HORSE
PHOTOGRAPHY
Lynette Smith
LESSON FIVE
Defining Your Style as a Photographer
I. Photograph what you like. Find your passion
II. Culling your photos
III. Scouting the
location
IV. Right-brain
versus left-brain
V. Photography is subjective
VI. Tips
I. Find Your Passion
It’s important to photograph what you
like and find your style.
The best advice I can give is “shoot as
much as you can” so you can figure out your style.
Very
few people can do a good job photographing a myriad of subjects: food,
wildlife, lifestyle, news events, portraits, fashion, equestrian, etc. Having a niche (especially if it is what you
love most) makes you a better photographer.
Plus, once you determine your style it is much easier to market
yourself.
There
are some ups and downs that go with freelance photography. In the beginning, income can be a bit
bleak. You may have weeks between
assignments. How you handle the down
time can determine your success as a freelance photographer.
Photography
is an art, and like all artistic endeavors the individual style and talent of
the artist will be displayed in the finished product.
Horse
photography doesn’t lend itself to a conventional "how-to" approach,
except at the most basic level. It is
not like paint-by-numbers where you can say, “do this and do that” and you will
have “the exact same image I shot”.
Also, we don’t have the same expectations and we are definitely not
working with predictable ingredients.
Horses
and the weather are unpredictable.
That’s also the beauty of what we do.
The photos we shoot are unique images of amazing and beautiful
creatures. Many times the images that
become our favorites are the ones that were completely unplanned, what I like
to refer to as a “happy accident”.
When
photographing events it’s really easy to shoot a lot of photos. When you’re finished with the event the next
question is “now what do I do with all these photos?” “Do I post every single one?” This is where “culling your photos” will come
into play.
II. The Importance of Culling
The
definition of culling is to “remove something that has been rejected”. Remove anything you deem “not excellent
quality”. You do not want your clients
to see work that you already believe is “inferior.”
The “bloopers” of your photography session are
ones you would want to “cull”. Culling
is an excellent habit to cultivate.
When
you delete/cull your photos it also teaches you how to be a better
photographer. The word has its genesis
in ranching, but the idea is a good one: separating the weak from the strong,
for the purpose of making the remainder even stronger. Those powerful implications can also be
applied to digital photography.
Let’s
say you’re at a horse event and you snap 300 photos, about 20 per rider. The odds are that only a few photos will
capture the moment better than all the others.
It can be really challenging to make the judgment on some, and you might
have to do an A/B comparison several times before you decide which one to
remove.
Comparing images will help you start to look
at the entire photo more objectively and that in turn, helps you take better
photos. You will learn that it’s the
small details of a photo that make it better.
In some cases it will be the image itself, in others it may be more
technical (better exposure, angle, composition).
There
are times when photos in rapid succession capture an amazing moment that tells
a story throughout the series.
You
are a “pack-rat” if you keep 5 or more images which are nearly identical. By keeping all of your images, you never
truly analyze why one might be better than the other. You don’t learn to critically “look” at your
photography. By being critical of your
work, you’ll discover the types of photos you should strive for and that will
help you determine your style.
This
can be a challenging process for even the most talented photographer. I know it’s something that as a photographer
I struggle with frequently.
A
good general rule of thumb, don’t upload every image you’ve taken. As a photographer, I understand the
challenges in being selective and choosing the best images from a recent photo
shoot. I also know how easy it is to
upload every photo from your memory card and display every image.
Uploading
poor images takes diminishes the appeal and impact of your best images.
At
a recent horse drive in Colorado I was photographing horses for 8 hours a day
for several days in a row. It’s really
easy to take 10,000 plus images during that time. I spent days going through the images to
determine the “best ones” before adding them to my website.
I
started by going through the gallery and just deleting the ones that were
“bloopers, under-exposed, didn’t like them, not the right angles” etc. Then I went back through and rated the ones I
really liked versus the ones that were “okay”.
And then I decided which photos were “good” images I wanted others to
see.
Of
the 10,000 photos I took, only 100 will be uploaded. I want my clients and those looking at the
site to only see what I consider my best work.
Always
show off your “best.” You want to shine
for your prospective clients.
As
you’re culling/editing, consider your goals—what is it you want to achieve with
your images. What is the story you’re
trying to tell? And remember there are
times when “less is more”.
If
you’re covering a specific event and time frame try to keep your photos in a
structured order. For instance if you’re
photographing a horse show that has different events throughout the day, put
each event into a gallery rather than lumping all the photos into one.
If
your event has no timeline, then show the visual highlights. Arrange
the photos with your best first, and then mix it up a bit by displaying the
photos with contrasting colors or opposing distances for a memorable slide
show.
How Do You Know What Photos to Keep?
The
first images you want to cull are those that are out-of-focus, over exposed or
underexposed. Those will leave your viewer
with a negative impression about your work and that is “not” the goal.
Next
edit those where the subject’s expression is not flattering. They won’t appreciate those images either.
Now
do general sorting of your images in terms of individual images. What I mean by this is each image should be
visually strong enough to stand on its own.
Make sure you’re not presenting images with crooked horizons, extra
visual distractions, power cables going through heads, fences that cut the
image in half, skylines that run through the image in a not so flattering
light.
Click on these links to see
samples of images with visual distractions.
Some
photographers say for every 24 images you take, you’re lucky if you walk away
with two real keepers. This may be true
for commercial photographers, but for online photo sharing and equestrian
events you don’t have to be that strict.
If
you shoot 300 photos, you may want to eliminate all but 80 or so, and then
create sub-galleries for the event with the best images for each category.
It
is a good idea to rate your photos. I
mark them 1, 2, 3, 4, 5--1 is bad, and 5’s are the highest or “best” photos.
A 3 rating is saying, “I like the photo; I
might edit or crop it to get it to be a 5”.
A photo rated 1 is removed immediately.
After you’ve gone through all your photos and
eliminated those rated 1 or 2, have some friends or family to give you their
opinions about the remaining photos.
Their favorites might not be your favorites, but their opinions always
have merit.
This
is where we get into “photography is a subjective art form”. What one person loves another person may
really dislike.
Once
you have your favorite shots, you are ready to post them. Some photographers add captions and some
don’t. Due to time constraints, I don’t
add captions to the photos, I let the work speak for itself.
Bottom
line, while you’re learning it’s okay to take
lots of photos and cull from there. I tend to like to play around
with angles and settings to see which one works the best. I do not show
my clients every photo, as the editing process would be way too cumbersome,
however if a few angles or settings work, I will show a variety with the best
expressions.
Students
often ask if I post everything at the horse show? I don’t!
I’ve
learned is that it’s easier for me to take the images home and go through them
with a clear head and eye versus doing that at the show in a hurry. If you post everything at the show, you’ll be
showing “all” your work instead of just your “best” work.
The
other issue is having the time to do that.
It’s hard to take photos, download images to a computer, and upload them
for viewing all on your own. If you have
someone to help you, then perhaps this might be an option.
I’m
working the event shooting photos. When
the event is over, I work on the images at home with them being uploaded within
two days of the event.
At
the event, I have postcards to hand out with my website and details on
ordering. It’s worked well thus far.
The
other issue is setting up your computer in an area that can be very dusty….it’s not good for your equipment.
You
might want to talk with “show management” before the event to arrange a clean
place to set up your computer if think doing so will help attract sales.
III. Scouting the Location
Scouting
a location for your event is an essential process prior to photographing the
event. You want to scout for locations
prior to having a horse or handler involved.
The wrong or right location can make or break your photos.
By
scouting the location and having an idea of the scenery, you’ll be aware of
background, lighting and what the finished photo should look like. It’s a good habit to move around on location
so that every photo doesn’t look the same.
You’ll
want to know where you can work so that during the event there is always enough
distance between you and the horse, but not so much that someone can stand in
front of your camera and block your view.
If
possible, select an area of the arena that is neutral, pleasing and without a
busy background. This will create less
editing for you later and won’t draw attention away from your subject.
You want to pay attention to your
light source--where the sun is and where it’s going to be.
Do
not shoot into the sun. This likely will
create a photo image that’s washed out with lens flare. (Characterized as sun spots)
After
you’ve determined where you’re going to work, it’s a good idea to scout out a
few additional locations for award photos or when a rider requests some
additional shots outside. This will also
give you time to settle in, get comfortable and have some other ideas for
additional photo ops.
IV. Right Brain vs. Left Brain Photographers
Photography
offers us the opportunity to balance our thinking with feeling and our
intellect with intuition, as we respond to the world around us through our
images. It is a way of expressing ourselves artistically, but with technical
competency.
Photography
is a balanced mix of left and right-brained activity. The basic premise is that there are two kinds
of photographers. Left brained: extreme
precision, following the rules of composition (rule of thirds, leading lines,
etc.), like to plan things out while expressing a specific vision. Right brained: shooting from
instinct, suspending thought, and just taking the photo when things look/feel
right. A right brained photographer will release the shutter when it “feels”
right.
I
think it’s important that you understand the kind of photographer you are:
knowing your own thought processes will help you develop as a creative artist.
You
will find that if you are a left brain thinker you may be the photographer that
examines, explains or rationalizes the subjects in your photographs. You’re going to appreciate the more technical
aspects and knowledge of the camera’s controls.
You’re not afraid to take the camera out of “automatic” and you are
excited to try the different camera options.
Your
photo will show or tell a story about a place, event or moment. Your photos allow the viewer to understand
exactly what happened and tends to be more of a journalistic approach. This type of thinking tends to also be more
linear.
Right-brained
photographers typically jump right into shooting a subject without much thought
or planning. It’s more of a “feel”.
The
technical side of the camera will be a bit more challenging at first. Your approach to capturing images is to
photograph a sequence of time or possibly document an action. Trying to explain your photo will also be a
challenge for you. You tend to work in a
more impulsive way. This type of
thinking tends to be more holistic, intuitive and random. It is the creative
side of photography that allows you to lose
all sense of time.
Later,
when you start looking at your photos, you may discover 90 amazing shots from
your memory card and not be able to recall how you captured those moments. When you’re photographing you’re “in the
zone,” and it’s literally just you and your camera. Right-brained thinking can also enable you to
solve photographic problems in some wonderfully “out-there” ways.
If
you can determine which way you naturally want to think about photography, it’s
a good idea to attempt to work the other side of your mind so you can find some
creative balance.
Here are a
few exercises for developing right brain photography.
1. Break all the rules. Play with your aperture and shutter controls
in Aperture and Shutter Priority mode.
If you “think” a shot needs f-22 for the depth of field, use a wide
aperture such as f-5.6 and change your focus point. Also set a slower shutter speed for a
specific scene that you wouldn’t normally use.
2. When you think you’re close enough – get
closer.
3. Over and under-expose your subject at 3 full
f-stops. Set a slower shutter speed than
one that you would normally use for a specific shooting situation. Allow
yourself to make mistakes.
4. If you use a tripod to get a sharp image,
shake the tripod for a few frames and see what you get. You may be pleasantly surprised.
When
you look over the results of your experiments, remember to view them in the
same spirit as you created them. You may not like them all, but some
"mistakes" may turn into your favorite photos. One of my favorite images is my horse jumping
through the air. The settings were off, the horse is blurred, but the photo has
served me well. It was more of a “feel”
moment than a technological one; I cannot explain how I captured that moment
other than “it just felt right”.
The
more you practice, the more you will be comfortable using both technology and
inspiration. You will find your visual
intuition will expand and nurture your intuitive responses.
Here are a few exercises for developing left brain
photography.
1.
Explore the technical side of your
camera by experimenting with the aperture and shutter controls. Write down what you did. Photograph a subject from the same location
with a variety of apertures so you can learn what each one will look like. Make sure you keep your focus point
consistent so you have uniform results.
Next do the same with your shutter speeds. Choose some of the faster speeds like 1/250th
to 1/1000th and then the opposite end of the spectrum working with ˝
to 1/15th of a second.
Remember your ability to use various settings depends on the film speed
you use as well as the lens type, subject matter, available light etc.
2.
Think about the focus point you used
above and why did you choose it? Where
was the light? What type of metering did
you use and why? Why did you compose
horizontally or vertically?
3.
Photograph a person and try to reveal
the emotion of your subject while treating your subject as objectively as
possible.
As you
begin to learn to use both hemispheres of your brain, wonderful side effects
occur. The development of the left and right brain “seeing” will begin to cross
over. Fine tuning these combinations of
thinking and feeling, intellect and intuition, technique and aesthetic will
help you to find your own vision and share it with others. Eventually, the
camera owner’s manual will just be another tool and not something you cringe at
reading.
V. Photography is Subjective
Photography is a passion of mine; I
love it with all my heart. It releases me, teaches me, helps me escape, and
helps me appreciate the everyday things.
What
I have come to learn is photography is a highly subjective medium. Photography means different things to
different people, and I am no exception.
The more you learn and experience, the easier it is to understand
how two people can perceive the exact same image in an entirely different
way. Put 10 people in a room and show
them the same image, and there will likely be as many differing opinions about
the image as there are participants.
There
are at least four levels of reality working here: the physical object, the
unique perception, the technical skill of the photographer, and the unique
perception by the viewer. In other words, not only is the technical or artistic
skill possessed by the photographer responsible for the resulting image, but
another whole dimension is added by how the viewer sees it.
If
someone doesn’t like the photographs you shoot, don’t get discouraged. They are most likely seeing the image in a
completely different way. That doesn’t
mean it’s a bad image.
If
you have the opportunity, ask questions.
Why doesn’t the person like the photo?
What isn’t appealing? What would make
the photo better? Be open minded; you
may not see what the other person sees, but you can learn from a different
point of view.
VI. Photography Tips
Color – Work with the colors around you. Bright blue sky, green grass, tall tan
grasses in a field. Get creative; play
with the colors in your images so they will stand out.
Include the environment around
you in your photos –
Look for locations with interesting backgrounds, barns with unique textures,
doorways, stairwells, landscapes, isle ways.
Variety – is the spice of life!
Take a lot of photos – You can always cull. from
there. I tend to like to play around with angles and settings to see
which one works the best. I do not show my clients every photo. However if a few angles or settings work, I
will show a variety with the best expressions.
Edit your photos – Don’t upload every photo that you
shoot. Post only great photos. Some riders want to purchase “every” photo
taken of their ride (I’m one of those people).
Just don’t put the so-so photos online.
Use creative angles – Don’t get stuck taking the same
photo the same way. Look at things
differently. Get down below your
subject, above your subject, through fences, over rails. Look beyond what you see. Look above, below, to the side and
around. Tilt your camera, just because
it photographs vertical and horizontal doesn’t mean you have to work with those
two options.
Natural expressions – Personally I don’t like cheesy smiles or images where people
are sticking out their tongue. Remember
your name is also attached to these images.
I prefer genuine smiles and natural poses.
Props and accessories – When using
props or accessories, be thoughtful. For
starters, if you’re using an umbrella, basket or anything that might move in a
breeze, be positive the horse is okay with the prop. No matter what my client says, I always
introduce the item to the horse before anyone gets on the horse. After the rider is mounted, show the prop to
the horse again. The last thing you want
is a frightened horse. .
Life-style type shots -- Although
I do pose people, what I’m aiming for is shots that look natural and real. I
like shots of people walking, talking and interacting naturally. Of
course I always take some of them looking at the camera, but I’m always trying
to get a few life-style shots.
Assignment:
1. I would like
you to share with me your thoughts on whether you are a left
brained or right brained photographer.
2. Take some
photos and decide which part of your brain decided to hit the shutter
release. Then email/upload one or two of your photos and explain to me
the details of the image. Please use a horse – photos without a horse as the
subject will earn a lower grade.
Please send your assignment
and pictures to info@lynettesmith.com