Preparation for Competition

Lesson Four

The Horse Trailer

TWO MONTHS PRIOR TO THE SHOW

If you are planning a one day show close to home or planning to travel a long distance, your horse trailer needs to be safe and in good repair before departing for the show.

Floors need to be checked yearly. If the floors are wood, over a period of time wet boards will rot and could spell disaster for your horse. Aluminum floors also can deteriorate. The ammonia in urine can cause a chemical reaction to the aluminum and cause the floor to turn to powder.

To protect your floors, always clean shavings out of your trailer after a show. Leaving wet shavings sitting on the floor for long periods of time will damage the floor. Hosing the trailer out is a good idea as well. While you are washing the inside, go over side walls and panels to make sure they are structurally safe and keep your horse well protected.

As steel trailers begin to rust, sharp edges pop up that can cut your horse. Check the dividers and the latches to make sure they are working. Sometimes a little W-D40 is in order if things are a little stiff.

Make sure the snaps are in good shape for tying the horse. Inspect the mats on the floor, check for rough edges that could possibly catch on the horse’s shoe. Trim any excess, hanging rubber away, making the floor smooth.

Clean out the feeders and remove any old, moldy hay or other feed that was left. Moldy hay and grains turn toxic and can poison your horse. Be sure all feed bins and bags are completely clean and fresh.

Check the outside of the trailer. Begin with the lights. Lights are commonly and constantly in need of repair. Even if you are not using the trailer often, small creatures can eat away the wires and cause the lights to fail. When having the trailer serviced, always have the lights checked--inside and outside.

Other service areas include the axles, tires, brakes and wheel bearings.

A spare tire is a must have item. Carry blocks of wood in the trailer to drive the trailer up onto if needing to repair a flat. (You can buy special “drive on jacks” for lifting trailer wheels off the ground to change a tire.) Drive on jacks are much easier than using a conventional jack with a full load of horses.

The hitch and the ball, of course, need to be checked. Periodically grease the ball. This will decrease the friction of metal on metal. It also helps to quiet squeaking. While you’re in the area, check the safety chains as well.

Stocking the Trailer

There are some things that can be stored permanently inside the tack room. A spare halter and lead are a must.

Have a water bucket that always stays in the trailer.

Extra pairs of reins are good to keep in the trailer. Reins frequently get stepped on and broken, ruining the opportunity to show.

Rain gear can easily be stored in a corner. Include a couple of hat covers. (I am always lending one to someone who doesn’t have one). Have a rain jacket or coat and an umbrella. You will be glad to have it when caught in an unexpected rain shower.

Keep a notebook with a copy of all of your horse’s registration papers and association membership cards. Some breed shows will not allow you to show if you are unable to provide them with a current ownership copy of a horse’s registration papers. If you own more than one trailer, this may be an item that you will store in the truck.

You will want to have a well-stocked toolbox. Inside the tool box, a few must items are: screwdriver, pliers, hammer, nails, wrench, electrical tape, knife capable of cutting a lead rope, wiring supplies, duct tape, flashlight, staple gun and staples, various snaps, eye bolts, Chicago screws, zip ties, locks and key’s, several pieces of chain in different lengths (to lock tack rooms), leather ties to repair saddles, reins etc.

This toolbox will be used at horse shows or on the road for repairs.

Carry flares and/or reflectors in case you need to pull over on the side of the road. The cones that you carry to practice patterns can work for this as well.

Tools for changing tires need to be kept in the trailer. Jumper cables are great to have. (If the inside trailer lights or tack room lights get left on, by the end of the day your truck could have a dead battery.)

Horse trailering

Being prepared to trailer your horse includes the horse being prepared as well.

There is nothing worse than getting up very early, working in the dark, and then discovering your horse refuses to load in the trailer. This is not a good way to start the day.

Know well in advance if your horse is a happy hauler. If he or she is not, start teaching trailer loading two months ahead of your show schedule.

Some people are fortunate to own a horse that is used to being hauled. Sometimes this will work against you, however, if the experience has been negative.

The following procedure will apply to teaching a horse to load in the trailer or re-schooling a horse to load in the trailer. Re-schooling can be more difficult, as the horse is already afraid or has learned how to avoid loading, so expect to spend more time.

Luckily for us, horses don’t try to figure out what we are going to do with them. If they ever realized we were putting them in a little box so we could speed down the highway at 60 miles an hour, they would never load. It is a demonstration of a horse’s courage that he will follow you when he has no idea what the final outcome may be. All the horse knows is that he follows you when asked, he is comfortable, and has something to eat. If that is the extent of his trailer experience, then everything is okay with him. Try your best to be sure that is his total experience.

Horses usually don’t like to get into cramped areas, so make sure your trailer will accommodate the size of your horse.

The trailer will either have a ramp, or it will be a step up. Horses learn either way and are happy with both.

If a ramp is used, it should have a rubber mat or ridges on it, so the horse will not slip when backing out. (Backing out of a trailer is often the major trailering problem!) Starting early, you should be able to solve this problem, as you have to get the horse out as often as you get him in.

If the trailer has drop down windows or doors, be sure to have screens installed. When traveling in hot weather, it’s nice to drop the windows, so more air moves through the trailer. Screens must be in place so the horse cannot stick his head out the window. He could be spooked and jerk his head back in, injuring himself. Or a rock or piece of debris from another vehicle can hit the horse in the head or the eye.

The roof of the trailer needs to be high enough so the horse does not have to duck when loading or unloading. The horse should be able to elevate his head comfortably, when in the trailer.

To begin teaching the loading process, park your trailer in an open area. If the trailer is not attached to your truck, be sure the wheels are blocked so there is no rolling movement while the horse is learning.

Open all the doors and windows. Put some hay in the feeder and you are ready to start.

Halter the horse and approach the trailer. Do not become attached to the idea your horse will go in today. This is a progressive learning experience. It is important to wait until you know the horse is ready and relaxed. It will take as along as it takes.

Walk into the back of the trailer giving the horse plenty of room to step in if he wants to. The first day is just to approach the trailer and stand there, sniff it, taste it and be relaxed about being around it.

If the horse has had a bad experience, and won’t approach the trailer, you will need to change your tactic a bit.

A stud chain should be used under the chin, so that you are able to control the horse. It is important you establish the rule: “I am in control; we are walking up to the trailer.” Turning and leaving is not acceptable. Again, do not be attached to the idea you will solve all problems today. The only thing you need to accomplish is having the horse walk with you to the trailer and stand there. If the horse is very afraid, but you are patient, the horse may give the trailer a sniff. That’s plenty for today.

The horse will need to learn that you asked him to walk to the trailer and he did. You are in control. Praise the horse and be done with this session, however, plan on repeating this lesson each day for awhile. The first accomplishment is to walk to the trailer and stand quietly. When this happens and the horse is becoming more curious instead of afraid, you are making progress.

Step into the trailer and ask the horse to take a look inside. Don’t keep asking the horse to step inside. Horses which do not fear the trailer at this stage often simply step inside and are good to go.

When the horse steps inside, be sure to give the horse plenty of room, by stepping partially out the escape door.

Be ready, however, to step back inside the trailer and then out with the horse if he starts to back out. You don’t want to let loose of a horse and have him get away. They learn to flee more rapidly than they learn to get in a trailer.

Once you get the horse into the trailer, don’t tie him. Let him have some hay, praise him, and then back him out.

Loading and unloading a few times is fine; then call it a day.

When progressing this quickly, a few more days of loading and unloading, and the horse will have mastered this simple maneuver. WARNING: Never tie the horse without first hooking the butt chain or bar and closing the door.

Always untie the horse first, and then open the trailer door. Having a horse attempt to back out while tied is extremely dangerous. The horse usually panics and then fights to get out, resulting in injury, possibly serious injury. Adding to the insult is the fact the horse will often refuse to get back in a trailer.

With the “difficult loader”, it is important to establish in the first session that you are in charge.

The secret is to never ask the horse to do something you cannot get him to do.

When your ego gets involved and you decide to force the horse – you’ll soon discover he is bigger, stronger and can be very stubborn. You will also find, that at times such as these, it is too easy to lose one’s temper. You never want to lose you temper. You want to be aggressive without being angry.

The horse must learn you are in charge and that when you ask, he must respond appropriately. Make sure the horse learns this by asking for things which are easy for him to accomplish.

For example: you may want to pick up a front foot and set it on the ramp or step. Trust is being developed here, and it is worth a little extra time. Do not attempt force. This is a learning process for the horse.

If the horse does not appear to be afraid, but is simply stuck without knowing what to do, a little extra push is needed. Two people can lock hands behind the horse and sort of pull him toward the front of the trailer.

Once the horse is in, close the door, let the horse stay in for a while, eat and relax. When you’re ready, teach him to back out.

The trailer loading routine should be repeated the next day.

The only time to discipline the horse is when he is disrespectful of you and not attempting to respond to your request.

This is different than refusing to go into the trailer. I see frustrated people jerking, yelling and whipping the horse because the horse won’t load. The problem is not that the horse won’t load; the problem is the horse has not been taught to move forward when the handler applies pressure to the lead rope.

It is your responsibility to teach the horse the basic commands. Stay focused on what you are asking the horse to do, and expect him to do only that. Don’t ask the horse to do something you are not able to accomplish. If you know in advance you are asking something the horse is not willing to do, then the horse will not accept your request. So avoid that situation.

Teaching a horse to load in a trailer, is really only teaching a horse to trust you, and then move forward with you. Do not violate his trust by attempting force, and do not ask him to do anything more than move forward with you.

You will discover it really is worth the effort to properly “teach” so you have a happy horse in the trailer.

If the horse arrives at the show upset, sweaty and mad – it makes the whole show experience bad. And, in the long run, you will spend more time re-schooling than it would take to properly school in the first place. Even worse, you’ll be wasting time that could be spent moving forward with your horse’s education for competition.

Leg protection while traveling

Many people like to protect the horse’s legs while traveling. Some people don’t. It is really personal preference.

Some horses will scramble while traveling, and protecting their legs is one way to ensure they arrive safely.

Different types of wraps can be used. The standing bandage is one common type of traveling wrap. The standing bandage provides support, warmth and protects the leg. This type of wrap is good when hauling a long distance, because it gives the leg some support and helps fight off muscle fatigue.

This wrap must be applied correctly to the leg. If it is not wrapped evenly in pressure, is too tight or has wrinkles in the quilt next to the horse’s leg, it can cause injury to the horse.

Shipping wraps are usually a quilted type of bandage with Velcro straps. They protect the leg, but don’t provide support for the leg. They offer some warmth and are easy to apply. This type needs to fit the horse as well, but takes little talent to apply. If it is two big, it is difficult to fit the wrap snug enough around the leg. The wrap will slide down around the foot and be annoying to the horse.

Bell boots are often used to protect the coronet band and help prevent the horse from stepping on a shoe and pulling it off.

Some horses do not like wearing bandages and they will paw and fuss to get them off. In this case it is better not to insist they wear bandages. The horse will often cause himself more harm trying to get rid of the bandages than would occur without the bandages.

It is important any type of shipping protection be clean. If wraps or boots are dirty, they will cause sores.

If you have a horse which tosses his head, a head bumper may be a good investment. This is a piece of leather that is padded and fits over the top of the horse’s head. There are two holes for the ears. The crown piece of the halter slides through a sleeve to secure the bumper and prevent it from sliding.

Horses can get hurt in the trailer.

Accidents happen.

Being prepared, maintaining the trailer properly and protecting your horse with shipping wraps etc. will turn the odds of arriving at the show safe, sound and happy in your favor.

Health papers

When traveling with your horse across state lines, you are required to carry a current Coggins report (a negative test for Equine Infectious Anemia), and a certificate of veterinary inspection (CVI).

A Coggins report requires a blood test taken by a veterinarian. A Coggins report is good for 6 months to a year, depending on the state, so you will have time to have the test taken in advance of your show. It usually takes about a week to receive the results, although you can pay extra and have it rushed. The Coggins test must be negative, and the original test report from your vet must be carried with you. The Coggins report will have your horse’s registered name and description, so you must have the correct papers to go with each horse.

The CVI health papers simply state your horse is in good health. Health papers are good for 30 days.

Specific laboratory tests for other diseases in addition to EIA (e.g., equine viral arteritis, equine piroplasmosis, etc.) may be required to verify that the horses being transported are free of disease. These tests may only be required of horses of a certain breed, age, sex, use, or geographic location. Be sure to check with the appropriate regulatory agency to determine if documents other than the CVI and EIA forms are required for the horse(s) you intend to transport.

Load ‘em up, you are ready to roll!

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