Role and Responsibility of Riding Instructor

Lesson Two

Understanding and selecting equipment is one of the most important factors in having students experience success during a lesson.

In this lesson we’ll discuss saddles, the components that make up a saddle, safety and maintenance of saddles, and correct saddle fit for both horse and rider. We’ll examine saddle pads and their intended use, as well as how they can cause poor saddle fit. We’ll review the bridle, different types and uses of bits and types and uses of reins. We’ll talk about all of the extras: martingales, draw reins, spurs, crops, helmets, and riding boots.

There are many different types of saddles. Let’s review two of the most common: the western saddle and the flat saddle. (In the USA the flat saddle is commonly referred to as an English saddle.) Both types have unique descriptive terms and are designed with a different rider position in mind.

The Western Saddle

There is only one type of western saddle, right? Wrong! As horsemen and events have become more specialized, saddles have followed suit. This specialization allows the horse and rider to perform in different ways and at their absolute best. As we discuss the different types of saddles, we’ll also investigate variations and styles.

The core of the saddle is the tree.

The tree is the solid portion that the saddle is built around. The tree is most commonly made of fiberglass, aluminum or wood covered in rawhide. The type and shape of the tree determines how it will fit a horse.

The underneath part of the tree has two main parts: the bars, which are the lateral or side portions of the tree and the gullet that is the arched portion of the tree. The degree of “arch” and the width of the bars determine the fit.

The most common western tree is a “semi quarter” tree. This will fit most horses.

For a horse that is very broad across the withers or mutton withered (flat and wide), a “full quarter” tree is usually needed.

Small narrow horses, such as the Arabian, need a narrow tree, commonly known as an Arab tree.

The top portion of the tree has four basic parts, these are: the horn, which is what I recommend holding on to if your horse begins frolicking, the fork or the swell, which is the top portion of the gullet, the seat, obviously the area where the rider sits, and the Cantle which is the raised area behind the rider’s seat.

The tree is only the framework to the saddle. It is not unbreakable. If a horse rolls with a saddle on or the saddle receives blunt force trauma it is possible for the tree to break or crack, rendering the saddle useless. A saddle with a broken tree must never be used on a horse, as it no longer works as designed and the creation of a very sore-backed horse is inevitable.

To check a saddle for a broken tree, place one hand around the horn and the other on the cantle--try to “fold” the saddle upward. If there is a lot of movement, there is a good chance the tree has been broken. If the saddle merely gives slightly, then the tree is not broken.

The “skeleton” of the saddle is covered with leather.

The underneath portion of the saddle is typically covered with sheepskin which is basically protection and comfort for the horse.

Added to the saddle is “hardware” such as the “D” fixtures or “rigging”, to which the latigo and billet attach to secure the cinch. The stirrup is attached with the fender, and the leather behind and below the cantle is referred to as the skirt.

Some saddles have a second cinch that is positioned below the cantle. The second cinch keeps the back portion of the saddle from tipping upward when a rider dallys a rope to the saddle horse to stop a steer, jerk a calf or pull a log.

The construction of the fork, saddle horn and seat of the saddle will vary depending upon the type of saddle.

For riding cutting horses, the fork of the saddle is high and the horn is more narrow and taller. This allows the rider to hold the horn and brace himself against the fork when the horse is working a cow. The cutting rider sits closer to the front of the saddle and the seat usually allows free movement of the rider.

The reining saddle has a wider lower set horn, the forks are not as tall as that on the cutter and seat is deeper to allow more stability for the rider. The fenders of the reining saddle swing forward and back freely, allowing the rider to balance himself during a sliding stop by moving his feet forward.

The roping saddle has a wide and slightly taller horn and is very strong. The fenders of the saddle are set slightly forward and have little forward or backward swing making the stirrups steady when the roper stands to throw his loop. The seat is deep, and, of course, the saddle has a second cinch. The stirrups of the roping saddle are wider and longer than other saddles. This is helpful to the calf roper when they need to dismount quickly without getting a foot caught. The roping saddle is the most sturdy and heaviest western saddle.

There are two types of western pleasure saddles. The first is a general, multi-purpose saddle; a saddle a weekend rider or a trail rider would find most useful. This type of saddle is built primarily to be cost effective. The seat is usually average in depth and the fenders are usually set slightly forward. The quality of leather used on this type of saddle is usually not as high as that used on a specialty saddle.

The second type of pleasure saddle is that used in the show pen. These saddles are often custom built, use the highest quality leather and are most often hand tooled. They are accented with sterling silver plates and conchos.

There are two types of seat for the show saddle; the pleasure seat, which is not as deep as the roper, and the horsemanship seat, which pushes the rider’s pelvis forward slightly.

The fenders of the show saddle are hung almost directly beneath the seat to allow the rider’s leg to hang directly below the hip.

The barrel or game saddle is the western saddle’s version of a race saddle. It is built with weight in mind. The skirt is shorter, the seat is very deep and the saddle is very lightweight.

The fenders of the game saddle are very loose, swinging forward and back very easily. The horn of this saddle is a little narrower to allow the rider to hold on easily when making a sharp turn.

The last type of western saddle you need to be aware of is the training saddle. The training saddle is most like the show saddle, except it is made in plain leather and has D hardware attached to the front and behind the cantle. These D fixtures are used for bitting-up horses. These saddles are generally a bit lighter; the fenders are very loose and often made with “rough-out” leather. Rough-out leather is not smooth; it resembles suede. This rougher surface will give more “grip” to the rider’s seat and leg, and that can be of benefit when riding a young or spooky horse. The training saddle is made to be very durable and comfortable.

Regardless of the type, there are a few key areas that need to be checked frequently to help ensure safety.

Both the off side billet or latigo and the cinching latigo should checked for cracking or excessive wear. Both areas will become damp with sweat almost every time they are used. Overtime the leather may become dry and begin to crack. A well-used saddle may show worn areas where the latigo leather has become thin; whether worn or damaged, the latigo should be exchanged.

The cinch should receive a visual inspection every single time the saddle is used. Check to see the cinch is in good condition; no broken pieces, and no questionable wear patterns.

PARTS OF THE WESTERN SADDLE

Proper care of the saddle is the best way to ensure it will continue to serve safely.

All saddles to should be conditioned at least a couple of times a year. This practice will allow you to thoroughly inspect the saddle for potential problems, not to mention the fact that clean equipment will portray a positive image for your business.

All western saddle seats are measured in inches.

To measure the size of the seat place one end of the tape measure at the end of the seat by the pommel, measure to the start of the cantle, the total of inches is the seat size of the saddle. Western saddles will range from 13 to 18 inches.

To determine if the saddle properly fits the rider, observe the rider from the side. If the rider has never ridden before or not very often, then it may be necessary to adjust the rider’s position before making a determination. With the rider sitting in the proper position, she should be able to place her fist between the back of their seat and the cantle. If she cannot do this, the saddle is too small. If she can fit more than a fist between the seat and the cantle, the saddle is too big.

If a saddle is too small several things may occur:

The rider may not be able to able to maintain a balanced position. The rider’s constant unbalanced movement often results in the horse having a sore back. The cantle is not designed for the rider to brace against for balance; it is designed to close the seat of the saddle.

When a saddle is too large, there is too much “play” in the rider’s seat. The rider will be unable to stay in the balanced position, instead sliding forward and back as the motion of the horse changes.

Generally saddle purchases are made without much understanding and purpose. As the riding instructor, it is your responsibility to see to it the saddle fits both the rider and the horse. Neglecting this responsibility will prevent you from providing quality education.

Price is most often the primary factor in choosing a saddle. This is a very unfortunate mistake. Cheap saddles lack both craftsmanship and quality materials.

Do not let your students or their horses suffer the complex problems caused by poor saddle quality and fit; in the long run it reflects directly on your reputation as a riding instructor.

Not all saddles are created equal; each saddle has definite purpose. Choose a saddle for your client, or be sure she purchases one, that allows you to give a great riding lesson. Do not let the quality of your work be tarnished by poor equipment.

Flat Saddles

As with the western saddle, there are different types of flat saddles, each with its own purpose.

As you can easily see, any flat saddle has less leather and is a lot lighter than the western saddle; that doesn’t mean the craftsmanship involved in building the saddle is any less.

PARTS OF THE FLAT SADDLE

Just like its counterpart, the flat saddle also has a tree. The flat saddle also has a gullet, bars and a cantle.

The front portion of the flat saddle is the pommel, the back the cantle. Underneath the seat and cantle are two pad like structures, one on the right and one on the left of center; these are designed to sit on either side of the horse’s spine. These “pads” are referred to as the panels.

The area between the seat and the pommel is known as the twist. Behind the seat area is the cantle. To the side of the pommel and the twist is a small flap of leather known as the skirt, underneath the skirt is the stirrup bar; the larger piece of leather below the skirt is the known as the saddle flap. The saddle flap’s placement, as well as its length will be designed to aid the specific riding discipline selected.

The “leathers” hang from the stirrup bar and the stirrups hang on the leathers. The leathers come in various lengths and widths and are easily adjustable to fit the rider’s needs.

It is important to note the width of the leather determines how easily the iron is stabilized. The widths vary from ½ inch to 1 inch. The leather of the ½ inch width requires more skill from the rider to stabilize his or her leg. The ¾ inch leather requires an effort from the rider in learning how to stabilize the leg, yet does not give the feeling of being too thick or in the way as often does the 1 inch leather.

On the end of the leathers are the irons or stirrups.

Most Hunt Seat riders refer to the stirrup as the iron. It is simply a tradition, and Hunt Seat riding is definitely a discipline that has deep roots in tradition. As part of the Hunt Seat tradition it is important to note that the leathers, irons, and girth are commonly referred to as “fittings”. Fittings are typically sold separately when purchasing a saddle.

Under the saddle flap are three pieces of leather, the billets. The girth buckles to these billets. (A girth generally has two buckles and may be buckled to the two billets of choice—most commonly the first and third…the second being kept in reserve.)

Threaded through the billets is a flap of leather called is the “buckle guard.” The buckle guard is designed to do exactly what its name implies; it lies over the buckles and keeps the buckles from becoming accidentally opened and interfering with the rider’s leg. To the front of the skirt and to the top portion of the saddle flap are the D attachments. These Ds are smaller than those found on the western saddle. Their purpose is to allow the attachment of accessories such as a breastplate or standing martingale.

The girth of the flat saddle has elastic on at least one side and attaches to the saddle with buckles.

The side of the girth without elastic buckles attaches to the right side of the saddle, the elastic side to the left. The elastic provides a means to stretch the girth and allows the girth to be tightened easily. Some girths have elastic on both sides and some have three buckles verses the standard two. The girths are typically made of leather; however it is not uncommon to see girths with fleece.

The saddle seat saddle is the most unique type of flat saddle. Click here for picture. The seat is very flat and its design places the rider substantially behind the withers. It is not uncommon for the saddle seat saddle to have a cut out for high withered horses. This type of saddle is referred to as a cutback.

The placement of the leathers places the rider’s leg more forward than the other types of flat saddles. Ultimately the saddle is designed for flat work use, not for jumping. Saddlebreds, Morgans, Tennessee Walking Horses, and Arabians are common breeds you will see being ridden saddle seat.

The close contact saddle is another common flat saddle. Click here for picture. This saddle offers the rider just what its name implies, close contact. This saddle may be used for riding on the flat or for jumping.

Riders competing in classes such as hunter under saddle or hunt seat equitation will choose a close contact saddle with the flaps placed under the seat of the saddle. This placement enables the rider to ride with a slightly longer iron and keep her heel underneath her seat.

Jumpers will choose a close contact saddle with the flap placed farther in front of the seat. This type of saddle is also commonly referred to as a jumping saddle. The placement of the saddle flap in this manner allows the rider to ride with a more flexed knee and a shorter leather. The shorter leather causes an increased angle at the knee; the forward flap absorbs this increased angle.

The seat of the “jumping” saddle will also be deeper than that used for flat work. The deeper seat provides more stability.

The all-purpose saddle is the one that does it all. Click here for picture. It has longer flaps than the close contact, a deep seat and knee rolls. Riders new to the sport will often choose this saddle for its versatility.

The all-purpose saddle can be used for flat work, jumping, pleasure and trail riding. These saddles are usually very cost efficient.

If you plan on providing horses and tack, this saddle is an excellent choice for economy and options.

The dressage saddle has the longest saddle flaps. Click here for picture. The dressage rider will use a very long iron, which allows maximum contact with the horse’s side. The body position of the dressage rider mimics that of the western rider. The hip angle is very open and the rider uses a “deep” seat. The deeper seat and the maximum leg contact allow the rider to communicate the most intricate cues to the horse.

All flat saddle seats are measured in inches. Starting at the pommel, run the tape measure to the cantle to determine seat size. Flat saddle seat sizes range from 14 to 18 inches.

Saddle Fit

To determine if the flat saddle fits the rider, follow the same guidelines as discussed for the western saddle. In addition you will have to evaluate the length of the flap. The flap should extend about mid way between the riders knee and ankle. If the flap is too long, the rider will be unable to properly use her leg.

The safety check for the flat saddle should include a visual inspection of the girth. Check each end of the girth to insure the stitching near the buckles looks solid and has not become worn or compromised. Check the elastic to make sure it has not become worn or started to tear.

The leathers should also be inspected for cracks and thinning of leather, especially where the irons rest. As a general rule it is a good idea to clean a flat saddle more frequently than a western saddle. Flat saddles accumulate more sweat from the horse and thus require more attention.

Western Saddle Pads

There are so many variations of saddle pads, it’s impossible to discuss them all. In choosing a saddle pad you first need to consider the purpose. Primarily the saddle pad is to protect the horse’s back, while it absorbs sweat. The saddle pad also protects the saddle, and in some cases it may aid in fitting the saddle.

Felt pads are simply a piece of one inch felt 32 inches wide and 34 inches long. These pads were very popular during the seventies and the eighties and are still used quite a bit today. The advantage to the felt pad is that it is very durable and difficult to destroy. The drawback is it is difficult to clean, and some horses get the hair rubbed off in the loin area.

Neoprene pads are among the newer “hot” items. They are usually one-inch thick rubber type substance. The pad is very sturdy and absorbs concussion well. The major advantage to neoprene is it can be hosed off and kept clean. The disadvantage is no absorption of sweat, and some horses may experience an increase in heat production.

Wool-back pads are nice basic saddle pads. They are made from synthetic wool and look a lot like a fleece pad. These pads absorb sweat readily and do not irritate the horse’s back in anyway. The wool-back pad is usually used with a Navajo to add a little more thickness. The wool-back can be washed fairly easily; the draw back is hair will become embedded in the pad and in time will not be able to be removed. The build up of hair may rub on the horse’s back and create bald spots.

Air ride pads are popular for western saddles. The air ride pad has a fleece type bottom that is in contact with the horse’s back, while the center of the pad is made up of air bubbles, much like bubble wrap used for shipping breakable items. The top of the pad is a simple woven cloth.

The air ride is great for absorbing concussion, while the fleece absorbs sweat. To make it more attractive, it is easily washed and very durable.

Therapeutic pads are also available for western saddles. There are many different types and each has its own claim to fame. Some therapeutic pads utilize gel, which absorbs concussion and distributes weight more evenly across the horse’s back. Some therapeutic pads have extra padding in specific areas, such as at the withers.

Be very careful in choosing a therapeutic pad; be sure you understand how it functions and what will occur when a horse wears it.

Saddle pads may help saddles achieve a perfect fit by compensating for a horses conformational imperfection. For example, a horse with a very high wither may benefit from a pad that has a cut out in the wither area. A horse that has a sway back may benefit from a wedge pad. The wedge pad will level the saddle and alleviate excess pressure on the loin.

A word of caution about “padding up”: think about saddle fitting like you would about fitting a shoe to your foot. You have to have the right kind of socks on or your feet get sore. If you were to wear to thin a sock, you might get blisters. If you wear socks that are too thick, they take up too much room and the shoe feels too tight and uncomfortable. Wear the right socks and everything is great. Your horse feels the same about his saddle pad. Don’t make an uneducated decision about what pad to use. Know how it will affect your saddle fit.

Flat Saddle Pads

The flat saddle pad is unique in that not one pad fits.

The type of saddle will determine the type of pad used.

Each type of flat saddle pad is cut to fit the shape of the saddle.

The close contact saddle or jumping saddle is the smallest of the flat saddles. A pad made for the close contact saddle will not properly fit an all-purpose saddle or a dressage saddle. The all-purpose flat saddle pad is also “cut to fit”. The dressage saddle pad is usually a square pad and not cut to fit the outline of the saddle.

Fleece or wool-back pads: same pluses and minuses as with a western pad. These pads are available to fit all saddles. Currently on some of the open horse show circuits as well as breed circuits these pads are not cut to fit the shape of the saddle seat. Instead they are square under the seat to provide room for the attachment of the exhibitor’s number. The reasoning behind this is to provide the judge with the opportunity to easily view the number of the exhibitor without having to walk toward the rail to view the rider’s number her back.

In the hunter jumper circuit numbers are still worn on the rider’s hunt coat.

Air ride pads are available for flat saddles.

Felt pads are available for flat saddles, however they are seldom seen. It has been my experience that a felt pad is too stiff and rigid for use under a flat saddle, and often inhibits the rider’s “feel”.

Therapeutic pads are available for all types of flat saddles. These pads can be useful for horses that compete in extremely demanding events such as jumping or cross-country. Therapeutic pads offer extra absorption of concussive forces and help soften and distribute the weight of the rider. When selecting a therapeutic pad read the manufacturer’s claims about what the pad does and what it doesn’t do, look at the price of the pad and make your own decision as to it value.

Riser pads or inserts are typically made of rubber or foam. A riser pad does just what it says: it raises or lifts the back of the saddle. While the riser pad may level the saddle appearance, additional pressure is put on the front of the saddle and can quickly cause a sore back. Before using a riser pad, reevaluate the fit of the saddle being used.

Fitting the Saddle

Doesn’t one size fit all? What would it matter if didn’t quite fit perfectly?

One size does not fit all, and it is a big deal if the saddle doesn’t fit properly.

A poor fitting saddle can and will cause a horse to not only become sore in his back, but in is body as well. The horse’s body wasn’t truly designed to carry us. His spine is being pulled down by everything underneath it. Then we put weight on top of it.

As if that isn’t enough of a problem, how do you think he’ll feel if the saddle doesn’t fit his back?

With the horse standing on level ground place the saddle pad over the withers and slightly forward. Next place the saddle on the pad. Slide the saddle and pad backward until they seem to settle into a natural position behind the withers. Ideally we want the cantle of the saddle to be level with the pommel, it should not appear as if the saddle is going down hill.

The gullet of the saddle will still be slightly over the withers. The girth will be a few inches behind the elbow of the horse. Now lift the pad up into the gullet of the saddle, I like to refer to this action as making room for the horse’s neck.

Lift the saddle pad into the gullet of the saddle.

You should be able to fit two to three fingers easily between the saddle pad and the withers. If this is not possible then the tree is probably too wide for the horse. A tree that is too wide will apply direct pressure to the horse’s withers, and can create sores. It will definitely inhibit the horse’s movement and the horse attitude, making teaching with that horse very difficult.

If you are able to fit your entire hand between the withers and the gullet, then the saddle is too narrow. A tree that is too narrow will have a pinching effect on the horse’s back; inevitably causing pain and the horse’s willingness to perform.

If the horse is not comfortable, you’ll have lots of difficult teaching a good lesson. If the horse isn’t happy, no one is going to be happy.

Now cinch the saddle, but not tightly.

Slide your hand under the pad on the horse’s shoulder just under the pommel. Repeat this process on the other side. (Hint: make sure the horse is standing somewhat square.) The pressure you feel should be the same.

Slide your hand under the rear portion of the skirt just shy of seat of the saddle. You should be able to feel the saddle in contact with the horse’s back. If the saddle is not in contact with the back, there will be excessive pressure on the horse’s shoulders and possibly on the loin. The saddle should contact the back all along the horse’s side.

Now ride the horse for at least fifteen minutes. Be very aware of his behavior. If he is pinning his ears or swishing his tail excessively, the saddle may be uncomfortable.

When you remove the saddle note the sweat pattern on the horse’s back. If there are dry spots, there are saddle fit issues.

As a horse develops and ages it becomes necessary to re-fit the horse. As the horse’s body changes there will be changes to the fit of the saddle. Just because the saddle fit when he was five doesn’t mean it will fit the horse when he is nine.

The Western Bridle

There are three major pieces that comprise a bridle: the headstall, the bit and the reins. For bridles that carry a curb bit there is also a chin strap.

It may seem redundant to discuss the pieces of the bridle; however I am continually amazed how many people do not know the parts of the bridle. You should teach it in one of your very first lessons, then test the student’s knowledge several times.

The headstall itself has several different pieces and there are many variations of types of western headstalls. For simplicity sake we will discuss three, the brow band headstall, the single/double ear headstall and the split ear headstall.

The brow band headstall is so named because the piece of leather that lies in front of the ears is termed the brow band. The piece of leather that lies behind the ears is referred to as the crown piece.

The crown piece offers attachment and adjustability for the cheek pieces. At the bottom of check pieces, there is an attachment device for the bit. There are several ways the bit may be attached. There may be water ties, or pieces of leather that run thru the double backed cheek piece. Sometimes there are buckles used. There may be concho screws used. (A word of caution about concho screws: they do become loose in time, and it is necessary to check them frequently to avoid the bit falling from the headstall.

Brow band headstalls are commonly used for bridles with snaffle bits or hackamores. We will discuss different bits later in this lesson.

The single ear headstall also has a crown piece and cheek pieces. There is not band across the brow. A single leather piece attached to the crown piece encircles one ear. The ear-piece is moveable and can be adjusted for a comfortable fit. The ear-piece traditionally encircles the right ear.

When there is an ear-piece around each ear, it is a double-ear headstall. The ear-pieces do slide on the crown piece and can be adjusted for a comfortable fit. This design allows for more detailed placement of silver barrels and braiding.

Single ear or double ear headstalls are commonly used for bridles that carry a curb bit.

The split ear headstall resembles the single ear headstall. The difference is the hole for the ear is not adjustable, but is instead a sewn piece of leather or literally a split in the crown piece allowing for insertion of the ear. The problem that occurs with this headstall arises with the need for adjustment; there virtually is no adjustment.

SPLIT EAR HEADSTALL

The chin strap or curb strap is a piece of leather or chain which attaches to the bit and lies underneath the horse’s chin. If a chin strap is made of leather the intensity or pressure is less than if the chin strap was made of chain. When we discuss curb bits we will talk more specifically about the role of the curb strap.

There are four basic types of reins used for the western bridle.

1. The romal reins are comprised of one single rein attaching to each side of the bit. At the center of the reins is a long single braided leather piece with a “popper” on the end—this is the romal.

Romal reins that are made of leather and are hand braided. The type of braiding is referenced by the number of plaits. A basic braid romal rein will be 12 or 14 plait. A 16-plait romal rein is a little thicker and heavier.

Regardless of the number plaits involved in the making of the reins, they may be made solely of leather or may have rawhide woven around them or silver barrels placed around the leather. The length of the romal rein varies depending upon what event they are used for. Working cow horse riders use a 54-inch rein. Riders competing in trail classes use a 58 or 60-inch rein.

Another factor that determines the length of rein is the length of the horse’s neck—long neck, long rein.

The proper way to hold a romal rein is to have one hand closed around the rein portion with the rider’s thumb on top. The hand should be held in the same manner as if you were eating an ice cream cone. The other hand holds the tail of the rein, and usually rests on the rider’s leg. The hands should be no closer than 16 inches on the reins. This position allows the rein hand to move freely with out “hanging up” on tension created by having a shorter distance between the hands.

Romal reins are also available in round harness leather, braided rope and regular rope. These reins are substantially lighter than the braided reins, but are sufficient for the weekend or trail rider.

2. The single rein is another common rein used with the western bridle. It is very similar to that used on standard hunt seat bridles, but is usually shorter in length. The single rein is just what it implies, one end of the rein attaches to one side of the bit and the other end of the rein attaches to the other side of the bit. These reins are available in rope, leather, braided leather, or nylon.

The events that use the single rein include roping and “games”. Trail riders also like to use the single rein since it eliminates the possibility of accidentally dropping one rein when out on trail.

3. Split reins are the most popular type of rein used with a western bridle. Two reins make up split reins. One rein attaches to one side of the bit and the other rein attaches to the other.

Split reins are used with snaffles and curb bits. They may be held with two hands or one. If split reins were held with one hand, the rider’s palm would be facing downward toward the neck of the horse, one rein would be held between the thumb and the index finger with the other rein being held between the index finger and the third finger.

In the show ring it is only permissible to have one finger between the reins, and the reins are carried on the side of the horse corresponding to the hand being used by the rider……right hand, right side, left hand, left side.

When the reins are held with two hands the tail of the reins should cross over the horse’s neck and both reins are held in each hand.

The highest quality split reins are made from harness leather. Latigo leather split reins are also available. The widths available are ½ inch, 5/8 inch and ¾ inch.

The ends of the reins that attach to the bit may utilize water ties, concho screws or buckles. A word of caution about reins that use buckles: if you use a running martingale, the buckles may catch on the rings of the martingale, thus trapping the horse. This will not happen with reins that use water ties or concho screws. Water ties are by far the best way to secure reins to the bit.

4. The final type of reins to consider are draw reins. Draw reins do exactly what they imply, they draw the horse’s head toward the chest.

The draw rein may be a single rein or two reins. Attachment is to the side rings or the cinch or to the Ds at the middle of the cinch under the horse’s chest. The rein then goes from attachment through the snaffle bit cheek piece (or the curb rein attachment point) and back to the rider’s hands.

When the rider sets her hands, there is no direct contact with the bit…instead the indirect contact of the rein forces flexion of the horse’s neck and poll.

Only a very experienced rider should use draw reins. Do not try to teach a beginning rider while draw reins are in place. Used improperly, the draw rein can cause a horse to feel trapped and behave in ways that can cause serious injury. When choosing to use draw reins always take into account the temperament of the horse, experience of the rider and the choice of the bit. These reins are not intended for the beginning rider!

The Hunt Seat Bridle

Hunt Seat riding is deeply rooted in tradition, so it is no surprise that all Hunt Seat bridles components are essentially the same. The Hunt Seat bridle has a crown piece, check piece, throatlatch and brow band just as the western counter part. But it also has a noseband which is attached to the bridle.

The area where the bit is attached to the bridle is significantly different than that of the western bridle. It has a small cut in the leather that fits over a bent piece of metal sewn into the leather. The Hunt Seat bridle has another unique trait, “keepers.” “Keepers” are loops of leather designed to hold the “tails” of the bridle. The tails are the pieces that allow bridle length adjustments.

The reins of the Hunt Seat bridle may be all leather with a braiding interwoven, or leather with rubber in the area of the hands. Hunt Seat reins may have a small buckle where they join at the rider’s hands. They are available in many different lengths; the size of the horse and the event determine the choice of length.

Jumping horses typically require less rein length than a hunter under saddle horse. A pony would also need a shorter rein.

Bits

It seems from the beginning of time man has been determined to reinvent the wheel so speak. The variations and promises of bits are so numerous one would assume horsemanship is not needed.

There are only two basic types of bits: the snaffle, and the curb. One is not superior to the other, neither work miracles. Both can be effective in communicating with the horse with the proper training of the rider.

The purpose of the bit is simple, it gives added control to the rider, and it also gives an opportunity to create a refined line of communication.

Snaffle bits are those bits that have a direct action on the horse’s mouth. The reins attach opposite the mouthpiece, there is no poll action and no curb action. The bit pressure is applied to the corners and bars of the mouth. Whatever pressure is applied to the rein is applied equally through the snaffle to the horse’s mouth.

There are several different styles of snaffles available, all determined by the discipline of riding, education level of the horse and education level of the rider.

The cheek pieces of the snaffle are available with four different types. The reins attach to the cheek piece that can be “O”, “D”, eggbutt or full check.

The “O” slides through the mouthpiece. All the others are fixed cheek pieces and will not rotate. The “O” may pinch the corner of the horse’s mouth as it slides through the mouthpiece. If this occurs the use of bit guards may be of benefit. Bit guards are round pieces of rubber that lay between the side of the horse’s mouth and the “O”.

It is important to note that horses of any discipline may use any of the snaffles listed.

Mouthpieces of the snaffle may be one, two or three pieces. Some of the types of mouthpieces available are: smooth--the bar stock, which is the actual piece in the horse’s mouth, is smooth, it is slightly wider toward the corners. Smooth snaffles are used for breaking colts, for horses with very sensitive mouths or for hunter and jumper horses.

Twisted snaffle: the bar stock of the twisted snaffle is comprised of one large piece twisted to two smaller pieces of bar stock. The degree of severity of the twisted wire depends upon the size of the bar stock used and the shape of it. Round bar stock is less severe than square bar stock.

Covered or wrapped snaffles: these are smooth mouthpieces that are wrapped in plastic or leather, increasing the diameter of the bit. Usually, the larger the diameter of the mouthpiece, the less severe the bit; the smaller the diameter the more severe the bit. This is true, only if the bit fits the horse’s mouth.

Before selecting any bit, you should measure the width of the horse’s mouth, determine the amount of tongue the horse has and determine the depth of palate for each horse.

Kimberwick bits: Kimberwicks are used in flat saddle riding.

The Kimberwick mouthpieces include smooth as well as ones with a port. A port is an elevated “U” shaped piece of bar stock in the center of the bit. The Kimberwick has two rein attachment points…one opposite the mouthpiece and one below, allowing the bit to be used as a snaffle, or a curb. If it is used as curb, it then needs a curb strap.

Because the Kimberwick can be used as a snaffle or a curb, it is a nice choice for riders who are just learning to ride.

A curb bit has the reins attach below the mouthpiece. It is a lever action bit. When the rein is moved backward, the shank of the bit moves backward, rotating around the mouthpiece, which is the fulcrum of the lever. In doing this there is pressure applied to the horse’s mouth by the mouthpiece of the bit, pressure to the chin groove by the chin strap and pressure to the poll by the crown piece of the bridle.

The amount of pressure applied by the mouthpiece is a ratio…the length of the shank to the length of the cheek piece of the bit. If the shank is 3 inches, for example, and the cheek piece is 1 inch, then the applied pressure is 3 to one. One ounce of pressure on the reins and 3 ounces of pressure is applied to the mouth.

Shank lengths of curb bits are typically 6” or 8”. There are several junk bits that have shorter shanks, these bits in my opinion are the most ineffective and offensive to the art of horsemanship.

There are two common shapes of shanks, the curved shank, such as that found on a grazer bit, and the straight shank. The straight shank bit will ask for more flexion at the horse’s poll in comparison to the curved shank.

The second piece of the curb bit is the mouthpiece. Mouthpieces of the curb bit are numerous, but they all have only one purpose---to be uncomfortable. The mouthpieces may be of straight bar stock, and may or may not be broken or jointed. They may include a port; ports are available in many different heights, and widths. The higher the port the more pressure applied to the roof of the horse’s mouth. The wider the port, the less the tongue carries the bit, making the bars carry more of the weight.

Quality curb bits are generally inlaid with copper. Very seldom will you find a curb bit with a solid copper mouthpiece; cooper is very soft and easily chewed.

Curb bits offer a beginner rider more stop than a snaffle. Knowing you can stop will prove to be a mental asset to these riders.

A word of advice on curb bits; choose a bit that suits the job. Do not select a high port bit for a rider’s first lesson. Choose one that will not punish the horse when the rider makes the inevitable mistake of pulling or hanging on the reins.

A good quality curb bit will cost $125 and up, but will last a life time. Bits are an investment every riding instructor needs to make. Having the right bit for the right horse to match the rider’s skills is extremely important and brands you as professional or unprofessional.

To learn more about bits take the online course Bits, Saddle Fitting and Hoof Balance at HorseCoursesOnline.com Click here to see a course description and outline.

Curb straps may be leather or chain. Leather is, of course, softer than chain. Western bridles use curb chains with a leather attachment while riding bridles use “J” hooks to attach the curb chain. When a curb strap is properly adjusted, two fingers will easily fit between the curb chain and the horse’s jaw. You change the length of the curb strap to meet the need…how quickly do you want curb strap pressure?

Accessory equipment

Martingales: for western horses there is one type of martingale, commonly referred to as a running martingale, or a training fork. It is comprised of a piece of leather connected to the center ring of the cinch, running between the horse’s front legs and toward his head. The leather piece is split and it has two rings attached. The reins are run through the rings of the martingale and then to the rider’s hands.

Although it is not uncommon to use a martingale with either a snaffle or a bit, I recommended that martingales be used only with a snaffle. Split reins with water ties are the best reins to use with a martingale. Reins with snaps may become entangled in the rings of the martingale and cause a horse to panic.

Flat saddle horses may use two different types of martingales. The running martingale is similar to that of the western horse, except it has a neck piece, this piece of leather which lies around the horse’s neck simply holds the martingale on the horse. When flat saddle horses use a running martingale they also use rein stops. Rein stops lie between the martingale and the bit, they stop the martingale rings before they reach the bit, reducing the potential for the rings becoming hooked on the buckle attachment of the rein.

The standing martingale has one piece of leather extending toward the horse’s head with a loop at the end. The noseband of the bridle runs thru this loop. It is similar to a western tie-down. Standing martingales are most often seen on Hunter and Jumper horses. The standing martingale allows the horse to lean against the noseband for balance.

It is essential you know if the horse accepts the use of any type of martingale.

Never add a martingale to a horse’s routine for the first time with an inexperienced rider. Horses can be very unpredictable; do not assume a horse with a quite disposition will accept any thing.

Always use an educated judgment based upon knowledge of the horse, equipment and past experience. Safety first is the responsibility of the riding instructor.

No matter the discipline you teach, it is your responsible to teach the proper rider attire.

Tennis shoes, hiking boots and any other type of foot wear other than a traditional riding boot is not acceptable.

These days people seem to be in to convenience; they like boots with rubber soles that have grips on the bottom, they like the shoe that has a heel like a boot, and they like open toe shoes. when stopping by the barn. You have the responsibility to set the rules and to maintain safety. Only riding and work boots are acceptable in the barn area.

Rubber grips within the stirrup are also not acceptable. The keep the rider from making a subtle adjustment as the sole of the boot will not slide. If a rider gets into trouble, rubber does not allow them to slip their foot out of the stirrup; it may actually cause further injury to rider.

The riding shoe is simply an embarrassment to the tradition of riding. As instructors we are responsible for preserving the tradition of riding.

Riding boots are designed to protect the rider’s foot and leg. Riding boots are designed to interact with the art of riding, allowing the rider to be able to make subtle adjustments. Riding boots allow for an easy dismount in an emergency.

Riding is not a sport of convenience; it is a sport of tradition and dedication.

Always honor, preserve and teach the tradition of riding.

Chaps can be a very useful addition to a student’s riding gear. Many flat saddle students utilize what are known as schooling chaps. Theses chaps are simple, usually smooth leather, keeping the rider’s leg from being pinched by the stirrup leathers. Chaps also save wear and tear on the rider’s expensive show boots.

Half chaps are small chaps that only cover the rider’s lower leg. They either zip on or Velcro on. These are less expensive than a pair of full chaps and serve the same purpose.

Western show horse riders typically only wear chaps in the show ring. These chaps are custom made to fit the rider, come in an array of colors and may be either rough-out or smooth leather. Show chaps are often accented with a silver concho in back and a three-piece silver buckle.

I strongly recommend all riders under the age of 12 be required to wear a helmet; as should a beginner rider of any age.

When children and beginning adults are riding for the first time they are not only going to make mistakes, they are going to be searching for their center of balance while on a moving animal. Anything could happen. As instructors we want to put safety first.

Requiring the use of a helmet is simple.

The selection of a helmet is simple. The equine industry has spent a lot of time and money developing a helmet that offers outstanding protection. When purchasing a helmet for your business or advising a client on the type of helmet to purchase always stress it must be a safety-approved helmet.

Most helmets are approved, tested helmets; but untested and poor quality helmets are still being offered.

Spurs are with out a doubt the most misunderstood riding aid in the horse world. There is a great misinterpretation that spurs are mean or spurs are cruel. Spurs can be mean and cruel, but only if the rider chooses to use them that way.

The purpose of spurs is to offer an extreme subtle communication opportunity from the rider. It allows the rider to subtly communicate almost unseen adjustments in the horse’s body. Used properly, spurs will aid the rider’s performance.

Flat saddle riders use a stainless steel spur with a blunt point at the end. The spur shank length varies from ¼ of an inch to 1 inch. The spur is worn high on the heel of the boot.

Western riders have about 200 choices when it comes to spurs and spur design. There are approximately 20 different types of rowels and 20 different lengths of spur shanks and angles.

Teach your students that the key to spur use is in the understanding the spur is an aid, not a punishment. Use caution and good judgment when adding the use of spurs to a learning rider’s lesson. They can improve communication, but they can also cause disaster.

Whips, crops or bats are designed to be used aids. Their purpose is to reinforce the leg and help send the horse forward.

Most commonly used with hunter horses and dressage horses, the use of this aid can improve the level of a horse’s performance.

I do not recommend the use of whips, crops or bats for beginning riders.

As with the selection of any aid, err to the cautious side.

Who Provides Equipment?

Should your riders provide their equipment, or should you?

The answer, of course depends on how you run your business and/or the desire of the facility out of which you teach.

If the rider is using a horse that you provide, I recommend you provide the equipment. We discussed the importance of saddle fit and care of the horse. The lesson horse plays a major role in how profitable you business is. You do not want to risk this valuable asset.

The horse should be ridden in a bridle that you know he is comfortable wearing and is suitable for the level of performance he’ll be asked to provide. A horse will not go in just any bit because we choose to use it.

We make our bit selection after considering the configuration of the horse’s mouth (See the online course, Bits, Saddle Fitting and Hoof Balance) and his level of training.

If the rider owns the horse, then the rider should supply the equipment use with your approval. Checking and deciding on the correctness of the equipment is part of your responsibility as the instructor. Often those just embarking on the journey of riding horses base their purchases on how much something costs. They are just learning, so they do not know how to evaluate quality much less function.

If a rider has a saddle that does not fit the horse, immediately explain why, and show them the problems.

If the bit is not a quality bit and is not working well with the horse, discuss it with the rider. Select another bit you feel will work better. Have the rider try it.

Direct the rider in the purchase of more productive equipment.

Your job as a riding instructor is to educate, not judge.

Always be productive when teaching…. explain why, and then explain and show an example of a higher quality piece of tack. The tack chosen will determine how well the rider can communicate with the horse. It will be a determinate to the level of riding achieved.

ASSIGNMENT:

1. Describe in detail how to determine saddle fit. Take a picture of a saddled horse, and discuss whether or not the saddle fits properly and why.

2. Explain the difference between a snaffle and a curb bit. In your opinion describe which type of bit you would choose for your students and why.

3. List and briefly describe the different flat and western saddles.

4. Who is ultimately responsible for the achievements of the student, the comfort and care of the horse, and the overall safety of the instruction program?

Please send your report to cathyhansonqh@gmail.com