Preparation
for Competition
By Cathy Hanson
Copyright©2014
Lesson Three
Clipping, Clothes
and Equipment
Three Months Prior to Show
If your horse has never been clipped, it is
time to introduce him to the clippers.
Some horses will be very comfortable and some
will not like them at all. Some will be
quiet when clipping the legs and rebel when attempting the ears, or vice versa.
To begin, have clippers in good working
order. They should have sharp blades and
be well lubricated. Sharp blades will
cut easily and not pull the hair, a painful experience for your horse. When the clippers are lubricated they cut
better and last longer. Have a good extension cord that is longer enough to
allow you to easily work all around the horse.
A good routine to follow when
introducing clippers is to go SLOWLY.
Do not tie your
horse. Instead have a good halter and
lead on, and while holding the horse with one hand, use the other hand to show
the horse the “silent” clippers. Do not
turn the clippers on. Let the horse
smell the clippers, and rub them over the horse’s body in the same places that
the trimming will take place. (Once the
horse is very comfortable being clipped—this usually takes three or four
experiences—you may tie the horse.)
If the horse
shows no fear, the clippers can be turned on.
Don’t attempt to use them; just let the horse listen to them. If your horse becomes frightened, stay with
this procedure until the horse has overcome his fear and shows he cares little
about the sound of the clippers. Go thru
the same routine the following day and the following day until the horse
accepts the clippers. This is why this
process needs to begin four months away from the show.
Attempting to
clip an unwilling horse the day before the show will only result in a poor
clipping job, frustrated handler and a bad experience for the horse. Once a horse is afraid of clippers, or has
had a bad experience it will take a long time to regain the horse’s trust and
eventual willingness to be clipped.
Once the horse accepts the
running clippers, begin clipping the muzzle.
Keep the blade flat against the horse’s nose and use a smooth motion to
clip the whiskers.
In the
beginning don’t worry about getting each little whisker. For now, simply make it a pleasant experience
by getting done quickly a reward for the horse’s cooperation.
Clip the bridle
path at this time as well. Be sure to
hold the mane back so you only clip as much bridle path as you want. Hold the forelock as well. It is easy to inadvertently clip off the
forelock. Forelocks take a very long
time to grow back.
Check the style
of mane and forelock for your horse’s breed and or event. Use the appropriate length of bridle
path. Different breeds and events prefer
different lengths.
If your horse
has done well so far, it is a good time to stop and pat him for his good
behavior. It is always tempting to keep
going when the horse is being good. If
this is the first time to clip your horse, end on a good note and quit while
you are ahead.
Continue the
clipping lessons each day. If your horse
does not accept the clippers, simply keep repeating the parts he does
accept. Then attempt, without forcing
the issue, to work the clippers in areas to which he objects. Work with the horse on this just 5 to 10
minutes each day. Sometimes it takes a
while to gain trust. Being impatient
will not help to gain your horse’s trust.
There is of course the
occasional horse that just refuses to be clipped no matter how much patience
and time he has been given.
In this case a
safe effective approach must be taken.
Have a helper, as it is difficult to hold an unruly horse and clip at
the same time.
Use a chain
under the horse’s chin. Attach the chain by running the snap of the chain
through the side ring on the halter, under the chin and up the right side of
the horse’s head. Attach the snap to the
ring above the horse’s cheek. Tell the
horse “whoa” and use the chain with a small jerk to get your point across.
When using the
chain use it in a side to side motion, not a straight down jerk, as this will
only make the horse rear and possibly fall over. The horse needs to be respectful of your
requests. If he still refuses, apply a
lip chain. Loosen the chain under the
chin, lift the upper lip and lay the chain across the gum above the teeth. Slowly pull the slack out of the chain, so
that a firm and steady hold of the horse’s head is felt. Now try to clip areas the horse has
previously been difficult about.
If you have a
horse you feel is dangerous to you or himself and a lip chain is not working,
try a tranquilizer. A mild tranquilizer
(Acepromazine) can be purchased from your veterinarian. Use the prescribed amount the veterinarian
recommends under the horse’s tongue. A syringe is used without a needle for
this process. This will relax the horse
enough to get thru the clipping safely.
These last methods are used only after the horse has had ample
opportunity to become accustomed to clipping.
LEGS
It
is a good idea to have the horse well accustomed to the noise and movement of
the clippers before clipping the legs.
It is not safe to be close to the ground with a horse trying to get away
from something he does not like. If
possible have someone hold the horse while clipping the legs.
Always
have a hand on the horse’s leg when clipping. This way if the
horse kicks or moves quickly you will be protected.
Squat; don’t
get down on your knees to clip the legs.
When on your knees, you will not be able to move out of the way quickly
if needed.
Never, never, place your head under the
horse, or in front of, or
behind the legs, to see what you are
doing! In an instant the horse may
kick at a fly or just move away from you and kick you in the head.
As with the
first introduction to the clippers, don’t worry about a perfect clipping job on
the legs. It will be much easier to
perfect the clipping when the horse is relaxed and standing quietly, so use
this time to gain the horse’s trust.
If possible own
two pairs of clippers. Keep one pair in
the horse trailer so it will be available at shows if needed. The other pair you keep in your tack room.
I transfer my clippers from
the trailer to the tack room as they wear out; then purchase a new pair for the
trailer.
Years ago we
used large animal clippers to do all of the clipping. Today the large animal clippers are used
mostly for body shaving or hunter clips where large portions of the horse’s
body are shaved. There are smaller
clippers on the market that can handle the big jobs and are easier themselves
to handle. Whatever job you may have,
make sure you have the correct type of clippers.
The clippers
needed for horses will say “large animal” or something similar on the box.
We use a
clipper with an adjustable blade, as it is much faster than having to change
blades for the different areas to be clipped.
The adjustable blade changes from size 10 to size 40. The larger the number the closer the blade
will shave.
Use the size 10
blade on legs and under the throatlatch area.
The size 40 for a closer shave will be used on the whiskers, ears,
bridle path and in the chin groove and lower jaw area, as well as the eye
lashes.
If you have a
horse with long face hair, the size 10 will help to blend in the hairs for a
neater appearance.
Begin with the legs no more
than two days in advance of the show.
Use the size 10 blade. Remember,
always squat next to your horse and always keep one hand on their leg.
Begin on the back
of the lower leg, clipping against the hair.
Begin at the bulbs of the heel and work your way up toward the
ergot. Only clip against the hair on the
back of the pastern. (If the hair is a
white stocking or sock, you will clip against all the white hair.) The hairs around the ergot will be shaved
against and in a circle around the ergot. Take your time and use small strokes
with the clippers, pressing evenly, but not too hard against the horse.
The finished
look should be neat and blended.
Use the clippers
around the front of the horses hoof against the hairs next to the coronet
band. Move the clippers against these
hairs just enough to clip the hairs growing onto the hoof.
Next use the
clippers moving with the hair from the fetlock joint down to the coronet band
to blend and shorten. Turn the clippers
over, so that the blade is pointing toward the hoof. Use a softer stroke and move the clippers
down with the hair to the coronet band.
Blend the hairs on the entire pastern area. On the back of the leg, blend from the back
of the knee, catching some of the longer hairs on the tendons. Remember to blend in the direction the hair
is growing.
When clipping
socks, stockings or other white areas, clip against all the white hair for a
closer shave. The white will look
cleaner and if you use products to whiten the hair, the product will apply much
easier and more evenly to shorter hair.
When clipping against the white hair do not press to hard. Use consistent pressure with the clippers so
the cut is even.
THE HEAD
When clipping
the head begin with the whiskers. Use
the 40 size blade for a close shave.
Clip against the whisker hairs to get even closer.
To clip the
eyelashes below the eye, open the eyelid with one hand and slowly move the
clipper up toward the bottom eyelid. Do
not jab at the eye lashes as it is possible to accidentally poke the horse in
the eye. The only lashes to clip are the
long lashes on the bottom of the eye and a few long hairs on the top of the
horse’s eye.
Do not clip the horse’s eyelashes on
the upper eyelid; he needs those to protect his eyes.
To clip the bridle path hold
the mane back with one hand and clip toward the horse’s ears. Remember to hold the forelock with one hand
as well. Keep the clippers close to his
crest and run the clippers over the same area several times to achieve a close
clip.
To clip under the jaw of the
horse use a 10 or 15 size blade. Clip against the hair from the chin groove up
to the jaw. Then clip with the hair from
the under the jaw. Use the clippers
carefully to blend hairs on the outside of the jaw to the underside of the
jaw. When clipping this part always clip
with the hair.
DIFFERENT EVENTS
Different
events and breeds have different standards of clipping which are either
required or fashionable. Be sure to know
what is appropriate for horse’s breed and event. This information is seldom in a book, so ask
a professional in the field of your interest.
THE BODY
Body shaving will
require a sturdy, stronger type of clipper.
When body
clipping, try to complete the job in one day; two at the most. Remember the hair keeps growing, so if you
shave half the horse and then complete the other half a week later the hair
will not match.
When body
shaving, use a blade which will not cut too close. Shave against the hairs.
Use clippers
with good blades and which are well lubricated.
This will help prevent too many lines. Use fairly short strokes and even
pressure against the horse.
There are several different
types of clips which you may come across in different events or breeds. The clipping described previously is intended
for the western show horse.
Hunters and
dressage horses have a variety of clips used.
The full clip
is when the full coat
of hair is shaved.
The hunter clip is almost the same as a full clip
except the hair is left on the legs as high up as the elbows and thighs and a
saddle patch is left on the back. The
saddle patch protects the back from the saddle and the hair on the legs provide
warmth and protection from mud, thorns etc.
The blanket clip provides a blanket of hair for the
horse. Clip the hair from the neck,
belly and legs. Leave a blanket of hair over the horse for warmth.
For The trace clip, remove hair from
the belly to about one third of the way up the rib cage. Clip under the neck and halfway down the
forearms and thighs. The lower leg hair
is left.
Many of these
clips are popular in areas where the weather is cold and horses get turned out
in pastures for exercise or are simply working in cold and wet conditions.
CLOTHES
It is during this time period
you will want to do a wardrobe and equipment check.
If clothes are
needed, some things may need to be ordered and time is needed for fittings. The
same goes for equipment. Make a list of
the things needed and make sure you have everything on it. Now is the time to do your ordering so you’ll
be prepared when it is time to go to the show.
A very important part in
being prepared to show is being comfortable in your clothes. (Both you and your horse will want to “wear”
your show clothes several times during practice sessions. Getting use to clothes and feeling
comfortable is important for both horse and rider.)
If you are showing
in a showmanship class, practice with your hat on. Having a hat on makes a difference as to
where you stand in relationship to your horse or while moving around the
horse. Getting accustomed to looking up
with your hat on is a good thing to practice.
Many people do not put their hat on until just prior to that first
class, and then they are not able to focus on riding, because the hat is
distracting to them.
The same rules
apply for the horse. Now is the time to
start riding in the equipment the horse will be shown in. The horse needs to be familiar with his
equipment too.
The more things
you can make exactly the same for the horse when practicing, as when he will be
showing, the better.
This is the time to start to
put the show routine together.
Begin
practicing—four months in advance--what the horse will do in the show pen.
For example, if
riding western, ride the horse using a curb bit, ride with one hand on the
reins. Or ride in a smooth snaffle that
is the legal size to show in.
Ride a pattern
required in the show arena. This is a
great time to evaluate your strong areas as well as the weak areas. By determining the weak areas, a plan can be
developed for the next few months to strengthen those areas.
It is okay to
go back to training devices if needed to continue to train the horse. Training devices are helpful if they help to
create good habits and help the horse develop a better foundation. For example, a nose band is a great training
tool. It is not legal in western
classes, but very useful in training because it prevents the horse from evading
the bit by opening his mouth. This aids
the trainer in getting the full effect of the bit in the horse’s mouth. The horse does not learn to open his mouth
and develop a bad habit. All the horse
knows is he never opens his mouth. So
when the noseband comes off the habit is already instilled.
Some training
devices can be helpful if used in a limited fashion. Many trainers like to use many different
devices.
I prefer to use
as few as possible. Use a training
device to aid in the training – but don’t waste time making sure the horse can
perform in a pair of draw reins. Draw
reins used occasionally can be helpful, but if the horse is constantly trained
with draw reins, he’ll be confused when they are removed and new style of
riding is instituted.
The same goes
for riding a horse in a curb with two hands.
This technique can be useful, but the horse must learn to be completely
comfortable and responsive to the communication when the reins are in one hand.
It is an absolute necessity to teach
the horse the exact communication he will need to know when he is showing.
Using two hands
and a direct rein to maneuver the horse, or very low hands to lower the head,
teaches the horse to understand that communication. And he will learn it well. So don’t expect the horse to understand a
different set of cues used only on show days—that is totally unfair to the
horse and completely unrealistic.
The majority of
practice and training should be in the manner the horse will be shown. Ride at home as you would ride at a show, and
ride at the show as you would ride at home.
That is the only way the horse can truly learn his job.
Whatever is
practiced most is what the horse will remember best.