Equine Massage

LESSON SIX

 

I.                Basic Principles

II.             Massage Techniques and Modalities

III.          Massage Tools

 

This lesson looks at massage modalities and techniques. 

 

My goals are:

RELIEVE tension and soreness by loosening tight muscles. 

 

RESTORE an injured muscle or muscles to a healthy state.

 

REBALANCE the entire muscular system of the body, adjusting of balance areas.

 

 

I. BASIC PRINCIPLES

 

I have three basic working premises for achieving my goals.  First, describe what it is that I want to accomplish.  Second, describe the primary method I will use.  Third, recognize the importance of the mind/body connection.  These three basic principles are the foundation of everything I do in my massage work.

 

The first step is to attempt to create an anatomically correct body.  My aim is to come as close to an anatomically correct body as the horse’s problems will allow.  In order to do this, I must have a clear picture of the body’s anatomy; how the bones and muscles are arranged for the most comfortable and efficient movement based on this anatomy.

 

          The second step is to use the “contract to relax” method of massage.  Regardless of what massage techniques I’m using (and there are many), those that cause a tight or sore muscle to contract or tighten more will facilitate a greater release.  So, the most basic and efficient method of getting tight muscles to release their tension is to first get them to contract more—“contract to relax.”

 

          The third step is recognizing the mind/body connection.  The mind affects the body and the body affects the mind.  In order for these releases to become permanent, the sub-conscious, habitual movement patterns may have to be changed.  Sometimes it requires special exercises to re-program a body’s movement patterns.  The body has to be made aware that there are alternatives to the way it is accustomed to doing a task.  Until the body becomes aware that there are other ways of doing a job, it cannot make changes. 

 

 

ANATOMICALLY CORRECT BALANCE

 

I touched on this concept of correct anatomical balance in lesson 2 (anatomy). I discussed “specific intent” in an earlier lesson.  Specific intent is a concept that involves more than just doing massage to loosen a muscle.  It involves being able to see how the dysfunctional muscle (or muscles) affect the whole structure, and once the tight, sore or injured muscles have been loosened, how they have to be re-integrated with the other muscles (the ones with which they work).  And then, finally, the area has to be re-balanced with the entire muscular/skeletal system.

 

          So, we will be doing massage with the specific intent of bringing the body back into anatomical balance.

 

But first we have to have a good understanding of what constitutes “anatomical balance”.

 

Both the skeleton and muscles are arranged as mirror images on each side of the spine.  Because both sides are the same in structure and function, they work best when their movement is the closest to being the same.  We call this concept “symmetry”.

 

Any discrepancies in the way the two sides work diminishes their effectiveness, both longitudinally as well as laterally.  When they are not working the same, we describe it as being asymmetrical, or crooked.  This problem can range from minor to quite severe.

 

There are a number of reasons why a horse could be crooked.  The most common is the horse’s inborn, innate “sidedness”.  In people we refer to this as being right or left handed.

 

Other reasons for a horse’s asymmetry could be injuries that have caused the horse to use its body in different ways to compensate for the injury; or poor riding habits and training techniques that have thrown the body out of balance.

 

Fortunately, almost all types of crookedness are responsive to massage.

 

How a horse shows its crookedness is unique to each individual, but there are some patterns that are fairly common.  It’s important for you to recognize them because they will have a lot to do with how you approach the massage.  Below are three diagrams that show a horse in perfect lateral balance and the two most common deviations.

 

If a horse were totally symmetrical (straight), its spine would be straight from poll to sacrum (no curves to either side), its rib cage would be perpendicular to the ground (no tilt to either side).  A line drawn from the point of one shoulder to the other would be at right angles to the vertebrae of the rib cage, and a line drawn from the point of one hip to the other would also be at right angles to the spine.  (See diagram A)

 

Diagram A

The Balanced Horse

 

 

Diagram A is the theoretical ideal, but all horses are going to be crooked; some more that others.

 

When a horse is crooked, the rib cage will usually tilt in such a way that the withers will lean to one side (usually to the right), and the lower portion of the rib cage will swing out in the opposite direction (usually to the left).  When this happens, the position of the shoulder blades on the rib cage will change.  The shoulder joints will no longer be at right angles to the spine.

 

The tilt of the rib cage also affects the tension in the muscles on either side of it.  The muscles on one side (usually the right) will have more contraction than those on the other.  If this uneven muscle tension extends into the loins (lumbar area) the balance of the pelvis will also be affected and the points of the hips will no longer be at right angles to the spine.

 

Diagram B

Haunches Left

“C” Curve

 

 

One of the most common ways for the body to be crooked, or go out of balance, is shown in diagram B.  The haunches move to the left of the line of travel and the forehand weight is thrown onto the right shoulder.  On a circle to the right the horse will usually make the circle smaller as it goes around.

 

Diagram C

Haunches Right

“S” Curve

 

 

Diagram C shows the other most common deviation from “straight”.  In this one, the horse brings it haunches to the right of the line of travel.  There is usually more contraction of the loin muscles in this deviation and not as much rib cage tilt.  The horse will usually “pop” its left shoulder and the drive from the hindquarters will push the horse off in the direction of the left shoulder.

 

This type of asymmetry will make it difficult for the horse to turn to the right; it will very likely turn its head and neck to the right, but keep going off to the left.

 

These are the two most common deviations from symmetry.  They can also be modified and complicated by training, handling and injuries.

 

Once you understand this concept of anatomical balance and develop a sense for seeing the asymmetry (both in the horse’s movement and response to your touch), you will be prepared to sort through all the compensations and deviations.  Recognizing the compensations and deviations allows you to decide what massage needs to be done.

 

In addition to the problems created by the lateral asymmetries, lateral crookedness also has a great influence on longitudinal balance.  If the two sides of a horse cannot work to the same degree, it prevents the horse from driving from the hindquarters evenly, it can’t lift its back and it cannot take even contact with the bit.

 

Training techniques that force a horse to assume body positions that are uncomfortable will cause horses to find all kinds of ways of compensating, and becoming crooked is one of the more common.

 

An unbalanced rider can also make a horse crooked.  A horse’s body, in order to try to be comfortable under a rider, will gradually adjust and conform to the way the rider’s body either allows or inhibits the horse’s body movement.  If you are tuned to this concept of symmetry and balance, you may notice posture patterns in riders that indicate they are unbalanced and either causing or contributing to the horse’s problems.

 

You will have a chance to work with the rider’s problems when you start working out remedial exercises for the horse (lesson 8).  At that point you may have the opportunity to discuss these imbalances with the rider, explaining the effects on the horse and suggest the rider also get some body massage.  Do this with as much tact as possible.  

 

 

CONTRACT TO FACILITATE RELEASE

 

One of the most effective ways to get a tight, contracted or sore muscle to release tension is to first get it to contract more.  Most of my work, regardless of what massage techniques I’m using, is based on this principle.

 

My basic approach is to apply enough pressure to a tight muscle to get it to make a response.  That response will be a contraction.  When I release the pressure, the contracted muscle will respond by relaxing and being able to stretch.  This stretch may be very small at first, but gradually more and more of the muscle will release.

 

This process is called Tense-Relax-Stretch.  It is used frequently in human sports massage therapy.  The description of this Tense-Relax-Stretch says that by intentionally causing a specific muscle to tense, we can get a greater subsequent relaxation and stretch of that muscle.  Example: tense muscle A—release the tension—stretch muscle A.

 

The pressure needed to get a contraction from a tight muscle will vary with the horse.  Certain types of horses (those with dense, bulky muscles) are more likely to tighten muscles in response to stress or injury than to exhibit soreness.  If this type of muscling goes into tight, contracted spasms, it may require considerable pressure initially to initiate the contract/relax response. 

 

With a lighter muscled horse, or one that is very sore, even very light pressure will cause the muscles to contract and begin the release process.  With this type of horse, you will have to be very sensitive to the amount of pressure used to start this release process.  Too much pressure will add to the horse’s discomfort.

 

         

MIND/BODY CONNECTIONS AND AWARENESS

 

My first two basic premises dealt with the primary goal of my massage work (the return to, and maintenance of, anatomical balance) and the basic physiological effect (tense-relax-stretch) that I primarily use to accomplish this.

 

The third step involves the concept that much of how we use our bodies is done by habit (habitual responses) and our conscious mind loses touch with what is really happening in our bodies.

 

Habitual movement patterns are governed by our sub-conscious.  Once we learn to perform a task, we no longer have to think about how we do it.  These habitual patterns are very important in our lives, because without them we would have to learn to walk, use a fork and brush our teeth all over again every day.

 

In learning, we repeat that which was successful; so how we first learn to accomplish a task is the way we will continue to do it—we will repeat what was successful.

 

Many patterns develop in our early learning years (how we walk is a prime example) and one therapist said that how we take our first steps is how we will walk forever unless there is some intervention.  Other patterns develop as we learn to do new things.

 

But not all of the patterns we learn are good for our bodies.  Some movement patterns can eventually cause problems.  Because they become so deeply ingrained in the sub-conscious, they are very difficult to change—we cannot change something of which we are totally unaware.

 

Horses have unconscious habitual movement patterns just as we do, and for the same reasons.  They also do things on “automatic pilot” or “because that’s the way I always do it”. 

 

In order to make permanent changes in a muscle’s tension and restore correct movement, it is not always enough to just loosen and rebalance the muscles.  We have to have some way of making these changes permanent; otherwise the old, sub-conscious patterns will gradually pull the horse’s body back into its old, familiar ways.  We have to change the pattern in the mind as well as in the body. 

 

There are two ways I approach this problem.  First the massage will make the horse more aware of its body and its responses to pressure.  Second, I use remedial and rehabilitative exercises to re-program the body for more correct movement.  I describe these exercises in lesson 8.

 

 

SOME GENERAL INFORMATION

 

The following is general information that will be helpful when doing massage on horses.

 

1.    It is difficult to do good massage work if you have long finger nails; you have to be prepared to keep them quite short.

 

2.    You will be more effective in your massage work if you can work equally well with both hands—practice being ambidextrous.  If you primarily use the same hand to work on both sides of the body, the way you affect the muscles of the two sides will be different.

 

3.    In almost all instance, the direction of the hair follows the direction of the muscles.  If you work with the direction of the hair, you are going with the length of the muscle; if you go across the hair, you are going across the muscle fibers.

 

4.    In general, movement and pressure across the muscle fibers is more intense than movement and pressure that goes with the muscle fibers.

 

 

 

“How Much Pressure Should You Use?”

 

This is one of the most common questions.

 

You have to use enough pressure to get a response from the muscles.  At the beginning of this lesson I talked about the tense-relax-stretch technique.  The pressure that you use has to be enough to cause the muscle to tense (contract), even if only minutely.  Without this muscle response, your massage will be purely superficial, not much more than what a good grooming would accomplish.  That’s okay as part of a preliminary warm-up, but it will not affect muscle tension at any deep level.

 

You also have to be aware that one horse may react to a much lighter pressure than another horse.  This will depend primarily on the density and bulk of the muscles of the horse.

 

Sore muscles are going to be much more reactive to pressure than muscles that are tight but not particularly sore.

 

Any kind of massage that begins to use deeper pressure can cause discomfort, and you will have to be very sensitive to the horse’s reaction.  Highly sensitive horses will need a much lighter touch, and with some horses, in the initial stages of your massage work, your pressure may be affecting primarily the skin and nerve endings.

 

Horses with a normal level of sensitivity will allow you to work down into the muscles without over-reacting like the super-sensitive horse.

 

Horses with tight, dense muscles will require a lot of pressure just to separate the muscle fibers of the superficial layer so that they can achieve some small amount of loosening; beginning to improve circulation.

 

Working down into the deeper muscles will take time on the highly sensitive and the dense, tight horse.

 

Regardless of the type of horse and the number of times it has been massaged, the techniques and pressure that you use must always be adjusted to the horse’s level of sensitivity.  Every horse will tell you its tolerance level to pressure.  You will have to work within those parameters.  As the massage progresses and the horse begins to relax, you can use deeper pressure.  But the initial work should start at a level the horse can tolerate.

 

In subsequent massage sessions, all horses will improve in their ability to release tension and soreness to lighter touches.

 

Don’t hold pressure for long periods, especially if the horse indicates discomfort with the pressure.

 

I use a “press and release” technique.  I press until I feel some kind of movement or change in the area.  I might hold the pressure 10 – 15 seconds, or I might release almost immediately—it depends on the horse’s reaction—but then I’ll immediately reapply the pressure.

 

If a horse leans into my pressure, this is an indication that the muscles are tight, but not sore.  I’ll use heavy pressure and hold it for several seconds.  If the horse does not move away from the pressure, I’ll release and then immediately reapply pressure.  Working on tight muscles, I use pressure that has a lot of my body weight behind it.

 

Often, if the horse is braced against my pressure and I release it quickly, the horse is thrown off balance for a moment.  If, during that moment, I reapply the pressure the horse may move and cause the muscle to rebalance, even if only slightly.  These small rebalancing movements will begin to release the tightness.

 

If a horse “flinches” from pressure, it indicates that the area is sore.  In this case, I’ll be mindful of the horse’s sensitivity as I apply pressure, release quickly, then reapply and release.  This type of press/release causes muscle contractions that begin the release process. Gradually, you’ll feel the muscle yield to your touch without flinching.

 

I often demonstrate the difference between good muscle tone, a tight muscle and a sore muscle by having the student put a fist on my ribs and push.  I will first push back against their pressure and explain this is the reaction you get when muscles are tight, but not sore.

 

Then I’ll have the student push and I’ll flinch and jump away from the pressure.  I explain this is the reaction you get when muscles are sore.

 

Finally, the student will push and I’ll let my body move and sway with the pressure, explaining the reaction results from muscles that are in good condition and capable of proper contraction and extension.  Muscles in good tone might feel like dense foam rubber under your fingers.  

 

One last thought about pressure: In massage, speed determines depth.  The slower you work, the deeper the pressure can be.

 

 

 

II. MASSAGE TECHNIQUES AND MODALITIES

 

This section describes a number of massage techniques that I have found to work effectively on horses.  Some of these I use extensively, some occasionally, depending on the horse and its particular problems.  Some of my preferences are based on my size and strength.  I will be asking you to try all of them in order to find those that work best for you.  Depending upon your size and strength, your favorites may be different from my favorites.

 

          In doing massage, you will use your hands and fingers in a number of different ways.  See the accompanying pictures.

 

1.    Thumb pressure.  This is very strong, deep pressure applied at one point.  Click here for picture.

 

2.    Finger tips.  This pressure won’t be as strong as thumb pressure.  I use it frequently on sore backs.  Click here for picture.

 

3.    Fingers supported by the thumb.  This gives more pressure than fingertips alone. (No picture available.)

 

4.    Heel of the hand.  This is a broad soft pressure that does not go deep.  It’s good for superficial muscles.  Click here for picture.

 

5.    Fist.  This pressure is deeper and harder than the heel of the hand.  Click here for picture.

 

 

6.    Thumb and fist.  Here the fist supports the thumb when using deep, static pressure. Click here for picture.

 

7.    Elbow.  The elbow can exert strong, deep pressure similar to thumb pressure.  I find it useful along the sides of the horse when I can’t effectively use other techniques and the horse wants to lean into my pressure. Click here for picture.

 

8.    Palm of the hand.  This is a very light pressure that I use with some of the softer techniques at the end of a massage session.

     Click here for picture.

 

Click the link below or paste into web browser to watch a video demonstrating the eight positions

http://s755.photobucket.com/user/BLLindquist/media/HandDemoMovie3.mp4.html

(Videos Work Best With Chrome - download here: https://www.google.com/chrome/browser/)

 

 

THE MODALITIES

 

EFFLEURAGE

The first, and most basic, massage stroke is effleurage.  It can be done with fingertips, the heel of the hand, the fist or the entire palm of the hand.  It is a long, gliding stroke that goes from one end of a muscle to the other.  Effleurage is done by moving in the direction of the muscle.  It works best on long muscles, especially the long back muscles.  Click here for picture.

 

 

Effleurage can be superficial or deep.

 

Superficial effleurage’s primary intent is relaxation and improved circulation.  When used on horses it will resemble a good, thorough grooming and can be used, if necessary, on highly sensitive horses in the first session.  Superficial effleurage can give you important information about the degree of tightness or soreness in a muscle and is effective in warming muscles up.

 

Deep effleurage is effective at loosening tight muscles and releasing tension.

 

Deep effleurage will use slower, heavier pressure, and, as the hand or fingers go through healthy muscle tissue, it will feel as if it is pushing a wave in front of it.

 

The best description is to compare it to clay and the different consistencies of clay.  Clay that is easy to work allows your fingers to mold it without resistance, but some clays will be stiffer and harder and will resist you finger pressure.

 

Some clay will feel soft and squishy, without strength.  Sometimes the clay will have a good consistence, but there will be knots of harder clay within it.

 

In muscles these hard spots will be trigger points, spasm, adhesions or coagulated blood.  If you have an opportunity to work with some clay, by all means do so.  There is much similarity in feel between muscles and clay.

 

Another good comparison would be kneading bread dough.  It has the same elastic quality that good muscle tone will exhibit.

 

Another comparison: a smooth feel in a muscle would be pushing your fingers into creamy peanut butter.  Muscles with knots and hard spots will feel like chunky peanut butter.

 

When you’re using effleurage and your fingers run into an obstruction as they’re moving through a muscle (chunky peanut butter), you will then switch to another technique—one that is more appropriate for what you are feeling in the muscle.

 

If you’re using deep effleurage and there is bone behind the muscle, such as in the shoulder blade, the pressure of your hands pushing the muscle against the bone will help facilitate greater spreading of the muscle fibers.

 

Click link below to watch a video demonstrating Effleurage

http://s755.photobucket.com/user/BLLindquist/media/EffleurageDemoMovie1.mp4.html?sort=3&o=9

 

 

CONNECTIVE TISSUE MASSAGE

Connective tissue occurs throughout the body and forms a covering for muscles, bones, joints and organs of the body—it ties everything together.  It does not have the elasticity that muscle fibers have; its job is to hold the muscle fiber together and give them shape and strength.  Sometimes this connective tissue can become constricted and bound up and does not allow the muscles the freedom of movement that they might otherwise enjoy.

 

It is possible to release, spread and expand the connective tissue that is just under the skin.  Click here for picture.

 

Connective tissue massage has similarities to effleurage in technique, but the intent is different.

 

Effleurage spreads the muscle fibers; the intent of connective tissue massage is to spread only the fascia that covers the muscles.  It stays more on the surface rather than going into the muscle.

 

The pressure is light and not particularly penetrating.  The speed is slow.  Use your fingertips, going in the direction of the muscle fibers.

 

It can be compared to moving and spreading toothpaste in an almost empty tube.  Try to visualize moving a small amount of toothpaste around in a tube with your fingertips. You’re not trying to move through the muscle (that would be more like pushing your fingers into a full tube of toothpaste), but, rather, just over the surface covering.

 

Connective tissue massage on a horse will have its best use in areas that have considerable connective tissue.  These would be the fascia section of the Latissimus dorsi in the horse’s back, the fascia covering that connects the External obliques to the Rectus abdominis (the lower portion of the horse’s sides just below the rib cage) and the Internal obliques (the groin area).

 

Look at your anatomy charts and see if you find other areas with considerable exposed fascia that could benefit from connective tissue work.

Click link below to watch a video demonstrating Connective Tissue Massage

http://s755.photobucket.com/user/BLLindquist/media/ConnectiveTissueDemoMovie1.mp4.html?sort=3&o=8

 

 

 

FRICTION

Friction is heavy pressure applied in short, quick, back and forth strokes by fingertips and thumb.  The direction of motion can be circular, across the fibers or with the fibers.  The most effective is across the fibers.  Click here for picture.

 

It is also very effective when used at the attachment ends of muscles, either the origins or insertions.

 

It is used to break up hard knots of muscle fibers that have stuck together or to break up scar tissue.

 

Friction can also be used around joints to loosen tight muscles that cross the joints.

 

This can be an intense technique—too much can be irritating, and it may not be appropriate for some horses, most notably highly sensitive horses or those that are very sore.

 

Using a stiff rubber curry comb that allows you to cover a broader area as you move back and forth across a muscle is not as intense as using your fingers, and this can still be effective.

 

Deep cross-fiber friction is an even more intense version of friction-- THIS IS NOT SOMETHING I USE OR RECOMMEND ON HORSES, ESPECIALLY NOT ON LOWER LEG TENDONS.  There are two reasons for not doing so.  First, it can actually do additional damage if done incorrectly.  Second, it can be very uncomfortable and beyond what most horses can tolerate.

 

Click link below to watch a video demonstrating Friction

http://s755.photobucket.com/user/BLLindquist/media/FrictionDemoMovie1.mp4.html?sort=3&o=0

 

 

COMPRESSION

Compression is a technique that I find very versatile and the one that I use the most.

 

Compression massage is done by applying pressure into the body of a muscle.  I find it most effective when used as a rhythmic push and release process.  It can be done with the heel of the hand, the back of the fist, fingertips, an elbow or a stiff rubber curry comb.  Each of these is appropriate for different areas of the body.

 

This technique loosens tight muscles and relieves soreness in two ways.  First by pressing the muscle against deeper muscles or against a bone it will begin to spread the muscle fibers.  It is very effective at doing this with the muscles that cover the shoulder blade (scapula).  Click here for picture.

 

Secondly and more importantly, it is a good way to initiate the “tense-relax-stretch” process.  For this, you use intermittent compression, pushing into the muscle, releasing the pressure, and then pushing again.  This pumping action increases circulation by allowing fresh blood to flow into the area as the pressure is released.

 

Compression can be used on large or small muscles and everything in-between.

 

The heel of the hand works well on the large muscle areas and can exert pressure over a fairly broad surface.  It works well on the sides of the torso and the top of the haunches.  Click here for picture.

 

Using the back of your fist works well on the attachments of muscles to the lower neck vertebrae.  This also works well on the haunches.

 

Fingertip compression can exert a great deal of pressure in a small area and is very effective on the long back muscles.

 

Using your elbow will be helpful and efficient when the horse leans into your pressure.  The elbow, as the fingertips, exerts a lot of pressure in a small area.

 

In using compression to initiate the tense-relax-stretch reflex, you’ll want to know how much pressure to use and how long to hold it before the release—well, the horse will tell you.  Each horse will be a little different, so use as much pressure as the horse needs to contract the muscle.  Once the muscle contracts, you will release.   A few tries and you’ll know just how much pressure is the right pressure.

 

When using compression, the loosening comes from the release of the pressure.  If you are working with a horse that is very tight, but not particularly sore, the reaction to your pressure will be different than that of a sore horse.  The tight horse will most likely lean into the pressure and, at first, you will have to be the one that releases the pressure.  Gradually the horse will learn to release the pressure by yielding.

 

I usually maintain pressure for 5 – 10 seconds, pushing hard against the muscle, then release, and then push again.  Gradually the horse will begin to make small adjustments in its balance.  These small adjustments are the beginnings of tension release, and you’ll see signs of relaxation.

 

If the muscles are sore, the horse will react quickly to the pressure and will flinch or quickly move away from your hand.  In that case, release the pressure, and then re-apply it.   With time and application you’ll find the horse’s response to your pressure changes.   The horse will give a little in the muscle, but not flinch or jerk away.  With this reaction you should also see the horse’s eyes soften.  The horse may lower his head and neck and it will chew or yawn.  Many times, as you see these signs, you will also feel the muscle release, or “melt”, under your fingertips.  Eventually, you’ll be able to feel the release before the horse does and you’ll know that he is going to relax and chew.

 

This relaxing and chewing is very noticeable when you’re working on the horse’s back and its poll, but you’ll get the same responses in other parts of the body as the muscles relax.

 

          Holding a small, fairly stiff curry comb in your palm while doing compression is effective with tight horses that lean into pressure.  In this case, I will often push into the muscle and then rotate the curry comb slightly to the right.  The additional “bite” of the curry comb will help spread the muscle fibers as well as initiating the tense-release process.

 

Click link below to watch a video demonstrating Compression

http://s755.photobucket.com/user/BLLindquist/media/CompressionDemoMovie1.mp4.html?sort=3&o=7

 

 

MUSCLE COMBING

Muscle combing is just what the name implies—combing across or with the fibers.  It’s an effective way of separating muscle fibers, especially in tight, dense muscles.

 

Even though I most often use it on heavier muscles, it also works well on sensitive, thin-skinned horses.  It all depends on how much pressure you use.

 

Muscle combing differs from friction in that it is a more superficial technique, affecting the surface layer of muscles.

 

On a sensitive horse it will usually be nothing more than scratching an area with your fingertips.  The sensitive horse will find the pressure well within its tolerance level and may actually show enjoyment.  It can be a good way of letting the nervous horse get accustomed to your touch.

 

When working with the heavy, dense muscled horse, you’ll often find the muscle fibers are so tight you can’t get them to separate and you can’t seem to get a response with other techniques.  In this case, the pressure of your combing will have to be stronger.  I often use an actual comb (metal mane comb or a big plastic comb) to start the loosening process.

 

The types of horses generally requiring this technique are the foundation style Quarter Horse (very heavy muscled), some warmbloods and heavy draft horses.

 

The places where combing is most effective are the back muscles, the surface of the shoulder blades and tops of the haunches. Click here for picture.

 

The one disadvantage I’ve found to muscle combing on dense, tight muscles is that occasionally, the day after the massage, a horse may seem somewhat stiff in the areas that were combed.  This is a result of the amount of pressure you may have had to use.  This stiffness will only last a day.  I always explain to the owner of this type of horse that the “stiffness” might occur.

 

Once the muscles begin to release, you will be able to use other, less intrusive, techniques.

 

Muscle combing is not a technique that I have much occasion to use, but it’s a good one to know when you need it.

 

Click link below to watch a video demonstrating Muscle Combing

http://s755.photobucket.com/user/BLLindquist/media/MuscleCombingDemoMovie1.mp4.html?sort=3&o=6

 

 

KNEADING

Kneading is a technique that has limited applications, but works well on some big muscle masses that do not have bone behind them.   

 

The two areas where I use kneading are the muscles between the hind legs (adductors) and the chest muscles in front of the fore legs.  Click here for picture.

 

I use my fingertips to knead and work the muscles much like a kitten will knead its mother’s stomach as it nurses.  Though I describe this kneading as being like kitten paws, it does not necessarily mean the pressure will be light.  As with any other massage technique, you have to gage your pressure to the horse’s responses.

 

The muscles of the haunches between the hind legs are often very tight; sometimes so tight it’s difficult to get your hand between them.  To do this work, stand next to the horse’s hind leg, facing in the same direction as the horse and slide your hand between the haunches from behind.  If you’re standing next to the left hind, you would slide your right hand between the legs.  Use your fingertips to knead all of the muscles on the inside of the left haunch.

 

When you’ve had a good response, go to the horse’s right side and repeat, using your left hand on the inside of the right haunch.

 

In addition to releasing tightness in these muscles, there is another advantage to this work between the hind legs.  Most horses don’t seem to object to it and it lets you introduce the horse to touch and pressure in this area.  This way the horse can get comfortable with the idea of being touch in that area before you start massage in the sensitive area of the groin.

 

The muscles of the chest in front of the fore legs are part of the system that holds the fore legs to the rib cage from below and they also bring the front legs forward.  They go from the breast bone (sternum) to the humerus and the radius.

 

In many horses, especially those that take short steps and are heavy on the forehand, these muscles can be very tight.  You would use the same kneading with your fingertips as you did between the hind legs.

 

Fortunately all of these muscles are good size and easy to get your fingers into.

 

Click link below to watch a video demonstrating Kneading

http://s755.photobucket.com/user/BLLindquist/media/KneadingDemoMovie1.mp4.html?sort=3&o=3

 

 

STRESS POINTS AND TRIGGER POINTS

 

Stress points and trigger points are quite different in where they occur and what causes them, but the technique for releasing them is the same—deep fingertip pressure.

 

 

STRESS POINTS

"Stress Points" are spots in the body where stress can build up and cause soreness.  They are caused by stress and over-use of the muscular system as a result of the exertion and training involved in the various types of athletic sports where we use our horses.  They will be found at the origin portion of a muscle, where it attaches to a bone.  When a muscle is being used, this portion can be can be affected by stress more than the other parts because of the lesser amount of elasticity in that area of the muscle.  Click here for picture.

 

 

TRIGGER POINTS

“Trigger Points” are quite different.  The full name is neuromuscular trigger points and there is a nerve component to them.  This nerve component is not present in stress points.

 

A trigger point is a small, localized spot of hyper-sensitivity within a muscle; it has a lower pain threshold than the rest of the muscle. With trigger points the spasm and pain is almost always in the belly of the muscle, rather than in the origin.  The pain is caused by an incorrect setting of the nerve that controls the tension in the muscle.  Trigger points usually arise in muscles that are under great biomechanical stress, especially those subjected to some kind of injury or trauma.  Click here for picture.

 

Both stress points and trigger points show up as hard knots of painful tissue.  Both are treated basically the same—with direct pressure.

 

The application of direct pressure increases circulation to the “knot”, spasm or adhesion.  This increased circulation increases the exchange of metabolic waste for fresh oxygen and the spasm will begin to soften.

 

Pressure to stress points and trigger points can be applied with a single finger, a finger supported and braced by other fingers or by thumb pressure.  This pressure is held for a period of time without the alternating press/release I described for compression.

 

Trigger point pressure is usually held for 10-15 SECONDS and is then gradually released.  It can be repeated two or three times and you will gradually feel the knot soften and disperse.

 

Stress point pressure are held for much longer periods of time—sometimes as much as 5 to 10 MINUTES without interruption.

 

The amount of pressure used and length of time it is held must be determined by the reactions of the horse. 

 

Click link below to watch a video demonstrating Stress and Trigger Points

http://s755.photobucket.com/user/BLLindquist/media/StressTriggerDemoMovie1.mp4.html?sort=3&o=5

 

 

MODIFIED POSITIONAL RELEASE

          Positional release is another approach to releasing neuromuscular trigger points.

 

To use this technique, the sore point in a muscle is identified, light pressure is applied and the two ends of the muscle are brought closer together and GENTLY held in that position for 90 second to 2 minutes.  During this time, the tension in the trigger point releases.

 

I often use this technique when working on sore areas in a horse’s neck.  I will find the sore spot, put my fingers on it and then carefully bring the horse’s head and neck around toward its shoulder and hold it for a minute or so.  The head and neck have to turn without stiffening or tightening for this technique to work.  Do both sides.  Click here to see picture.

 

Riders use this technique frequently when, from the saddle, they induce a horse to bring its head and neck around to receive sugar or other treats.

 

This technique can also be used to get muscle releases behind the shoulders as well as in the neck.  In this case you would put your hand on the shoulder, bring the horse’s head around toward the rib cage just behind the shoulder.  This has to be done GENTLY.  If there is any stiffening or tightening, or the horse quickly takes his head back, the technique will not work.  Click here to see picture.

 

This technique is called “doubling” when done by the rider.

 

          Carrot stretches are another way of doing this modified positional release, but they only work correctly if the horse stretches his neck around and holds it in the stretched position.

 

          Sometimes when trying to bring the horse’s head around, the horse will start circling instead of standing still.  This is acceptable; it often helps to get the release.  Keep your hand on the neck or shoulder and circle with him.  After a few circles, the horse will stop and the area of tight muscles will have softened.

 

Click link below to watch a video demonstrating Positional Release

http://s755.photobucket.com/user/BLLindquist/media/PositionalReleaseDemoMovie1.mp4.html?sort=3&o=2

 

         

ROCKING

In human massage, most massage work is done with the person lying down.  In this way, muscles do not have to do the work of supporting and keeping the body up-right.  In equine massage, this is not the case and you will often be working to release tension in muscles that are actively supporting weight.

 

A number of the techniques that I use involve causing the horse to move and change its balance.  If you apply pressure just as the horse moves, it is possible to get the releases you want because you catch a muscle (or muscles) at a moment when the muscle is not static and weight bearing.

 

“Rocking” is a good technique for getting muscles to re-adjust and re-balance.

 

Some horses are stiff and “locked down” and it can be difficult to get any responses from them in your initial massage session.  These are usually the dense muscled horses that are very stiff, but not particularly sore.  In this case, rocking one body part against another can start the loosening process.  It is done by alternately pushing one area of the body and then another, causing the body to rock back and forth.

 

Using the flat of your hands, you would put one hand somewhere on the forehand, usually on the shoulder, but it could be on the lower neck or on the ribs behind the shoulder.  The other hand will be somewhere on the hindquarters, perhaps on the point of the hip, the area in front of the hip joint or on the flank.  You will need to experiment with your hand placement, because each horse is different.  With hands in place, alternate your pressure from hand to hand.  This rocking motion will encourage the horse to adjust its stance to a more relaxed, balanced posture.  Click here to see picture.

 

A very stiff horse will resist shifting its weight and may even push or lean back into your pressure, but gradually it will begin to soften and yield; then you can shift to other techniques that are more specific.

 

Rocking can also be a nice finishing move.  When a massage session is drawing to a close, the horse will give signs that it has relaxed physically and mentally.  It may chew, yawn, soften its eyes, lower its head and sigh.  At this point I like to do something that is soft and gentle.  Sometimes I’ll put one hand just behind the withers and the other on the loins (just in front of the croup bone) and do an alternate rocking that is so light and subtle as to be almost a light vibration.

 

If rocking is used early, your pressure will need to be fairly strong.  But if used as a finishing touch, the pressure will be very soft and the motion very gentle.

 

Rocking can also be used any time during a massage to test the loosening and balance to that point.  If the horse is still fairly stiff, he’ll either push against your pressure or move his feet.  If the body has released tension, the horse will sway with your pressure, but will not move his legs or change position.

 

          The techniques that I have described are only some of many that can be used when massaging a horse.  You will use a number of different ones in the course of a massage, choosing the ones that are most appropriate for whatever you are feeling in the horse’s body.  You may even develop your own techniques, different from the ones I’ve described.

 

The important thing is to help the horse’s body return to functioning in the way it was designed to function—its muscles contracting and extending smoothly to move joints and bones, and doing it efficiently and with the least resistance possible.

 

You must work within the horse’s tolerance level to achieve these results.

 

Click link below to watch a video demonstrating Rocking

http://s755.photobucket.com/user/BLLindquist/media/RockingDemoMovie1.mp4.html?sort=3&o=4

 

 

III. MASSAGE TOOLS

 

Some of the horses you’ll work on may be quite large, very heavy or very stiff.  To be effective in working on these types of horses, you must be able to get the muscles to respond to your touch.  Many people doing massage often use some types of “tools” to facilitate their work, allowing for deeper pressure while conserving their hands.

 

Whether you use tools or just your hands will depend on your size and strength.  I am small, so I find some simple tools helpful, especially on the big, heavy horses.

 

All of the tools I use are grooming tools, familiar to all horse owners.

 

Since my hands are small, I use some tools to increase the size of the area to which I can apply pressure.  My favorite is a small, stiff rubber curry comb with serrated edges that fits snuggly into the palm of my hand.  With this I can increase both the area and depth of pressure when doing effleurage, compression or cross-fiber friction.

 

Sometimes I’ll use one of the plastic curry combs that have numerous rows of “bristles”.

 

The other tool I frequently use is a small metal mane comb.  I use it for muscle combing and often when working on trigger points or stress points in the heavy horses.  It allows me to exert deep pressure in an area without putting undue pressure on my thumb and fingers.

 

These tools fit my hands and work for me.  If you choose to use tools, you will have to experiment with what’s comfortable and works for you.

 

I do recommend using ordinary horse grooming tools because they are designed for use on horses and won’t do unexpected damage to the skin or cause soreness.

 

I encourage you to show horse owners how to do some basic massage on their own horses by incorporating it into their regular grooming routines.

 

Some people use “activators” when doing trigger point or stress point work.  Activators are commonly used by chiropractors.  It is important that the pressure exerted by an activator be properly adjusted.  If the pressure is too light, it will be ineffective.  More often, the pressure will be too heavy and can cause soreness.  I DO NOT recommend using an activator.

 

One last thought on using tools.  They are most useful for heavy, tight muscles; the highly sensitive, sore horse won’t need much more than your fingertips.

 

If you do use something like a small rubber curry comb to increase the area you can cover, be cautious when applying pressure.

 

 

ASSIGNMENTS

 

     I would like written reports on all of the assignments listed below.  Please send report to bllindquist34@gmail.com

 

  1. If you have done massage on horses previous to taking this course, I would like you to do one or two massages using your old system and techniques.  Analyze what you have been doing.  Did you use just one or two techniques or a variety?  Were the techniques similar to the ones I described or different?

 

  1. Practice all of the techniques described in this lesson.  Practice on a variety of horses of different body types and muscle density.  Practice until you feel comfortable and competent with all of the techniques.

 

  1. Which techniques did you like the best?

 

  1. Did you find yourself using some techniques more on certain areas of the horse’s body?

 

  1. Which technique, or techniques, did you like best:

                    a. On the horse’s back 

                    b. On the horse’s neck 

                    c. On the muscles on top of the haunches. 

                    d. On the shoulders.

 

6.  Did you try any work on the belly line, groin or between the hind legs.  If so, which techniques worked best for you?

 

7.  How did your hands feel?  Did they feel like they lacked strength when you were doing the massage, or sore afterward?  Did you use one part of your hand more than others?

a.  heel

b.  thumb

c.  finger tips

d.  back of fist

 

8.  Did you try using some tools?  Describe which ones and how you felt about doing so.  Did you feel that it was more effective in some areas than just using your hands; if so, which ones?

 

 

 

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