STABLE MANAGEMENT

By Eleanor Blazer

LESSON THREE

All tack and equipment used on a horse restrains and controls the horse to some extent.

The first restraint which comes to mind is tying the horse.

When tying, use a panic snap or a quick release knot.

The quick release knot is tied by running the loose end of the lead rope through a tie ring or around a tie bar.

Bring the loose end of the lead back and place it against the end of the lead tied to the horse. Hold with your left hand.

With your right hand pick up a portion of the loose end of the rope and make a fold in it. Cross the fold over the two ropes in your left hand and through the loop which has been created.

Use the fingers of your left hand to push the fold through the loop and hold it in position so it can be re-grasped with your right hand. Grasp the fold and pull it through the loop until it is snug. Move the loose end of the rope so that it hangs away from the end of the rope attached to the horse.

Some advocate “horseproofing” the quick release knot by taking the loose end and slipping it back through the loop made by the fold. DON’T DO THIS. THE QUICK RELEASE KNOT IS NO LONGER A QUICK RELEASE.

Care must be taken to tie a horse in a safe place in a safe manner.

1. Do not tie the horse too short. Too short means the horse cannot move his head about freely.

2. Do not tie the horse too low. Tying to anything below the horse’s eye is too low.

3. Whenever possible tie the quick release knot above the horse’s head.

4. Do not tie the horse too long. If a horse can get his head to the ground, the tie rope is too long.

Cross Ties are created by using two ropes, each attached high on the opposite sides of a grooming area, for example. You should just be able to snap the two ropes together when they are stretched toward each other. At this length, it is easy to attach a rope to each side of the horse’s halter.

Cross ties are very popular and they keep a horse from moving around much. But they are also quite unpopular with many horses as they make it difficult for the horse to maintain his balance. Horses get used to cross ties, but no matter how good they get at being cross tied, they will always have difficulty positioning their feet.

Most of the time tack is a mild restraint even when it is used to “enhance the usefulness of the horse.” A bridle is a good example. The bridle has a small degree of restraint while doing much to enhance the usefulness of the horse by allowing us to communicate our desires to him.

There will be situations, however, when special “restraint methods” are required exclusively to restrain the horse.

Most well-educated and trusting horses can be handled without the use of severe restraints.

But there is always that unexpected occurrence when restraint is needed, and without it, disaster results.

The most common example is the use of a lead line with chain over the nose or under the chin.

“I don’t want to hurt the horse….I don’t need it,” is the passionate cry by those with love for horses, but little experience handling them.

Just because the chain is there doesn’t mean you must use it in a severe fashion. Unless the chain is jerked hard, or the horse pulls back, leaps forward or jumps sideways, the chain will simply lie innocently over the nose or under the chin. Experienced horsemen and women know the chain is passive if they want it to be. And because they are experienced handlers, they always lead a horse with the “restraint” in place, ready when needed. Because the restraint is in place, the handler is always prepared for that once in a million moment of disobedience or fear reaction.

“Be prepared” is the Boy Scout motto; it will be adopted by the wise horse handler.

When you need the restraint and it is not available, you have placed the horse and others in danger. In addition, if the horse gets away, you have reinforced his “flight” reflex. The “reinforcement” convinces the horse that jumping, rearing, or pulling back are good ways to avoid unpleasant situations.

Once the resistance, refusal or escape has occurred, you can’t go back and correct it. It is over. You have failed in your responsibility to care for the horse, and the horse has had a dangerous act validated.

PLANNED RESTRAINTS

There are a number of situations when the use of “restraints” is the first choice. Such situations include an emergency where a horse must be restrained quickly to avoid further injury to itself or handlers.

Restraints may be the first choice when a veterinarian is attempting to treat a wound, or when a horse becomes dangerous while being trimmed or shod. (It is never the vet or the horse shoer’s job to teach a horse to stand.) Restraints may also be called for as a first choice when handling broodmares who have been at pasture with foals, or when you have limited manpower and must accomplish “health care” procedures such as deworming. (The use of chemical restraints, such as tranquillizers administered by a veterinarian may be the best choice. Never, under any circumstances, administer a tranquillizer yourself—the liability factor is much too high.)

If properly applied, physical restraints allow a procedure to be finished quickly and without danger for horse or handlers. (Gentle persuasion over a period of time is preferable, except when the “persuasion” becomes coddling and the horse becomes spoiled as too frequently happens.)

Horses which have been allowed to “please their handlers when the feel like it, and refuse their handlers when they feel like it,” are very dangerous horses. Unfortunately there are many such horses; unfortunately such horses usually suffer great abuse at the hands of some macho yahoo who takes it upon himself to “teach this outlaw who’s boss.”

It is better for the horse when his handlers are prudent, using the best restraint for the circumstances whenever it appears a restraint may be needed.

APPLY RESTRAINTS WITH CONVICTION

1. Choose a safe place to work. Restrained horses can act unpredictably, so avoid enclosed places. Be sure there are no obstacles around which could cause injury.

2. Always apply restraints properly and with conviction…..a poorly applied restraint is dangerous. The idea is to keep the horse still—little or no moving and definitely no flight. Attempting to be “kind” to the horse by applying only a little pain is of no value of any kind.

3. Apply restraints slowly, but with purpose. Do not make a big deal of it and do not apply roughly or with “vengeance.” Appling restraints must be done aggressively, but without anger.

4. Be sure all preparations for the procedure to be accomplished with the horse are in place prior to applying the restraint. You do not want the restraint left in place longer than necessary.

5. The person doing the restraining must keep his or her attention on the horse at all times. If you are restraining the horse, you’ll just have to miss out on the gossip of the moment, or the “stitching of a wound;” keep your mind and you eye on the horse.

6. The person doing the restraining should stand on the same side of the horse as the person working on the horse.

7. If the procedure is going to be painful for the horse, be sure a veterinarian has administered an analgesic and a tranquillizer.

BITS USED WHEN WORKING FROM THE GROUND

The most common restraint bit seen today is the “yearling bit,” which is basically just a thick round ring which goes into the mouth by inserting it over the lower jaw. The horse wears a halter as well as carrying the yearling bit.

The true standard in-hand restraint bit has a thin mouthpiece with a downward-facing port. The horse wears a halter as well as this bit, which should be clipped to the halter to limit its severity.

Any bit will help restrain a horse move effectively than a halter alone.

CHAIN LEAD SHANKS

The chain lead shank over the nose or under the chin is the most commonly used restraint. It can be more severe than a bit restraint.

When using the chain lead shank, the method of holding the horse’s attention may be a steady pressure on the lead, or it may be several quick jerks on the lead followed by an immediate release and then the resumption of a steady pressure.

Most show horse handlers prefer the chain under the chin as that is the approved method for showmanship in hand classes. There is also no chance of leaving any kind of permanent lump on the horse’s nose as can be done with the chain over the nose. Cuts and scrapes to the lower jaw bone heal quickly and are seldom of a serious nature.

The chain over the nose, if used judiciously, will not leave a lump on the nose, but can cut or scrape the skin. A cut or scrape on the top of the nose is very obvious, but seldom serious.

If the horse has become dangerous to himself or others, or if it is imperative the horse hold completely still, then putting the chain under the upper lip and across the upper gum—a lip chain—is usually very effective. A lip chain should be held with pressure. However, horses will often initially object strenuously to the lip chain, and it may be necessary to give the chain several strong jerks to get the horse’s attention on you. The horse’s gum can be cut and often bleeds. This is not usually a serious matter, as mouth injuries heal rapidly. If it is necessary to use the lip chain harshly, do so and get it over. Once the horse submits to the restraint it is seldom necessary to “reschool” him.

A horse which has experienced restraint with a lip chain will usually stand quietly immediately upon its placement. A lip chain can be a very effective restraint.

CHUTES AND WASH RACKS

Chutes and wash racks are generally very dangerous as forms of restraint when working with horses. Horses, unlike cattle, panic in confined places and can be severely injured by “fighting” a chute or rack. If a horse goes down in a chute or rack, and then panics, the resulting injuries can result in the need for euthanasia.

If a horse is going to be placed in a chute for a particular procedure it is recommended the horse be tranquillized.

Most wash racks for horses are an excellent place to get a horse injured.

Since most wash racks are simply a pipe bar with no solid sides, the horse can easily get his legs outside the bar, can try to jump over the bar, or duck under the bar. Too often the wash rack has a cement floor. Cement is dangerous for horses at any time, and much more so when wet. Refuse to use dangerous wash racks, and avoid wash racks and chutes as a form of restraint.

Tying a horse in a wash rack, even one with a tail gate, is a fooling mistake. If a horse panics, is tied hard, the wreck is going to be serious.

The best chute for horses is one that is solid-sided and as unrestrictive as possible—a chest high bar in front and a stifle high gate behind--with no overhead structure.

TWITCHES

A skin twitch is nothing more than grabbing a fold of skin, usually on the side of the neck, and squeezing it tightly while pressing the tips of the fingers hard into the horse’s skin. A skin twitch, if done by a very strong person, can be fairly effective.

A more effective “skin twitch” is created by taking the soft tissue just above the horse eyelid and pinching it between the thumb and index finger. Use your fingernails to achieve maximum effect.

Sometimes you can grab the horse’s upper lip and twist or squeeze it with some effectiveness. For the person of average strength this is seldom very effective.

If only a “calming effect” is desired, then you can feel around the center of the horse’s upper lip until you find the “soft spot”, generally right in the center of the lip. This is an acupuncture point and if you press your finger with sufficient force into the soft spot, the horse will usually stand quiet and relax. This is not considered an effective restraint, but is mentioned because mechanical twitches work on this same acupuncture point.

A mechanical twitch is a device which screws up the skin of the top lip. There is a lot of question as to just how the twitch actually works. Some say it is simply a distraction, some credit the acupuncture point and some say the release of endorphins calms the horse.

Why they work may not be exactly know, but the fact that they work is well documented. When applied correctly, they are extremely effective.

The most common mechanical twitch is a loop of cord or chain attached to a heavy wooded handle, usually an axe handle or very long hammer handle. The loop is eased over the horse’s upper lip and the handle is twisted quickly to get a good grip on the lip.

There is somewhat of an art to applying this twitch. If applied too roughly the horse will hate the procedure and want to fight the handler. Too loose and twitch is ineffective and actually becomes a dangerous weapon which if flung about by the horse can injure the horse or the handler.

Practice applying the mechanical twitch correctly. If misapplied several times a horse will quickly resent the twitch and can become extremely defensive, striking or rearing to avoid it. Never stand directly in front of the horse when applying the twitch as horses will often strike.

There is also the “humane” twitch which isn’t any more humane than the loop of cord. The “humane” is a hinged “V” which clamps over the upper lip and is then either held in place or tied in place.

“Humane” Twitch

Another form of the “twitch” is the “ear twitch.”

The handler grasps the horse’s ear and twists just a bit while squeezing finger tips into the ear in a pulsating manner.

The handler should never pull at the ear, but instead should actually press downward on the ear.

If done properly, the horse will not be ear shy.

HOBBLES

Hobbles are the simplest of limb restraints.

Hobbles are generally two loops of leather which buckle around the pastern of each front leg. The loops of leather are connected by a short chain (which supposedly keeps the horse from moving), or a longer chain which allows a horse to move about. Hobbled horses will move about regardless on the length of connecting chain.

Knee hobbles are applied above the knee and are more restrictive than the standard pastern hobbles. Horse will still get about, and can even strike with both front legs at the same time.

Spider hobbles, in my opinion, are quite dangerous and I do not recommend them. A spider hobble consists of straps around all four legs. The straps are connected by chains while allow the horse to stand in a normal position, but keeps him from moving. If a horse decides to fight spider hobbles the scene can quickly become a disaster.

Kicking or “breeding” hobbles are mild and quite safe to be used in any situation where prevention of kicking is desired.

Kicking hobbles consist of a strap around each hock. The strap is connected by a cord which runs through a pulley on a neck collar. The horse can move forward in a normal manner, but can’t kick.

SIDELINE OR SCOTCH HOBBLE

A sideline or Scotch hobble is constructed with a 25-foot cotton rope and is a very useful hind leg restraint.

The simplest form is to loop the rope around the neck and tie with a knot which will not tighten. Then take the long end of the rope and loop it one time around the hind pastern. I recommend you pass the rope from the medial side of the pastern, come around the pastern and out on the lateral side. Once the loop is in place, take the long end of the rope back to the neck collar. You can then raise the hind leg to the height desired by pulling the long end through the neck collar and securing it.

Some sidelines have leather straps which go around the fetlocks and nylon webbing neck collars.

The key to successful use is being sure the horse is standing square and can balance on three legs.

KNEE STRAPS

Leg lifts and knee straps are very handy, although knee straps can cause a horse to fight pretty hard.

To keep most mature horses still, you can simply lift a front leg. Grasp the leg around the pastern and hold tightly. A horse which is not particularly fearful of the procedure taking place will usually stand very quietly as long as one front leg is held up.

Young horses, or horses which are going to give you trouble about the work to be performed may benefit from a knee strap.

A stirrup leather will work for the strap. Buckle the strap in a figure eight fashion between the fetlock of the raised leg and the forearm. The strap should go around the pastern and pulled relatively snug.

I do not recommend the use of knee straps. It is easy for a horse to fight and fall with a knee strap. If you intend to use one, work on a grassy area or very soft ground. Horses going down on hard ground can chip a knee, hit their heads or injury themselves in other ways.

Another form of knee straps can be created with a cotton rope. Tie the rope to the pastern, and then wrap around the forearm, holding the loose end of the rope. By holding the rope, you can release the restraint easily if it becomes necessary.

When a restraint is necessary, it is necessary. Use it and use it properly so the horse receives the benefit of treatment or other health care or grooming procedure.

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ASSIGNMENT:

1. Make a video of you tying a quick release knot.

Please load the video to a video hosting site such as YouTube or Photobucket. Send the links to: elblazer@horsecoursesonline.com