COMMON PROBLEMS AND FIXES
So,
you are training with systematic progression, using positive reinforcement,
riding balanced and calmly, and using your arena to it's
maximum potential.
No
problems, right?
Don't
we wish?
For
some reason your horse still insists on having two left leads
. . bucking and running when he sees a
horse-eating butterfly . . . dropping his shoulders in both directions . . . or
just plain won't stop!
Sound
familiar?
Let's
find answers to these problems.
WHAT
TO DO IF:
He
just won't turn -- Remember your turn-on-the-forehand? Let's say he won't turn toward the left. Make him halt, hold your right hand firm
(outside rein) then put your left leg back into an active position and press
him on and off until he moves his haunches toward the right. That will point him in the left
direction. Do some squares (in both
directions) and move him away from your leg until he responds better and will
turn without you having to take the just described corrective action.
Be
sure you are turning your hips in the correct direction and not leaning. Keep your body centered.
He won't stop -- If you are trying to
halt, but your horse is creeping forward you need to keep holding your hands
steady, not pulling, but holding steady.
Then close your legs on his sides to send him into the bit. Your bottom must remain in the saddle and be
evenly weighted. Do not lean back. If you do this several times from the trot,
he should start responding more quickly.
Be sure he is giving you square halts.
He
won't stop when running
-- If he is running off with you and you cannot get a proper
halt, do a "double", the exercise we did in earlier lessons. You would be turning him into a circle and
gradually making it smaller and smaller.
If you try to make the circle too small, you risk the chance your horse
might slip to the ground. That is an
accident you do not want.
Bring
the horse’s head to the side and toward his tail. Your inside leg must push his rib cage over
so he can yield to the bend. As he slows
down, ask him again to halt correctly.
(Your legs must be active, but be sure you do not have a death-grip with
your calves or heels. Proper thigh
contact will prevent that.)
Once
you have stopped the horse, take time to figure out what caused him to run
off. Was he spooked,
fell on the forehand, back hollowed out?
You have tools now to fix many of these problems. You must go back to basics and use basics to
prevent further episodes.
Horses
do not have "hard mouths," but they can have "hard or hollow
backs" that can prevent them from being able to halt, especially when
moving rapidly.
He is spooky -- There are many levels
to “spookiness”. If he is young and/or
has not been exposed to many things or places, you need to gradually give him
exposure, with you on the ground, showing him that new things or places are not
going to harm him. Set up some
controlled experiments: a tarp on the ground with food on it as a reinforcement
that the tarp is good. (You will learn
all about positive and negative reinforcers in the
course Behavior Modification Techniques.)
Let the horse get used to seeing the tarp, then stepping near/on it
while feeding him, then shaking the tarp, etc.
Do this only to the degree that you can control the horse and make him
feel safe. Then present new, more
"frightening" sessions. Never
just freak him out -- do things methodically and carefully.
Take
your time. It may take weeks depending
on his level of excitement. Rewards and
soothing words from you can work wonders!
Add only a few elements at a time, being sure the horse understands he
can trust you and that you will keep him safe.
Do the same thing with scary places.
Lead or longe him near those places and work
your way closer only when he appears ready.
Keep rewards high and no punishment.
Feed is a confidence builder; it is security for horses, not just a
bribe. There is nothing wrong with bribes either. Be sure not to let yourself get excited; stay
calm and be the alpha horse, confident and a leader.
He
is spooky or intimidating on purpose -- This is the horse which has gotten away
with mischief by acting spooky. He is
usually an older guy who has been around the block and is bored or lazy. For instance, he will balk at going out the
gate that leads away from the barn, or will startle and bolt when going into
the field, or will jump at the black mat in the wash rack -- every time. He may associate these items and places with
something he considers unpleasant, such as leaving the barn or having a bath.
Horses
which behave this way can make a timid rider or handler afraid, and then the
rider or handler actually stops working with the with
the horse. That may be exactly what the
horse wants. In some instances everyone
in the barn will treat the horse as a "bad egg", which then fosters
more bad behavior until the horse becomes unmanageable. This guy needs to go back to some basics of
body movement and longeing while a calm,
knowledgeable person works him at each of his naughty places with creative ways
to keep his attention and reward any good behavior.
Then
try some new things with him to get his mind fresh.
Be
creative and remember to reward the correct behavior, after it has been
accomplished. Bribery is okay, but if it
is pre-rewarding an incorrect behavior, find another
way to do it. Use these ideas with the
sour or intimidating horse. You will
have to out-think him, easier said than done.
He jumps, bucks, or rears. What is causing this? Is it a physical problem? Does his back hurt? Is there anything not fitting him
correctly? What is out of place? Has he
been out to exercise? Is he overfed and
under worked or does not get enough playtime?
(Yes, horses need playtime.) Is
the footing bad? Is something new going
on that could be creating a disturbance?
Is it psychological? Did
something bad happen to him in that general area? What may be scaring him? Is your own attitude calm? Are you gripping and stiff? Whether you are on the
ground or on his back, your attitude and demeanor matters. Are you in a
bad mood or feeling grumpy and irritated?
Your horse can often reflect you mood back to you!
If
he is bucking, the worst thing you can do is pull on your reins to stop
him. He will usually
only buck higher. Put your leg on
him, try to keep his head up and send him forward. Keep your thighs on him and keep him moving
forward. Send him into a trot if
possible.
If
he is rearing, do NOT pull back on the rein or lean back. Lean forward enough to try to put his weight
on his forehand, with your face to one side of his neck, so he cannot hit you
with his head. Slightly open your rein
to one side and put your legs on him and send him forward, into a trot if
possible. Forward, forward,
forward. Never pull on the rein,
especially up or down, just flex slightly to the side if you have to, but kick
him if you need to, and send him forward.
Keep your thighs on and go forward.
He consistently gets the wrong lead --
Work on your bending. Be sure you are
not leaning and that you have even weight distribution in the saddle. He may have a physical problem which is
causing the horse to be reluctant to take a particular lead. Be sure you consider this possibility and
take remedial action.
Horses
do not take wrong leads or bends to be naughty.
Punishment is not a correction.
Go back to ground work exercises that would be pertinent and longe him over a ground pole, or a slightly raised
one. That will help him lift his back to
make the canter depart easier.
He
counter bends -- once again it is a rib cage problem.
Doing squares often helps get the horse's rib cage in the correct place. The problem is that the horse is pushing
against your inside leg because his rib cage is stuck to the inside and he needs
your help to loosen and supple him so he can move it to the outside. Remember, he should be supple enough to move
his rib cage in either direction, and to keep it centered to become
straight. Serpentines and figure-eights
are great to help this, as well as spiral-ins and outs. Use your seat and legs! Pulling him around with your hands will only
make him more crooked. Let your hips and
legs do their job. Your hands’ job is to
softly hold the neck straight, giving into the inside rein and holding the
outside rein in every direction change!
He is too fast -- Slow down YOUR tempo
and regulate your rhythm and have him follow you. Do not follow your horse's movement if you
are trying to change it. It is like a
dance. You need to lead, but follow when
he is doing the right job. Breathe and
keep control of your body so that you can tell him with your body to slow down
and relax. Use your voice softly and
exhale. If you tense up while doing
this, it will not be effective.
You
can also longe him over poles and use more voice to
change his tempo. I gave you some of my
favorite voice cues. Do not forget to
use them; when applied consistently, they are a great help. Mostly your body language speaks volumes to
your horse. Model the behavior you want
your horse to use. You set the tempo.
He drops his shoulder -- Use outside rein
and inside leg. Be sure that you are not
leaning. Is he supple through his rib
cage? Is he forward? You should be
getting the idea about now.
Problems can occur or re-occur for any
number of reasons. Be a detective and
try to find the root of the problem. Fix
the root. It is the easiest and most
effective way of resolving the problem.
The root of problems is in the
basics. Basics provide stability,
grounding and soundness. Just because
they are called "basics" does not mean that they are only for
beginners. The basics are everything! They are the alphabet for your novel, the
bricks for your building, the paint for your Mona
Lisa. As they are put together with
finesse and tact, a more beautiful result emerges. The refining of basics
allows the horse more and more freedom of movement and expression. Freedom of movement and expression create
strength, beauty and character, which bring us, ultimately, to the ART of
Dressage.
When harmony is orchestrated between
you and your horse and you both have the freedom to enjoy your time spent
together, understanding each other's thoughts and goals, there is nothing that
cannot be accomplished.
I
hope this course has helped you to develop your "eye" so that you can make
better observations and decisions about what your horse needs and how he is
really moving. You then should be able to utilize these methods and exercises
to bring him along to whatever level you feel you wish to accomplish, whether
it is a form of Trail Riding, Western Pleasure, Reining, Racing, Jumping, or
even Dressage.
I
want you to be able to discover the root of any problem and through the use of
these exercises and philosophies, to not only train your horse, but find a
better way to connect to his body, mind, and heart.
A truly great horse is said to be able
to communicate to you through all these areas.
Open up your mind and reach out with your heart and listen.