HORSE
PHOTOGRAPHY
Lynette Smith
LESSON TWO
The Camera
• Choosing the Correct camera
• Lenses, Light and Arenas
• Tips
• Accessories
CHOSING THE CORRECT CAMERA
For photographing horses as a profession,
you should have an SLR camera with interchanging lenses. For this
course, you will want to use a digital SLR Camera. A digital camera
without the ability to photograph in manual mode, aperture priority
or shutter priority will make it difficult for you to participate in
the assignments of this course.
I prefer digital
photography to film when photographing horses or horse events. Horses are unpredictable and sometimes you have to take numerous shots to get the right image. With a film camera you often end up paying
for film development and then the client doesn’t purchase prints. You’re stuck with additional expense, and no income.
A digital camera saves the images to a card in
your camera. You download the images to your computer, and view
immediately. This is a great feature
because you see the images quickly, you are able to double check lighting, see if the background is working for
you, and if you like the overall composition of the image. It also provides proofs quickly for clients
to review immediately. It’s much easier
to sell photos to clients on site, than it is “after” the event when the
excitement is over.
With all the talk
about “going Green” you can also sell digital technology as “Green” technology
because you’re not wasting paper; printing only what the client chooses.
Choosing the right
camera can be frustrating, intimidating and
confusing. There are numerous factors to
consider.
First
it’s important to decide how much money you can spend. Set a budget or budget range,
and avoid looking at cameras that are out of your budget parameters.
Next consider what
you will be photographing. Look for cameras that have the best features to meet
your needs. We’re talking equine
photography so we’re looking for a camera that can shoot horse events at high
speeds both indoors and outdoors with the possibility of low light. Your camera must be satisfactory for at least
those circumstances.
Make sure you deal
with a reputable store and a salesperson who knows your needs and the camera’s
features.
The first digital
camera I purchased was completely the wrong camera for my photography needs
(photographing horse shows). I ended up
purchasing a compact digital camera priced at nearly $1,000. I was told it would “handle all my
photography needs”. It was also sold as
“a great choice for serious photographers.”
I was a serious photographer, so I purchased
the camera and then headed up the barn to start photographing digitally.
The photos taken indoors were very dark, the
images were blurred and there was almost a “dust like” cloudy haze in every
image. My best guess at the time was
that I didn’t know how to use the digital camera correctly (I was wrong).
When I shot photos outside trying to capture
“serious action” the camera had a delay best explained as “pause, focus, click,
image”. Each time I would take a
photograph the delay would “miss” the moment or action shot. It was nearly impossible to know when to
click to capture the right “gait” of the horses. Even when I got it right, the images still weren’t
great. This delay known as “shutter lag”
is the holdup between triggering the shutter and when the photograph is actually recorded.
Shutter lag can be an issue in photography when you’re working with
fast-moving objects such as horses in motion.
Shutter lag is more typical of the lower end cameras and will result in
a delay possibly missing the image you were after.
Trying to count the delay, “pause, focus,
click, image” ends in frustration.
Why didn’t the camera work even
though it was for a “serious professionals” and
relatively expensive? For starters I
purchased a “compact camera” vs. a digital SLR.
It boils down to electronics vs.
mechanics. Inside your camera there is a
small device referred to as a shutter that sits in front of the digital SLR
sensor, basically blocking it from light.
When you take a photo, the shutter opens and closes. With a compact camera there is no shutter
mechanism. In a compact camera, the
sensor is electronically activated each time you take a photo. The benefit of the mechanical solution is
that it’s immediate…when you press the shutter button (the button that takes the
photo) the shutter snaps open. There
isn’t that delay (pause, focus, click, image) like there is with a “compact
camera”. You will miss more photo
moments with a compact camera than you will with a digital SLR.
Just
because a camera is expensive doesn’t mean its “professional” or the camera you
need for the type of events you want to photograph.
The other issue with the compact camera I
started with was that the lens was “fixed”.
With a “fixed” lens you don’t have the option of changing to a different
lens. The limited options keep you from
growing as a photographer. Matter of fact, I outgrew the compact camera within three
months and sold it to a friend for family photos. The camera works just great for my friend.
Another
problem with the compact camera is it is nearly impossible to capture a high quality image in low light. The following photo examples will give you an
idea of how different cameras capture images. (Click on camera
names to view pictures. The files are
large, so give your computer time to download.
Please contact Lynette
if you have problems.)
Being able
to get photos in lower light settings is a great
asset. Digital SLR cameras can take
photos in low light without the flash. At a horse show you’ll often find yourself photographing in low light settings, such as indoor
arenas. Show management may request you
to not use a flash.
In low
light situations you’re going to get dark, fuzzy images with “dust” or clouds
in the image using a compact camera.
With a digital SLR you can take clear, sharp photos because of the ISO
feature (speed of your film) makes the digital sensor more sensitive to light.
Compact
digital cameras will let you change the ISO, but without other negative
results. When you increase the ISO and
increase the camera’s sensitivity to light you end up adding grain or noise to
the image. With a digital SLR camera
when photographing at a high ISO setting there will be little noise. A digital SLR will always produce better
results when photographing in an indoor arena with low light.
A major consideration in getting great
pictures is the lens you use.
I like to
have a variety of lenses available.
A
wide-angle lens works great for a landscape portrait of a horse in a field of
flowers. If you want to photograph the
details of a horse’s mane, tail, hoof or fetlock, then
choose a macro lens.
When
taking photographs for headshots of a horse or
equestrian events, my lens of choice is a telephoto lens so I can snap shots
from a distance and still get the detail.
With a digital SLR camera you have the option of changing lenses and adding
different ones. A compact digital camera
does not allow lens changes.
You may
think that one of those fancy compact cameras with a built-in mega-zoom will do
everything you want it to with the one lens and
therefore make things easier.
But the
problem with the compact camera is speed.
Zoom lenses in compact cameras take time to zoom in and out because the
zoom is driven by a motor. You don’t
have the control to zoom the camera.
With a digital SLR you manually control the zoom of the camera and will
be less likely to miss those special moments that last a second.
Bottom
line, you have control with a digital SLR vs. a compact camera. You also have the option of making
decisions. You don’t have to rely on the
camera to make all the choices for you.
If you think you’re not ready for a fully
manual camera, not to worry! Every
digital SLR camera allows you to use an automatic setting while providing
guides to increase the level of control of your images. You will find having choices with your camera
when photographing horses and/or horse events will provide great creative
flexibility and better quality images.
Many
websites offer digital camera searches by features, or
offer side-by-side comparisons. Know all the specs and details before you hit
the purchase button.
In a
store, don’t let a salesperson talk you into something that you’re really not that well-informed about.
Visit a
camera shop if you have one in your area.
You can look at the cameras, try them in your hand and really get a good
feel for what you need.
Many
stores have working models, so you can play with the features and see the
quality of the LCD screen. Pay attention to how it feels in your hands. Most
likely, there won't be a memory card inside to allow you to actually
take a picture. Doesn’t matter,
you’ll be able to get the feel and know if it is comfortable to
you.
Cameras
and brands are a personal choice. My
camera preference for someone starting out would be a Canon Rebel XTi or a Canon 40D (which is a step up) and for those
really interested in taking a big step to a full
professional camera, a Canon ID Mark III.
The reason I like the ID Mark III is the camera body is “weather sealed”
so it is less likely to be effected by the elements such as dirt, dust, rain or snow. Fine dust in a non-weather sealed camera can
result in a cleaning fee of the camera body alone of $250.
*** With any
digital SLR camera, never switch your camera lenses during a horse event
outside in the dust. Fine dust can and
will get into your camera and cause serious issues resulting in expensive
repairs.
A great website is:
www.fredmiranda.com. If you’re looking
for a higher end camera, but not wanting to pay “new” camera prices, you can
find great deals on online. You could save even hundreds by shopping around for the best price.
Caution: It’s important to make sure the camera
you’re looking at is not an import. Be certain the camera is made in the
USA. “Imported” cameras are usually
defective in some way and often don’t work at all.
When
purchasing new, you may decide to purchase an optional warranty on the camera.
Look at the vendor's site because the factory warranty may be sufficient.
Don't
forget to save your receipt, the camera's box and all
related warranty papers. Register your purchase with the manufacturer. This
will all make it easier to make a warranty claim, as many camera-makers require
documentation to honor a warranty.
LENSES, LIGHT AND ARENAS
With a digital SLR,
an important component will be the lens you choose. You can purchase a digital SLR with a lens
(some kit purchases) or the “body” only.
The type of horse events you’ll photograph will help determine the lens
you want.
When you look at
detached camera lenses there are several options.
Once I purchased my
digital SLR several years ago and returned to the arena to photograph a horse
event the images were better but still not great. The lens that came with the camera didn’t
allow enough light into the camera to get the shot, so the images were still a
bit dark and not sharp.
To break things
down simply, I’m going to refer to the difference between “fast and slow”
digital SLR camera lenses.
When you purchase a
digital SLR camera lens you will notice there is an “f” number associated with
the lens. For example, we will work with
a typical lens that comes with a Canon 40D in a kit, the Canon EF 17-85mm
f/4-5.6. The “f” number (f/4-5.6)
determines whether the lens is considered slow or fast. The “f” number is also known as its aperture
value (we will discuss this more in the next lesson). A slow lens has a maximum aperture value (“f”
number) of 3.5 – 5.6 .
The higher the “f” number is the slower the lens will be.
Faster lenses let
more light in at faster shutter speeds allowing you to photograph in low light
conditions (like an indoor arena) without a tripod or flash. One of the lenses I use when photographing
indoors in an arena is a Canon EFS 70-200 f/2.8. The “f” 2.8 allows more
light in at faster shutter speeds than an f/5.6. You can also take photos outdoors long into
the evening without having to raise the ISO.
The lower your ISO setting, the better quality
photo image you will have.
A fast lens can also shoot subjects at a
closer range, like an equine headshot, while blurring the background.
With a slower lens your background needs to be
further away for it to be blurred.
There are some
disadvantages to a fast lens. A faster
lens is typically more expensive, larger and heavier
than a slower lens. Should you purchase
an f/2.8 lens, the cost is going to be greater than if you purchased a 4.0 or
5.6 lens.
If you’re going to be photographing a lot of
horse events outdoors and indoors a lens rated f/2.8 will allow greater
flexibility. An f/2.8 lens may be more
expensive, but the ability to take better photographs in all conditions
including low light may be more important than the cost.
You do have the
option to purchase a slow lens and use a tripod or flash in low light
conditions.
A slow lens has a maximum aperture value (f number) of 3.5
to 5.6 or higher. The higher the f number the slower the lens. Here is another
example using two of my lenses. One is a Canon EF-S 17-85mm f/4-5.6 lens and
the other is a Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro lens. The first lens that has a
maximum aperture value of f/5.6 is considered slower than the second one that
has a maximum f/2.8.
With light being an
issue when photographing indoors, I would recommend a 70-200 f/2.8 as an
excellent choice which would allow for a wider range of options.
If you see “IS” at
the end of the lens number, “IS” stands for “Image Stabilized”. Image
Stabilized is most beneficial with non-moving items, but it will also help you
get good photos if you shoot handheld with good panning techniques. (We will
cover “panning” in an upcoming lesson).
TIPS
Be sure to
select a model with a good LCD screen, even if you don't think you need one. At
the store, examine the screen in the light and be sure you can see the images
well. Almost every camera has an LCD screen, so you shouldn't pay more to get
it. But it's a good idea to be sure it's large, easy to see and shows good
detail.
Determine what
type of batteries the camera uses. If you are a frequent shooter and it takes
AAA batteries, you will blow through them. A rechargeable battery may be a
better choice. I recommend having at
least two. One in the camera and one charged and ready to go.
Ask
friends and family what digital cameras they use, and what they like or don't
like about theirs. This is one of the best ways to get real feedback on a
model.
ACCESSORIES
One of the most important accessories you will purchase is a
camera filter, which is a transparent or translucent glass element that
attaches to the front of a camera lens.
Camera filters can protect the camera lens, change the characteristics
of light entering into the camera or provide special
effects or colors to an image. One of
the most important things a filter does is protect the lens from the elements such as fine particles of dust or salt
air. With all the computer technology
there are only three filters I have in my bag, two, which
I rarely use, and one that is always on my lens.
Let’s discuss a UV
filter and a polarizing filter.
For starters,
determine the size filter you need; the size varies from camera to camera. The size of the filter is determined by the
diameter of your lens. The diameter size
is typically printed on the rim of your lens where the glass meets the threaded
edge.
UV and Skylight filters, for the most
part, are used to protect a camera lens from becoming scratched, smudged with
fingerprints or damaged by moisture and dust.
They can also prevent breakage if your camera is accidentally bumped or
dropped.
The best quality UV and skylight filters
are multi-coated. I recommend adding a
UV filter to all your camera lenses. I
don’t switch my filters; each lens has its own UV filter. The investment in a filter is minor when you
compare it to the cost of replacing a lens.
UV filters are primarily used to
protect the glass of a camera lens since they are clear and do not noticeably
affect the image. For digital cameras, it is often debated whether the
advantage of a UV filter (protection) outweighs the potential reduction in
image quality. I would rather protect my
investment than chance it.
Photographing horses is generally an
outdoor activity. The chances for dust and dirt scratching a lens are very
good. For me, a UV filter is peace of
mind.
A polarizing filter
helps reduce reflections when taking photos through water and glass at an
angle. They also can eliminate blown-out
areas caused by light reflected off shiny objects such as silver on a saddle or
reflections from street pavement or foliage.
Polarizers also deepen the
color and contrast of the sky when shooting outside depending on the direction
your camera is pointed and the position of the sun in the sky. The effect is
strongest when your camera is pointed in a direction perpendicular to the
direction of the sun's incoming light. Meaning, if the sun is directly
overhead, the polarizing effect will be greatest near the horizon in all
directions.
With
digital cameras, filters have become less important since the
majority of them automatically adjust for white balance, plus you can
adjust this afterwards if you’re shooting photos with the RAW file format. There are some situations when a filter may
be helpful, such as situations with unusual lighting. You’ll have to play around with different
lighting arrangements in order to learn how best to
use your polarizer.
Filters
can sometimes cause “vignetting” which is caused by a
reduction in light at the edge of the lens. The barrel or sides of the lens
become visible, resulting in dark corners in the image.
The use of teleconverters can also result in vignetting.
It's an optical problem that, unfortunately, goes hand-in-hand
with making lenses affordable. The only true cure is to buy extremely expensive
professional lenses.
Filters are an
inexpensive way to protect a very expensive lens. For instance, if you’re photographing horses
outside in a lot of dirt and you attempt to clean your lens with a cleaning
cloth and you scratch the filter it’s about a $30.00 error. If you clean a lens that doesn’t have a
filter and scratch it, you have to replace the entire
lens. A filter is a great cost effective way to protect your investment.
A lens hood or lens
shade is a device used on the end of your camera lens to block the sun or other
light sources form the sides and helps prevent glare
or lens flare. Lens hoods are more
prominent with telephoto
lenses because the field of view has a
smaller viewing angle than wide-angle
lenses. For wide-angle lenses, the length
of the hood (away from the end of the lens) cannot be as long as those for
telephoto lenses because of the viewing angle.
In addition, a lens hood provides additional protection for the lens
because the hood extends farther than the lens itself.
A monopod is a
single pole used to help support cameras by allowing a still camera to be held steady.
This allows a photographer to take sharp pictures at slower shutter
speeds, and/or with longer focal length lenses.
When photographing
a horse show, which can easily be 5-9 hours each day, the monopod will help
keep your hand and arm from getting tired.
In
not a monopod, you can use a tripod: a three-legged stand that is used
for stabilization and support. The most
noticeable difference between tripods and monopods is that you need to hold a
monopod in place, and a tripod can be left to stand on its own. A monopod is
less stable than a tripod, but still more stable than hand holding.
A monopod is
lighter and less bulky than a tripod.
A memory card
(sometimes called a flash memory card or a storage card) is a small storage device used
to store data such as text, pictures, audio, and video, for use on small,
portable or remote computing devices.
There are a number of memory cards on the market depending on the type
of camera you purchase. I would
recommend always having more memory cards than you think you’ll need. There is nothing worse,
than working at an event and all of the sudden your
cards are full and you’re missing possible photo opportunities.
At a recent horse
photography event, I thought I’d purchased enough memory cards, but as it
turned out when shooting in RAW format my cards were full within a short period
of time. Luckily, a photographer next to me had a card I was able to borrow so
I didn’t miss any photo moments.
Note: memory cards
are now available in 16 gig or higher. My preference is 4 or 8 gig cards. If anything happens to the card or it’s defective you’re going to lose a lot more photos on a 16 gig
card than you will on a 4 gig card.
If decide to shoot
RAW image files, they take up more room than a JPG format, and that means more
memory cards if you’re out for an entire day shooting. Example, a 4 gig
memory card shooting JPG files can yield approximately 900 images whereas a 4
gig memory card shooting RAW files would yield approximately 350 photos.
A final note on
cards: I like to keep my cards in a compact flash case which is weather
sealed. My cards, when blank, are always
stored face up. When I’ve used that
card, I return it to the case backside up so I know
it’s been used. You don’t always have a lot of time to
swap out a used card for a new one, so this is a great way to know you’re
grabbing the right one.
Digital Camera’s
typically come with one battery. It’s
always a good idea to have at least two batteries fully charged before shooting
an event. Keep a fresh battery in the
camera and fresh battery in your equipment bag.
If you’re photographing
a horse event in the warm summer months you’ll notice
your battery charge will last longer than in cold weather.
A very handy
accessory is a belt pack or photographer’s vest. Either helps you keep things handy and your
hands free. The items in my belt pack
are extra memory cards, batteries, lens cloth, mini-first aid kit, business
cards, money, emergency information, notepad and a
pen. This way I have one camera on my
shoulder and the other around my neck and I don’t have to lug a big backpack or
bag around.
Assignment:
1. Spend a half hour a day, reading the
manual that came with your camera and familiarize yourself with the features
for your specific camera. This is a commitment to yourself that will help
you learn more. Now, it’s time to find a horse and begin taking photos of
them in different modes on your camera: Shutter priority (how long light hits
the film), aperture priority (how much light hits the film), and manual.
-
Remember: Aperture, also known as f-stop,
is your lens opening. Its size controls the amount of light entering
your camera. Aperture works in conjunction with your shutter speed, which
controls the length of time the shutter is open, allowing the light to hit your
camera’s sensor for a longer or shorter amount of time.
-
Please do not use the automatic mode on your
camera for this course, it won’t help you learn about your camera
and you will cheat yourself from the adventure.
·
Take a notebook with you and write down the
photo number and what you did for each image (it will help you remember and
compare what you’ve done). I’d like you to write down which mode you were
in (shutter priority, aperture priority, manual etc)
for each image.
·
Photograph a Still subject (animal/horse) - In
shutter priority with your shutter set at 1/60, 1/250, 1/500 and 1/1000.
·
Photograph a moving subject (animal/horse) - In
shutter priority with your shutter set at 1/60, 1/250, 1/500 and 1/1000.
(This will help you compare the difference between moving subjects versus a
still subject with the different shutter speeds.
·
Next I’d like you to take some headshots in aperture priority: - If
you haven’t already, put your camera in Aperture priority mode and start to
play around with your aperture settings. When you are in Aperture
priority mode, the cameras shutter speed will already
be set for you. (Manual mode allows you to control the aperture and
shutter speed).
-
Lens come in many
ranges. If your lens is a 2.8 work from one end
of the spectrum to the other. (If you don’t have a f/2.8 lens that’s
okay). Typically you’ll be working at 5.6, 8 and
11.
-
Remember to use different ISO (film
speed). Compare your results; this will help you learn to look for noise
and graininess in the image.
·
Last is photographing in manual mode on your
camera. In order to shoot properly exposed
images in manual mode, you will need to monitor and adjust the exposure meter.
Manual mode is useful for taking photographs in low light conditions where a
flash can’t be used. Select the manual mode on your camera (M). Set
your aperture to the desired F-stop. (You will need to be familiar
with your camera as each one is different on how to
change the F-stop and aperture. This should be in your owner’s manual to reference). Frame your shot, focus on the subject and look at the meter indicator inside your camera (typically
at the bottom). Set the correct shutter speed by turning the
thumbwheel (refer to your camera book) until the exposure meter indicates a
properly exposed photo. (Indicator needle will be in the center of the
scale).
-
Move around your subject. You will notice
the meter reading changes in your camera and you need to adjust for that.
Take 10 photos on manual mode. You might need a
tripod if you’re using shutter speeds slower than 1/60th of a sec. to prevent
blurred images
Please share one still, one moving, one headshot and one manual
mode image once you have finished your assignment. Choose your “best”
work. Make sure to include the mode you were shooting in, the shutter
speed, aperture and ISO for each assignment.
Please send
your pictures to info@lynettesmith.com