Preparation for Competition

Lesson Three

Clipping, Clothes and Equipment

Three Months Prior to Show

If your horse has never been clipped, it is time to introduce him to the clippers.

Some horses will be very comfortable and some will not like them at all. Some will be quiet when clipping the legs and rebel when attempting the ears, or vice versa.

If possible own two pairs of clippers. Keep one pair in the horse trailer so it will be available at shows if needed. The other pair you keep in your tack room.

I transfer my clippers from the trailer to the tack room as they wear out; then purchase a new pair for the trailer.

Years ago we used large animal clippers to do all of the clipping. Today the large animal clippers are used mostly for body shaving or hunter clips where large portions of the horse’s body are shaved. There are smaller clippers on the market that can handle the big jobs and are easier themselves to handle. Whatever job you may have, make sure you have the correct type of clippers.

The clippers needed for horses will say “large animal” or something similar on the box.

We use a clipper with an adjustable blade, as it is much faster than having to change blades for the different areas to be clipped. The adjustable blade changes from size 10 to size 40. The larger the number the closer the blade will shave.

Use the size 10 blade on legs and under the throatlatch area. The size 40 for a closer shave will be used on the whiskers, ears, bridle path and in the chin groove and lower jaw area, as well as the eye lashes.

If you have a horse with long face hair, the size 10 will help to blend in the hairs for a neater appearance.

To begin, have clippers in good working order. They should have sharp blades and be well lubricated. Sharp blades will cut easily and not pull the hair, a painful experience for your horse. When the clippers are lubricated they cut better and last longer. Have a good extension cord that is long enough to allow you to easily work all around the horse.

A good routine to follow when introducing clippers is to go SLOWLY.

Do not tie your horse. Instead have a good halter and lead on, and while holding the horse with one hand, use the other hand to show the horse the “silent” clippers. Do not turn the clippers on. Let the horse smell the clippers, and rub them over the horse’s body in the same places that the trimming will take place. (Once the horse is very comfortable being clipped—this usually takes three or four experiences—you may tie the horse.)

If the horse shows no fear, the clippers can be turned on. Don’t attempt to use them; just let the horse listen to them. If your horse becomes frightened, stay with this procedure until the horse has overcome his fear and shows he cares little about the sound of the clippers. Go thru the same routine the following day and the following day until the horse accepts the clippers. This is why this process needs to begin four months away from the show. Attempting to clip an unwilling horse the day before the show will only result in a poor clipping job, frustrated handler and a bad experience for the horse. Once a horse is afraid of clippers, or has had a bad experience it will take a long time to regain the horse’s trust and eventual willingness to be clipped.

Once the horse accepts the running clippers, begin clipping the muzzle. Keep the blade flat against the horse’s nose and use a smooth motion to clip the whiskers.

In the beginning don’t worry about getting each little whisker. For now, simply make it a pleasant experience by getting done quickly a reward for the horse’s cooperation.

Clip the bridle path at this time as well. Be sure to hold the mane back so you only clip as much bridle path as you want. Hold the forelock as well. It is easy to inadvertently clip off the forelock. Forelocks take a very long time to grow back.

Check the style of mane and forelock for your horse’s breed and or event. Use the appropriate length of bridle path. Different breeds and events prefer different lengths.

If your horse has done well so far, it is a good time to stop and pat him for his good behavior. It is always tempting to keep going when the horse is being good. If this is the first time to clip your horse, end on a good note and quit while you are ahead.

Continue the clipping lessons each day. If your horse does not accept the clippers, simply keep repeating the parts he does accept. Then attempt, without forcing the issue, to work the clippers in areas to which he objects. Work with the horse on this just 5 to 10 minutes each day. Sometimes it takes a while to gain trust. Being impatient will not help to gain your horse’s trust.

There is of course the occasional horse that just refuses to be clipped no matter how much patience and time he has been given. In this case a safe effective approach must be taken. Have a helper, as it is difficult to hold an unruly horse and clip at the same time.

Use a chain under the horse’s chin. Attach the chain by running the snap of the chain through the side ring on the halter, under the chin and up the right side of the horse’s head. Attach the snap to the ring above the horse’s cheek. Tell the horse “whoa” and use the chain with a small jerk to get your point across.

When using the chain use it in a side to side motion, not a straight down jerk, as this will only make the horse rear and possibly fall over. The horse needs to be respectful of your requests. If he still refuses, apply a lip chain. Loosen the chain under the chin, lift the upper lip and lay the chain across the gum above the teeth. Slowly pull the slack out of the chain, so that a firm and steady hold of the horse’s head is felt. Now try to clip areas the horse has previously been difficult about.

If you have a horse you feel is dangerous to you or himself and a lip chain is not working, try a tranquilizer. A mild tranquilizer (Acepromazine) can be purchased from your veterinarian. Use the prescribed amount the veterinarian recommends under the horse’s tongue. A syringe is used without a needle for this process. This will relax the horse enough to get thru the clipping safely. These last methods are used only after the horse has had ample opportunity to become accustomed to clipping.

LEGS

It is a good idea to have the horse well accustomed to the noise and movement of the clippers before clipping the legs. It is not safe to be close to the ground with a horse trying to get away from something he does not like. If possible have someone hold the horse while clipping the legs.

Always have a hand on the horse’s leg when clipping. This way if the horse kicks or moves quickly you will be protected.

Squat; don’t get down on your knees to clip the legs. When on your knees, you will not be able to move out of the way quickly if needed.

Never, never, place your head under the horse, or in front of, or behind the legs, to see what you are doing! In an instant the horse may kick at a fly or just move away from you and kick you in the head.

As with the first introduction to the clippers, don’t worry about a perfect clipping job on the legs. It will be much easier to perfect the clipping when the horse is relaxed and standing quietly, so use this time to gain the horse’s trust.

Begin with the legs no more than two days in advance of the show. Use the size 10 blade. Remember, always squat next to your horse and always keep one hand on their leg.

Begin on the back of the lower leg, clipping against the hair. Begin at the bulbs of the heel and work your way up toward the ergot. Only clip against the hair on the back of the pastern. (If the hair is a white stocking or sock, you will clip against all the white hair.) The hairs around the ergot will be shaved against and in a circle around the ergot. Take your time and use small strokes with the clippers, pressing evenly, but not too hard against the horse.

The finished look should be neat and blended.

Use the clippers around the front of the horses hoof against the hairs next to the coronet band. Move the clippers against these hairs just enough to clip the hairs growing onto the hoof.

Next use the clippers moving with the hair from the fetlock joint down to the coronet band to blend and shorten. Turn the clippers over, so that the blade is pointing toward the hoof. Use a softer stroke and move the clippers down with the hair to the coronet band. Blend the hairs on the entire pastern area. On the back of the leg, blend from the back of the knee, catching some of the longer hairs on the tendons. Remember to blend in the direction the hair is growing.

When clipping socks, stockings or other white areas, clip against all the white hair for a closer shave. The white will look cleaner and if you use products to whiten the hair, the product will apply much easier and more evenly to shorter hair. When clipping against the white hair do not press to hard. Use consistent pressure with the clippers so the cut is even.

THE HEAD

When clipping the head begin with the whiskers. Use the 40 size blade for a close shave. Clip against the whisker hairs to get even closer.

To clip the eyelashes below the eye, open the eyelid with one hand and slowly move the clipper up toward the bottom eyelid. Do not jab at the eye lashes as it is possible to accidentally poke the horse in the eye. The only lashes to clip are the long lashes on the bottom of the eye and a few long hairs on the top of the horse’s eye.

Do not clip the horse’s eyelashes on the upper eyelid; he needs those to protect his eyes.

To clip the bridle path hold the mane back with one hand and clip toward the horse’s ears. Remember to hold the forelock with one hand as well. Keep the clippers close to his crest and run the clippers over the same area several times to achieve a close clip.

To clip under the jaw of the horse use a 10 or 15 size blade. Clip against the hair from the chin groove up to the jaw. Then clip with the hair from the under the jaw. Use the clippers carefully to blend hairs on the outside of the jaw to the underside of the jaw. When clipping this part always clip with the hair.

DIFFERENT EVENTS AND BREEDS

Different events and breeds have different standards of clipping which are either required or fashionable. Be sure to know what is appropriate for horse’s breed and event. This information is seldom in a book, so ask a professional in the field of your interest.

THE BODY

Body shaving will require a sturdy, stronger type of clipper.

When body clipping, try to complete the job in one day; two at the most. Remember the hair keeps growing, so if you shave half the horse and then complete the other half a week later the hair will not match.

When body shaving, use a blade which will not cut too close. Shave against the hairs.

Use clippers with good blades and which are well lubricated. This will help prevent too many lines. Use fairly short strokes and even pressure against the horse.

There are several different types of clips which you may come across in different events or breeds. The clipping described previously is intended for the western show horse.

Hunters and dressage horses have a variety of clips used.

Neck and belly clip: This is a good clip for horses which will “live out” during the winter months, yet may be used occasionally for trail and recreational riding. It is also a good clip for the stabled horse which is used for light riding.

*Colored area is clipped

A. Bib clip: Generally for stabled horses getting light work. The clip makes it easy to sponge off sweat along the next and between the front legs.

A. and B. Apron clip: This clip begins with the bib clip, and then has additional coat taken off to the girth line, between the front legs and the top of the forelegs. This is a good clip for horses which wear martingales and for western horses with wide cinches and breast collars. *Colored areas are clipped

A. Low trace clip: This clip originates with the harness horse, getting its name because the clip parallels the path of the “traces.” It is a good clip for field kept and stabled horses which sweat a lot while being exercised. Once bathed, excess water is easily removed and the horse will dry much more quickly.

The coat is removed the underside of the neck and belly, between the forelegs and the upper part of the hind legs. A good guide is to saddle the horse, then begin the clip about 12 inches below the saddle skirt.

B. and C. Medium and high trace clips: As the name suggests, these clips are the same as the trace clip, only they move farther up the side of the horse and in most cases have the lower portion of the head clipped. These clips are not suggested for horses which will be left out during the winter. When clipping the lower half of the head, keep in mind this is an area of very thin skin which allows considerable loss of body heat. *Colored areas are clipped

Blanket clip: This clip is for stabled horses which are engaged in relatively hard work on a consistent basis. All the hair is removed except for the “blanket over the hindquarters and saddle area. The horse’s head is normally “clipped out,” but you can choose to clip only half the head as shown. *Colored area is clipped

Hunter clip: This is a clip only for horses which are stabled, working hard on a daily basis, and being shown on a regular basis. With this clip all the hair comes off except for the saddle area, the legs and a small “V” shape left above the tail.

Horses with a hunter clip and horses with full body clips must be given special attention to their needs for warmth. They should be stabled, well fed and turned out without blankets sparingly during cold weather. *Black area is left un-clipped

Many of these clips are popular in areas where the weather is cold and horses get turned out in pastures for exercise or are simply working in cold and wet conditions.

CLOTHES AND EQUIPMENT

It is during this time period you will want to do a wardrobe and equipment check.

If clothes are needed, some things may need to be ordered and time is needed for fittings. The same goes for equipment. Make a list of the things needed and make sure you have everything on it. Now is the time to do your ordering so you’ll be prepared when it is time to go to the show.

A very important part in being prepared to show is being comfortable in your clothes. (Both you and your horse will want to “wear” your show clothes several times during practice sessions. Getting use to clothes and feeling comfortable is important for both horse and rider.)

If you are showing in a showmanship class, practice with your hat on. Having a hat on makes a difference as to where you stand in relationship to your horse or while moving around the horse. Getting accustomed to looking up with your hat on is a good thing to practice. Many people do not put their hat on until just prior to that first class, and then they are not able to focus on riding, because the hat is distracting to them.

The same rules apply for the horse. Now is the time to start riding in the equipment the horse will be shown in. The horse needs to be familiar with his equipment too.

The more things you can make exactly the same for the horse when practicing, as when he will be showing, the better.

This is the time to start to put the show routine together.

Begin practicing—four months in advance--what the horse will do in the show pen.

For example, if riding western, ride the horse using a curb bit, ride with one hand on the reins. Or ride in a smooth snaffle that is the legal size to show in.

Ride a pattern required in the show arena. This is a great time to evaluate your strong areas as well as the weak areas. By determining the weak areas, a plan can be developed for the next few months to strengthen those areas.

It is okay to go back to training devices if needed to continue to train the horse. Training devices are helpful if they help to create good habits and help the horse develop a better foundation. For example, a nose band is a great training tool. It is not legal in western classes, but very useful in training because it prevents the horse from evading the bit by opening his mouth. This aids the trainer in getting the full effect of the bit in the horse’s mouth. The horse does not learn to open his mouth and develop a bad habit. All the horse knows is he never opens his mouth. So when the noseband comes off the habit is already instilled.

Some training devices can be helpful if used in a limited fashion. Many trainers like to use many different devices.

I prefer to use as few as possible. Use a training device to aid in the training – but don’t waste time making sure the horse can perform in a pair of draw reins. Draw reins used occasionally can be helpful, but if the horse is constantly trained with draw reins, he’ll be confused when they are removed and new style of riding is instituted.

The same goes for riding a horse in a curb with two hands. This technique can be useful, but the horse must learn to be completely comfortable and responsive to the communication when the reins are in one hand.

It is an absolute necessity to teach the horse the exact communication he will need to know when he is showing.

Using two hands and a direct rein to maneuver the horse, or very low hands to lower the head, teaches the horse to understand that communication. And he will learn it well. So don’t expect the horse to understand a different set of cues used only on show days—that is totally unfair to the horse and completely unrealistic.

The majority of practice and training should be in the manner the horse will be shown. Ride at home as you would ride at a show, and ride at the show as you would ride at home. That is the only way the horse can truly learn his job.

Whatever is practiced most is what the horse will remember best.

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