assist the older horse when needed, administer supportive medications, provide feed which can be utilized and a safe area, then one last thing must be considered - the will to live.

Observation is the key to recognizing the "will to live". The first sign is usually showing no interest in feed. The favorite treat is refused; the nicker in the morning is absent. There is a loss in interest of what is going on around the barn. The horse will sometimes stand off by himself in a depressed state. Despite medical treatment, special feeds and constant care, it may be "time".

Selling an old horse, giving him away or sending the horse to a rescue center may be options to euthanasia……or a refusal to face responsibility.

The question should be, "What is best for the horse?"

It is hard, but our animal companions deserve to be treated with love and dignity.

A stable manager should have information at hand in case euthanasia is needed. Disposing of the body can be a challenge.

Before deciding to bury a horse you must contact local officials. Depending on the water table and local restrictions it may be against the law to bury a large animal. If there is enough land and all restrictions are met a backhoe will be needed. A hole at least six feet deep must be dug and hydrated lime can be used to help with decomposition.

The drug pentobarbital is a commonly used for euthanasia. This drug can be present in the carcass for years. Animals coming in contact with the body can die. There have been cases of dogs dying after consuming remains of euthanized animals. The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service has documented over 140 cases of bald eagles dying after eating animals that had been euthanized with pentobarbital.

Other options may be a rendering plant or zoo. Usually there is a transport service who will take the body to the location. There is usually a time limit of 24-hours after death. Rendering plants and zoos may not be an option if the horse was given certain types of drugs. Check with the veterinarian.

Some landfills may take the body. There will be fees and paperwork involved. Someone will need to transport the carcass to the landfill.

Cremation may also be considered. This can be very expensive and not available in all areas.

Here is a link to a page the Humane Society of the United States offers. It lists states and some contacts for assistance. Be sure to check to that the information is up-to-date. Click here.

http://www.humanesociety.org/animals/horses/facts/humane_horse_remains_disposal.html

HUMANS

Humans also get injured around horses, and as a stable manager or riding instructor, sooner or later, you are going to have to deal with an accident. The advice offered here is designed to help protect you; you are going to have problems enough due to the accident. Don’t compound your problems.

Humans suffer falls, kicks or being stepped upon.

When a person is stepped upon, it usually isn’t serious, but can be quite painful. Give the person injured some sympathetic attention, and mention that now they know why you insist they wear boots when working around horses.

If a person is kicked by a horse, and it doesn’t appear serious, apply an ice compress and allow the person to sit down and gain their composure. If the kick has caused a laceration, a bone bruise or possibly a fracture, apply an ice compress and allow the person injured to make the decisions about getting immediate medical attention.

If a rider falls, immediately check to see how painful and damaging the fall may have been. If the rider gets up, then let the rider decide about getting medical attention. If the person does not volunteer to remount the horse, do not attempt to force the person to remount; instead suggest they get a physical examination.

If the rider cannot get up or is unconscious, call 911 and get an ambulance immediately.

DO NOT attempt any kind of first aid. Put a blanket or jacket over the injured person to reduce shock. Stay with the injured person until the paramedics arrive and the person is transported to a hospital.

Consult an attorney regarding a consent form for emergency medical, dental or surgical treatment. This is very important if you are responsible for minor children who do not have their legal guardians present.

Check to make sure you have the injured person’s “liability waiver” available. Call your insurance company to report the details of the accident and injury.

Click here to take the quiz

ASSIGNMENT:

1. Send me a list of what is in your medicine chest.

2. Please do research and send a short report (in your own words - do not copy and paste) about the following contagious diseases. In your report include the following - How is it transmitted? What are the symptoms? What initial steps will you take after discovering a symptom or symptoms?

A. Strangles

B. Equine Influenza

C. Equine Herpesvirus – EHV-1

D. Equine Herpesvirus – EHV-4

3. Please do research and send a short report (in your own words - do not copy and paste) about the following equine diseases that are transmitted by a vector (a host that spreads the disease). In your report include the following - How is it transmitted? What are the symptoms? What initial steps will you take after discovering a symptom or symptoms?

A. African Horse Sickness

B. Equine Encephalomyelitis

C. West Nile Disease

D. Rabies

E. Potomac Horse Fever

F. Tetanus

*It is not necessary to be able to diagnosis the diseases (that’s up to your vet), but being familiar with the common equine diseases will make you a better stable manager.

Please send your report to elblazer@horsecoursesonline.com